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Governor adjustment Lawn Boy 10323 Duraforce 6.5

#1

S

stilllearning6

Even after reading the manual regarding the governor spring, I fail to see how to adjust the collar/spring clockwise ( tighter) to increase the RPM.
I can touch the white collar and see the gear teeth on it.
I disconnected the spring several times when I had the carb off.
Now that the carb is back on and the engine is running, I can se that the air vane / spring governor is being overpowered by the flywheel breeze and results in very low RPM .

What steps are required to adjust the collar a few clicks tighter/ more spring tension?
Does the entire carb come off again to do an adjustment?


#2

impalass

impalass

stilllearning6 said:
Even after reading the manual regarding the governor spring, I fail to see how to adjust the collar/spring clockwise ( tighter) to increase the RPM.
I can touch the white collar and see the gear teeth on it.
I disconnected the spring several times when I had the carb off.
Now that the carb is back on and the engine is running, I can se that the air vane / spring governor is being overpowered by the flywheel breeze and results in very low RPM .

What steps are required to adjust the collar a few clicks tighter/ more spring tension?
Does the entire carb come off again to do an adjustment?
Click to expand...
You don't have to remove the carb if you can reach the collar.
With the engine stopped rotate the collar clockwise to increase the RPM.


#3

S

stilllearning6

My issue is that when I put my finger on the collar to rotate it counterclockwise to tighten the spring tension , I get no tightening.
The entire mechanism spins as if the flywheel were blowing hi speed air onto the air vane and the air vane/ collar spins as a solid unit.
I want to keep the air vane stationary as I tighten the collar spring.
What is the trick to do that ?


#4

S

stilllearning6

OK - I got 3 clicks tighter by ripping apart the skin on my fingertip and shoving extremely hard to rotate collar clockwise.
Don't know why the force required to rotate the white rotate collar was so tremendous.
I plan to fire it up and keep increasing the spring tension until I get a high enough rpm - no tach to measure the manual spec RPM of 2900 +/- 300 RPM at high speed. Hope this cures all.

Update : LB revs high enough after 5 clicks, though now see a drip from fuel bowl gasket.
Only took fuel bowl apart 5 times this month.
No wonder the gasket is dripping.
Drip just appeared for first time today.
I have learned to remove carb in 5 minutes , reassembly with 2 long bolts/gaskets /heat shield/governor takes 5 hours.


#5

impalass

impalass

stilllearning6 said:
OK - I got 3 clicks tighter by ripping apart the skin on my fingertip and shoving extremely hard to rotate collar clockwise.
Don't know why the force required to rotate the white rotate collar was so tremendous.
I plan to fire it up and keep increasing the spring tension until I get a high enough rpm - no tach to measure the manual spec RPM of 2900 +/- 300 RPM at high speed. Hope this cures all.

Update : LB revs high enough after 5 clicks, though now see a drip from fuel bowl gasket.
Only took fuel bowl apart 5 times this month.
No wonder the gasket is dripping.
Drip just appeared for first time today.
I have learned to remove carb in 5 minutes , reassembly with 2 long bolts/gaskets /heat shield/governor takes 5 hours.
Click to expand...
I use 1 finger on each hand to stop the vane from moving then i rotate the collar. Very good now you are learning the hard way. You can buy a cheap tach from china. Why does it take 5 hours to reinstall?


#6

B

bjl8691

Save the headache and spend 50 on a brand new carb on ebay I did that on one of my duraforces I got tired of dickin with it trying to save it so I just got a new one and kept the old one for parts


#7

J

JohnBoy1

On the 5 I have I have put 2 governor springs on them. With the bigger pilot and and two springs I add two more clicks to the spring tension and they pure like a very agry lion and have zero surge and react smoother to load changes.


#8

S

stilllearning6

Thank you all.
LB now fires up with one half pull and revs strong, not surging anymore.
Replaced fuel bowl gasket to resolve the leak .
Took several attempts to tune in the RPM with the governor air vane.
Hope that there are no more updates by me .


#9

P

Phototone

It is vastly easier to replace the carb onto the engine block if you remove the shrouds on top, including the one covering the flywheel. You can then see what you are doing.


#10

C

cgallery

One trick I will add to this is, when I remove the Duraforce carb, I add a couple of 1/4-20 (I think they're 1/4-20, but they could be 5/16-18, I had some on-hand and use them) wingnuts onto the screws and finger tighten them, to keep the entire thing (including the heat shield) assembled as a single unit.

For most of the work I've done (cleaning, replacing a spring, etc.) I can do it with the unit screwed together like this.

When I'm done, I just remove the nuts and squeeze the unit together with my fingers while I reattach the screws.


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