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Hello All! I need some help here. I've got a 30" Snapper RER that has a B&S 287707-0225-01 (14.5hp) OHV engine on it. I bought it second-hand off FB and have been 'overhauling' it the past month or so. Yesterday, I just had gotten to the point where I could fire it up and get the carb adjusted, as it did not idle or respond to throttle controls well. During the last crank, the engine turned over and revved up very high and a metallic 'clank' or 'bang' noise occurred and the engine locked up. I can only turn the shaft a little by hand and it is blocked in both directions. I am needing to know you guys' thoughts on what this could have been and if my engine is beyond hope for being repaired. I'd really like to keep the engine, if at all possible. FYI, the engine and mower did run and operate fully when I purchased it. It just needed alot of TLC to run efficiently. Any and all help, suggestions, and comments are appreciated. Attached is a pic of the engine on the mower.

Sounds like a thrown rod or crankshaft issue. Probably be fine with a new piston and rings, crank and rod. Don't get overwhelmed there. I think you can get all those fresh parts for less than a good steak dinner. Much cheaper than buying a new engine for sure. That should have a cast iron cylinder liner in it. Shouldn't have hurt that part of it. You will have to open it up and investigate the carnage.

We want PICTURES please of the inside.

slomo

Probably broke the rod. If you are lucky it did not break the piston skirt and all you need it a new rod. Also check the weights on the govenor gear. Around 6000 rpm they break off the gear. If the engine had oil in it the crank is probably OK. Check the block carefully for any cracks where a piece of rod may have hit it.

Did you preform a static governor adjustment? That may be why you had little to no throttle control and it revved so high.
Crankshafts and Pistons and rings are NOT available for CERTAIN date codes....

Scrubcadet10 said:

Did you preform a static governor adjustment? That may be why you had little to no throttle control and it revved so high.
Crankshafts and Pistons and rings are NOT available for CERTAIN date codes....

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I did make sure that the governor was not locking up and moving freely. I also tightened both the idle speed screw and air/fuel mixture screw down all the way and backed them off 1 1/2 turns so I had a proper starting point. Connections are good and spring is still tight on the carb/governor linkage. Is there anything else that you'd recommend I do before the next time I'm able to get it running?

So found instructions on how to perform a static governor adjustment on https://www.briggsracing.com/sites/default/files/instructions-for-setting-mechanical-govenor.pdf

Is this what you were referring to Scrubcadet10?

You need to open the engine up and see what is broken inside. Pictures of everything please.

slomo

christopher425 said:

I did make sure that the governor was not locking up and moving freely. I also tightened both the idle speed screw and air/fuel mixture screw down all the way and backed them off 1 1/2 turns so I had a proper starting point. Connections are good and spring is still tight on the carb/governor linkage. Is there anything else that you'd recommend I do before the next time I'm able to get it running?

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the governor moves freely when in and out of adjustment.... The link you posted is the procedure i talked about... you need to open it now and see what broke.

Alright, so I had a little time to work on it this evening before having to focus on the fam. I've taken about half of the inner workings out. I can't tell anything super obvious other than the bottom of the rod appears to be more loose than it should (like it got knocked ajar). Good news is I haven't found any pieces floating around. The bottom of the crankcase has this little piece on it that looks random. It's the shiny washer-type piece that stands out. Kind of looks like it may be a 'seat' to secure things when the crank case is tightened. Do any of you guys know what it is? I'll attach some pics and then get the rest put up when I finish taking it apart tomorrow. Thanks so much for the feedback so far!

Can you turn the engine by hand a couple revolutions?

No, can only turn it like 1/10th of a rotation either way and then it just comes to a halt.

Syncro balance weights may be seizing on the crank. You need to take it apart and see what is binding or hitting.

Get some 3N1 oil and Gauss pads. That Fetzer valve is filthy.

slomo

I think the turboencabulator is bad.

Is the rod still connected to the piston? in the bottom left pic, it looks like i see the wrist pin hole in the connecting rod.

Also, i wonder if a valve may have gotten bent, and stuck down into the cylinder?

Scrubcadet10 said:

Also, i wonder if a valve may have gotten bent, and stuck down into the cylinder?

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Think I see some carnage on that tappet face furthest from the camera. Rod looks bent down as well. Right there where you put the green arrow. Might be the picture though.

slomo

Welp fellas, I've figured out the source of the 'locking up'. One of the valves (exhaust I think) was just chilling there when I removed the cylinder head. You can see in the pic of the rockers where the end of it snapped off and allowed it to fall on top of the piston. I still have to remove the crankshaft and inspect the piston, connecting rod, etc. My question to all of you that know more about this than me is: does my piston look salvageable based on the pics? Is that little notch at the edge supposed to be on the top of the piston? Please give me your feedback/advice here for next steps.

Update* got the piston out. I think it's salvageable. The connecting rod had two small pieces chipped of at the base. It's hopefully looking like I can get out of this repair with relatively inexpensive costs. What's your thoughts guys?

Interesting!. Did the valve just lose the keeper or did the end of the valve break at the keeper groove? I would use the other valve to check and make sure the valve guide isn't fubar'd. I would clean and inspect the piston for cracks. I would replace the valve and rod and FIX THE GOVENOR.

Hammermechanicman said:

Interesting!. Did the valve just lose the keeper or did the end of the valve break at the keeper groove? I would use the other valve to check and make sure the valve guide isn't fubar'd. I would clean and inspect the piston for cracks. I would replace the valve and rod and FIX THE GOVENOR.

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Yeah, the valve broke at the keeper groove. The valve guide looks ok and so does the piston. Will be doing more inspecting this weekend. Did you mean to replace the governor when you said to "fix it?" Also, where do all you guys get your parts for things like this? Some of them have been outdated, replaced by others, etc. and I've found a couple of shops that are pretty proud of their products.

Ebay and Briggs mostly.

slomo

PartsTree and shop.briggsandstratton.com

I've used this place for some pretty obscure parts over the years.

christopher425 said:

Yeah, the valve broke at the keeper groove. The valve guide looks ok and so does the piston. Will be doing more inspecting this weekend. Did you mean to replace the governor when you said to "fix it?" Also, where do all you guys get your parts for things like this? Some of them have been outdated, replaced by others, etc. and I've found a couple of shops that are pretty proud of their products.

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If the weights on the govenor gear are ok then the governor needs to be adjusted and the theottle linkage checked. If the govenor is working properly the engine won't over rev.

Found where the valve rod slammed into the head and left a nice impression on the underside. Do you guys think the head needs to be replaced?