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Help finding magneto for craftsman rife on mower

#1

305

305

Hi.
I can't figure out what magneto I need for my craftsman yts3000 ride on mower.
Model 917.289140
21hp briggs platinum xrd engine #143.008501

I believe it's made by Tecumseh but there are no labels saying so. The research I've done trying to find the correct part and part number has only led to more confusion. There are so many out there I have no clue what to order.

As always thank you. The info I've gotten from you pros who know way more than me has been invaluable.


#2

I

ILENGINE

The confusion is you are claiming to have a Briggs engine but the 143.008501 is a Tecumseh number not Briggs. If you actually have the Briggs engine the model type and code of the engine should be stamped into the valve cover. Sears claims that mower used the 331877-1449-G1 but need to confirm.

If everything above checks out then I am assuming that your need the ignition module since you have lost spark Part number 799650 supercede to 595304


#3

305

305

I haven't lost spark. I charge the battery and it dies in about a day. The thing is just not charging. The engine has the briggs label on it but it's built by Tecumseh. Here's a pic of the info on the mower and the top of the engine.
Thanks for the reply.
Oh. It's a 21hp if that helps

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#4

305

305

I'm sorry. I should have added this info

Craftsman lawn tractor
Yts 3000
Model # 917.289140
540cc, 21hp briggs platinum xrd Engine # 143.008501


#5

305

305

The last info with the model and engine number came from under the seat. I don't have a picture of that. I can get one tomorrow if needed.
Thank you again.


#6

StarTech

StarTech

You definitely have a Briggs and not a Tecumseh engine. The 143.008501 is a horizontal shaft Tecumseh HM85-155851B and it would not even fit in place of the vertical shaft Briggs.

As IL said look on the rocker cover (refer to as a valve cover) for the model, type, and date code.


#7

305

305

I will take a look as soon as I get to my shop and post what the valve cover says.

The sticker under the seat with the numbers I gave you was there when I bought it. I'm guessing some one other than the factory put it on to mess with who ever owned it or worked on it next.

Thank you for helping me figure this out. I would never get this straight without your help.


#8

305

305

So here is what I think the valve cover says


#9

305

305

Model: 331877 or l33L877
Type code1449 61 100309zd

I don't think it needs a magneto. I put the meter on it while running and it's charging like it should. The issue is the battery will loose cranking amps after a couple of days and it won't start the mower unless I jump or recharge it. The battery is 3 months old but it's seen alot of cranking the starter with a no start condition. That has been fixed. Question.

Could I have killed the battery by trying to start it when it won't start?
Could it be solenoid and how do I test the solenoid?


When the battery is fully charged the mower starts up on the second or third cycle. What am I missing here?


#10

I

ILENGINE

If it takes 2-3 cycles to start I would be checking to make sure the choke is fully closing. If the engine cranks then nothing wrong with the solenoid. Now as far as the battery. Excessive cranking could of damaged the battery but you could also have an issue with the battery being faulty and self discharging or you could have a parasitic load that is draining the battery. Since you say it is charging being over 13 volts then after using the mower disconnect the negative battery terminal. And the next time you want to start it reconnect and see what happens. If it is stilled charged then I would be doing further electric checks on the mower to find the short. If the battery is dead after being disconnected then you have our answer about the battery being faulty.


#11

305

305

That makes perfect sense. I will disconnect the ground after use over the next few days and see what happens.

I was thinking it was not charging at first because the head lights would get bright or dim depending on the engine rpm. Then I realized that is how it works with this type of charging system. I had a mini-bike me and my father built when I was a kid and it had a briggs and the head light would do the exact same thing especially when the magneto gap was not right.

Thank you for the help. I will report back Monday and let you know what I found.


#12

I

ILENGINE

From one of your pictures it looks like that engine has the 3/5 charging system. 3 amp half wave unregulated to DC and 5 amp AC for headlights.


#13

305

305

Honestly I don't know enough about the mower to confirm if it's 3/5 charging system. I can say the headlight bulbs are good from what my multimeter says but they do not turn on. There is one brown wire that is always hot and there are 2 black wires that are hot or at 0v depending on the position of the headlight switch. The 2 black wire are connected together. If I seperate them the starter won't turn. When they are connected together the mower starts fine. The brown wire isn't connected to anything.


