Front wheel bearing on LT1500

[nbpt100]

I recently acquired a Craftsman LT1500 lawn tractor that was made by MTD. The front wheel bearing are plastic and I am asking if anyone knows if there is a bronze bearing option.?

This is the currently part :

MTD 741-0660A Flange Bearing GENUINE 694157497785 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MTD 741-0660A Flange Bearing GENUINE at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Share the part number if you have one.
Thanks

 

[StarTech]

I would stick those OEM bushings as mowers with bushing tends to eat up the spindle shafts when they start going bad requiring the spindle to be replaced too.

.76 ID (slightly over 3/4") 15/16 OD Wall thickness 5/64" Flange OD 1-15/64"

The closest is McMaster-Carr PN 2938T707. These are hi load 863 Iron-Copper Bearings or 6338K578 841 Bearing Bronze Bearings Note this also only rated for 60 rpm under heavy loads.

You may have to ream the ID out a little as these are 0.752" instead 0.760"

 

[nbpt100]

I would stick those OEM bushings as mowers with bushing tends to eat up the spindle shafts when they start going bad requiring the spindle to be replaced too.

.76 ID (slightly over 3/4") 15/16 OD Wall thickness 5/64" Flange OD 1-15/64"

The closest is McMaster-Carr PN 2938T707. These are hi load 863 Iron-Copper Bearings or 6338K578 841 Bearing Bronze Bearings Note this also only rated for 60 rpm under heavy loads.

You may have to ream the ID out a little as these are 0.752" instead 0.760"

Thanks, Since the old ones were pretty badly damaged I really could not get a decent measuremt. I tighter fit on the shaft is desirable. That load rating has to be better than the plastic ones. The replacement ones are cheap enough but they will not last long. Some are 3D printed.
Due to the previous owner not paying attention the pivot arm axle needs to be replaced along with one axle assy. As you described is what happened and even worse. I found a used assy that I may buy but I want to replace the bearings with new so i do not have to do this again for a long time.

Have you actually use these Iron Copper Bearings from Mcmaster?

On the same machine the spindles are toast. I should probably start a new thread but wondering if the aftermarket spiindles with grease fittings are worth it. I have read they are not often assembled correclty by removing the inner seals on the ball bearings, therefore the grease never gets to where it needs to be.

 

[StarTech]

Not these particular flange bearing but I have use the none flange versions which I had machined to fit some cast axles. But of course these axle never has bushings in the first place. Reamed the axle journals and install the modified bushings

Unless the deck spindle housings damage I just replace the bearings after I repack them with EP2 grease, what come with is lousy grease or at the ones I get have lousy grease. And you are correct that the 2RS bearings can't greased once installed unless the inner seal is removed. Most of the OEM spindles are now coming with 2RS bearing; even those with grease fittings. I have to take them apart and remove the inner seals.

Note never remove the spindle housing from the deck housing unless they are damaged as the mounting screws will nearly always break off.

 

[nbpt100]

Not these particular flange bearing but I have use the none flange versions which I had machined to fit some cast axles. But of course these axle never has bushings in the first place. Reamed the axle journals and install the modified bushings

Unless the deck spindle housings damage I just replace the bearings after I repack them with EP2 grease, what come with is lousy grease or at the ones I get have lousy grease. And you are correct that the 2RS bearings can't greased once installed unless the inner seal is removed. Most of the OEM spindles are now coming with 2RS bearing; even those with grease fittings. I have to take them apart and remove the inner seals.

Note never remove the spindle housing from the deck housing unless they are damaged as the mounting screws will nearly always break off.

this machine was garaged stored and not much rust. The deck is in great shape for its age. The spindle bolts came right out. I know what you mean. I never felt great about self tapping bolts in that deck doing what they are doing. I have stripped them in the past and just nut and bolt it. What else can you practically do?

For about the same price you can get spindles with the zerk fitting. If all you have to do is remove the inner seals that is not too bad. But when I think of it . These spindles lasted 12 years with No grease fittings. No way to service with out totally disassembling. 12 years is not all that bad when I consider the lawn this mower was mowing. I am not sure of what I will do but I will replace both spindles even though one is bad and the other looks ok. ON second thought I may disassemble the good one and remove the inside seal and pack with good lithium bearing grease. I May even add a zerk fitting. It will be a good test to see if adding an effective zerk fitting is a life extender.

I like your idea on the front end bushings. I do not thing I will have to ream them from what I have measured. It should be a good up grade.