Gears grind in reverse

[rpriester]

I am having trouble with my Craftsman LT2000 Lawn Tractor. It has a cvt transaxle with just forward and reverse, not hydrostatic. It started off with jerking when going up and down hills. It’s like it can’t handle the weight of the tractor and the gears will strip and then catch. I am still having that problem, but I am also having problems now with the gears grinding in reverse. It just sits and grinds in reverse. Do you think the shift linkage need adjusted? How do you adjust the linkage? Or, do you think it could be something worse? worse?

 

[ILENGINE]

You could try adjusting the linkage to where it is setting in the neutral detent position and see what happens. If it still jumps and jerks going forward than the shift collar and forward gear and at this point the reverse gear are worn and would need to be replaced.

 

[rpriester]

You could try adjusting the linkage to where it is setting in the neutral detent position and see what happens. If it still jumps and jerks going forward than the shift collar and forward gear and at this point the reverse gear are worn and would need to be replaced.

You could try adjusting the linkage to where it is setting in the neutral detent position and see what happens. If it still jumps and jerks going forward than the shift collar and forward gear and at this point the reverse gear are worn and would need to be replaced.

I’m not sure how to do that. I looked online how to adjust the linkage but couldn’t find anything. Can you describe what to do? Thanks.

 

[StarTech]

As IL suggests the driveshaft assembly inside the transaxle needs replacing as the two bevel gears and the clutch dog is heavily worn.

 

[ILENGINE]

I’m not sure how to do that. I looked online how to adjust the linkage but couldn’t find anything. Can you describe what to do? Thanks.

Some of the shift linkages has a threaded end where it screws into a barrel end that is connected to shift arm on the side of the frame where you could remove the hair pin clip on the transmission end and turn the rod to adjust the linkage length. You may not have that adjustable rod because some used a fixed length rod. So the next step is as I suggested and given more information by Startech., but something else to check is to make sure the shift fork isn't bent while you are replacing the gears. It will get bent by customers trying to force it into gear instead of gently trying to shift into gear while slowly letting out on the clutch. Think of the shifting gears inside as trying to mate to half moon pieces together because the is what you are doing.

 

[rpriester]

Some of the shift linkages has a threaded end where it screws into a barrel end that is connected to shift arm on the side of the frame where you could remove the hair pin clip on the transmission end and turn the rod to adjust the linkage length. You may not have that adjustable rod because some used a fixed length rod. So the next step is as I suggested and given more information by Startech., but something else to check is to make sure the shift fork isn't bent while you are replacing the gears. It will get bent by customers trying to force it into gear instead of gently trying to shift into gear while slowly letting out on the clutch. Think of the shifting gears inside as trying to mate to half moon pieces together because the is what you are doing.

It does look bent.

 

[StarTech]

The shift is internal to the transaxle. What I seen is wear on hte clutch (shift collar) and the matching gear teeth. Depending the age of the transaxle it will have either a multi tooth set-up or a three step setup. THe multi0tooth tends to wear more but wear becasue users dont stop moving before in and out gear grinding the gears.

Here is picture of both both setups and they can swapped as a set so most MTD will send the newer three step version as replacement for the multi-tooth version. Also include is image of the shaft fork.