#14

305

305

I forgot to mention you were totally correct about the choke not closing all the way. I fixed that and it starts right up until the battery discharges.


#15

L

LMPPLUS

Question, have checked the voltage coming out of the stator / alternator and out of the voltage regulator?


#16

F

Freddie21

You could also run the battery to an auto supply store when it's fully charged for a free test.


#17

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

305 said:
Hi.
I can't figure out what magneto I need for my craftsman yts3000 ride on mower.
Model 917.289140
21hp briggs platinum xrd engine #143.008501

I believe it's made by Tecumseh but there are no labels saying so. The research I've done trying to find the correct part and part number has only led to more confusion. There are so many out there I have no clue what to order.

As always thank you. The info I've gotten from you pros who know way more than me has been invaluable.
Click to expand...
143.008501 HM85-155851B Tecumseh
the conversion can be found on my website page: http://vrr.dyndns.biz/Docs/Repair/linecard.html under sears.


#18

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

305 said:
Model: 331877 or l33L877
Type code1449 61 100309zd

I don't think it needs a magneto. I put the meter on it while running and it's charging like it should. The issue is the battery will loose cranking amps after a couple of days and it won't start the mower unless I jump or recharge it. The battery is 3 months old but it's seen alot of cranking the starter with a no start condition. That has been fixed. Question.

Could I have killed the battery by trying to start it when it won't start?
Could it be solenoid and how do I test the solenoid?


When the battery is fully charged the mower starts up on the second or third cycle. What am I missing here?
Click to expand...
Battery, cables, starter or valve adjustment. If valves have not been adjusted and have worn .002" loser than original, the decompression is not going to work, the starter and battery cannot withstand the additional compression and it acts like battery or starter or discharge more than can charge on a short run time.


#19

W

wheelie

Just to throw this in.. On my 21 horse Briggs I have lost the compression release on the cam.. When I have a battery charger on the battery or have had one on in the last 12 hours approx. or less it starts fine.. After setting with no charging for more than the 12 approx. hours there is enough battery drain off (top charge) that the engine will turn over slow and usually hang (lock up) at the decompression stroke.. It took many battery changes including known good batteries from other equipment and a couple new batteries and then an accidental reading explaining about the compression release issue. I have been running said mower for a couple years or so this way but if I try to start it after the battery has set without a charger on it for much time I have to be prepared to take my wrench and turn the crank backwards.. It will start almost every time then with same said battery.


#20

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

wheelie said:
Just to throw this in.. On my 21 horse Briggs I have lost the compression release on the cam.. When I have a battery charger on the battery or have had one on in the last 12 hours approx. or less it starts fine.. After setting with no charging for more than the 12 approx. hours there is enough battery drain off (top charge) that the engine will turn over slow and usually hang (lock up) at the decompression stroke.. It took many battery changes including known good batteries from other equipment and a couple new batteries and then an accidental reading explaining about the compression release issue. I have been running said mower for a couple years or so this way but if I try to start it after the battery has set without a charger on it for much time I have to be prepared to take my wrench and turn the crank backwards.. It will start almost every time then with same said battery.
Click to expand...

What you describe is a very common outcome. The starter doing more than designed to do, instead of 80-100 amps is cranking slow and less spark as a result and drawing 200-300 amps. It leads every one to think it is a failing starter. Eventually it is and replaced, but does not solve the problem. This is often after a battery or two. I do have to add that there are two types of decompression cams, a third lobe before TDC that lifts the valve slightly and at cranking speed relieves compression. A second design has a centrifugal attachment to one cam lobe which can fail. Both require proper valve adjustment, but when that is done and the mechanical decompression has failed, a new cam is required.


#21

W

wheelie

Yes.. I just posted this as the OP might be having this problem rather than an electrical problem..


#22

305

305

Hi. Sorry I haven't added anything to this for a while. I has a medical emergency that kept me tied up until now.

It turns out the problem was the brand new battery I bought for it was defective. The top was not sealed correctly and was leaking. I didn't figure this out until I went to return it because it kept looking charge. When I took it out of my truck my shirt got wet and noticed the leak. I got a new battery and the mower is fine. Battery charges, ir starts a runs perfect.

Thanks for all your help. I was about to throw a bunch of parts at it but with the help I was able to test and determine that the parts I was about to replace were fine.


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