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So, first of all, thank you - this forum has helped me get started in the right direction (before joining) and we appreciate all the experience and advice of the members.
I've been trying to run down a problem where the engine dies when engaging the blades / PTO. I CAN engage the blades IF I turn the PTO on quickly, then off, then on, off, on.. giving the engine a chance to get them spinning.

Another issue we had that we thought was causing this blade engagement issue, and I believe fixed, was the bolt on the clutch fell out, allowing the clutch to spin which in turn broke the wires connected to the clutch. So, I replaced the bolt, reconnected the wires and tested.. the blades engaged fine, for a while.. then, when PTO was pulled, engine would die (unless I turn the PTO on, off, on, off, on.. )

Here is what I have tested:
PTO Switch and relays:
They all seem to be good, with continuity where needed, and in the right positions. A thread on here suggested it was the PTO switch so I just replaced it.. but no difference.
I also replaced the relays, just because I had them on hand and it's cheap insurance against any of them being bad.

Seat Safety Switch seems to be good (engine on, brake on, get off seat = engine stays running. engine one, brake off or blades engaged, get off seat = engine stops)
* I have a new seat switch that I was going to install, however it looks like the entire seat mechanism has to be removed to get to it,. wasn't prepared for it the day I replaced the PTO switch

TO BE TESTED:
I just read on here to test the governor on the engine.. will be testing that today.

Any other suggestions or tips on getting to the seat switch more readily would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks again for all the effort and experience you guys offer to the rest of us.

Sounds more like the v-twin engine is giving problems of not running on one cylinder to me.

StarTech said:

Sounds more like the v-twin engine is giving problems of not running on one cylinder to me.

Click to expand...

Excellent, thank you, I'll check for spark, air/fuel and see where that leads. Also going to check the governor today and make sure it's working properly.

Ok, I checked the plugs, they're good and have spark.

So, I decided, while the seat/cover was lifted to bypass the seat switch.. fired it up, and blades engage in any throttle position, from idle to full power.. so, looks like I need to get this seat switch swapped out. I've tried to find diagrams or videos for a Gravely 260z seat switch replacement but no luck.. and looking at it, it looks like the whole seat might need to be torn down into components (it's the soft ride seat)..


Anyone have any experience replacing the seat switch on a 260z ???

Week coil pack. Giving enough spark to run but not enough under load.

Dirty or bad plugs?

Coil pack, hadn't even considered it... I'll have to see what it takes to test it and follow up.

Here are what the plugs looks like. There was some oil-ish stuff on the threads, almost like the tech that changed them last used motor oil to lube them!!
Overall, they looked decent to me..

Ugh, that last shop that worked on it was, well, let's just say, not that competent which is why I am running this stuff down myself.

Plugs don't look too bad. Any time I pull a plug I always run some Emory Cloth or sand paper between the gap and blow off or spray with carb/ brake cleaner. May as well just to be sure.

I have no idea how to test coil pack strength. I just replace if I suspect it may be weak. If it doesn't fix it I keep them as spares.

Keep us posted

If you find the problem be sure to update.