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I have a Trail Blazer Sickle Bar Mower with a Briggs 4 hp engine. I"ve had it for years but really never used it very much. I decided to bring it to life recently.
I found that the gas tank with carb attached was the main problem for starting and running. So I bought a used carb and tank with a bulb primer .
I have the engine running now, but the governor with springs is the problem that I have now for control of the speed.
My govenor control arm is on the opposite side of where all the other pictures show it to be. So the usual two spring attachment isn't going to work at all.
I have a single arm that attaches to control arm buried inside the covers. It looks like it was just pushed into a plastic fork like holder. It won't reach the carb throttle set up because it is two short.
This engine is a verticle drive for the sickle and it has another shaft (geared) for the wheel drive. I've never seen this kind of a set up before.
The simplest thing that I can think of doing (and it won't be simple) is to make another connecting arm that is longer to reach the throttle bracket and then connect some spring set up for control.
I've just about given up on this project but thought I would write for any comments on it.
I've written Briggs about a new engine but I'm pretty sure I won't get the ansewer that I need.
This is a beautiful machine and practically new. I'd have to give up on it.

Please post the model, type and code numbers for the engine so we know which one of the hundred different Briggs engines you have.

For what it's worth.
Model is 114987 type 0185 sn#90060504
4 hp I/C

I found some small rods that I might bend to shape what I need for this project. It'll take a couple of days before I know if they' ll work.

Here’s a parts breakdown of your engine and a service manual, which may help you out. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/E...210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

Thanks for sending me the parts break down.
However, my problem is more complicated then just finding or ordering parts not available anymore.
I am relying on the pieces of rods that I have coming in that I found. I'm going to bend them to fit the updated carb/tank as

Rivets said:

Here’s a parts breakdown of your engine and a service manual, which may help you out. http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/E...210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment

Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.

www.partstree.com

Click to expand...

I am going to have to experiment with the rod for the govenor to carb connection
I cannot find anything that shows how this little rod is connected to the governor arm .
Like I said, the governor arm is on the opposite side of the engine. That makes the connection much longer from the arm to the carb.

I can still take apart the old carb/tank and try to clean it out. But I can't find gaskets for the old style that I have . They aren't the same as the ones that have the squeeze bulb on them.

Just for the heck of it.
If you have one of these machine.
You must pull the engine to get at the necessary areas to work on this engine. The covers for the electric motor and others are buried and not accessable until you remove the engine.
Since I was having so much trouble trying to get to the govenor arm, I went ahead a broke the covers off. Since then I see what was holding the recoil from coming off.
Nice machine but was a terrible design to access.

Those original carb were easy to repair. Most common problem was a bad pump diaphragm Or possibly a warped tank. I’ve found that if I replaced the diaphragm and then sealed the carb to tank with a silicone sealant I could bring them back to life. Diaphragm parts number is 391643 and no gasket is needed.

I fell to the "it looks the same" thing. The tank/carb unit is not the same for all. They appearently made a replacement unit for the carb/tank at one time or the other. They replaced with a primer bulb unit. AT first glanced it looks just like the original. It's not.
The major problem is the connection from the govenor arm to the carb . Even the support braket which connects to the three head bolts is wrong. It looks like it would work, but the holes don't alien. I know because when I tried connecting the new bracket (with hole off the mark) I quickly broke off a part of the cylinder head. In addition, the connections from the carb to the link to the goveneror aren't even close.. This is where I'm trying to make something that will reach.

Never have been able to solve the problem and make it work with the govenor control. So, I did the next best thing.
I eliminated the govenor . I made my own linkage to the carb from the speed control cable. Looks like crap but it works.
I'm about to go out and start sickling some tall weeds.
Speed will be controlled by the hand trottle.
I 'll use this one time and then get rid of it.