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I am thinking on using a K&N HP-1002 filter and Amsoil (high zink) Z Rod 20/50. I ran that oil in my last rider for 23 years and she still runs great with no oil use. Any opinions I have never ran a Kawasaki before. Engine is in a Ariens Apex 60

Oil is a personal choice I think to most. Like I use valoline and for the filter just use oem. Watch for the dip stick when you pull it read on it and it should say don't thread on for proper oil level. So fill it up to the full mark not threaded the cap down then start and let it run then recheck oil level and fill to the correct mark. I wouldn't use a synthetic or a blend it for high mileage engines and won't let for proper break in. That will prob go for any and all new engines.

I'm at 25 hrs and outside temps are 90-95, do you think it's broke in?

Read in your manual some say change after 5hrs some 10 and then 10 to 25 to change the first oil. But just because that is their break in oil timeline doesn't mean the motor is all the way broken in. I would at say 50 to 100hrs the motor should be broken in by then. But I would change the oil out before then but not use then synthetic because it is for higher hrs and high mileage engines. I just don't like it and it does seem to lube like it needs to.

Luffydog said:

Read in your manual some say change after 5hrs some 10 and then 10 to 25 to change the first oil. But just because that is their break in oil timeline doesn't mean the motor is all the way broken in. I would at say 50 to 100hrs the motor should be broken in by then. But I would change the oil out before then but not use then synthetic because it is for higher hrs and high mileage engines. I just don't like it and it does seem to lube like it needs to.

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I saw that 5 hrs in the engine manual, sort of upset me that
Ariens Manual said 25 for first so I blew right past the 5. I would have done the 5 had I known.

Best to get the original oil out as per your manual, my Kaw on my Toro was listed to do that change by 8 hours. That oil is "Break-in" oil & does not have the good additives in it. I would change oil filter as well, since it will be full of break-in oil too.

You need that oil out. I'll stay out of the "which oil is best" discussion. Everyone has their favorite. Oil filter, up to you, I use the OEM ones.

The manual for my FX730V said the first oil change should be done at 8 hours.
Went with straight 30 wt and new filter, I'm on a yearly oil change because I don't get the hours mowing all summer.
Change oil and filter every spring.

Dealer recommended 10w-40 Kawasaki oil witch is a semi synthetic, but not sure I want to go with a multi grade oil in an air cooled engine used in the hot summer.

I ended up going with the longer filter equivalent by K&N. for the oil I went with a full synthetic 20/50 high zinc as at 25 hrs. she should be broke in fully.

John R said:

The manual for my FX730V said the first oil change should be done at 8 hours.
Went with straight 30 wt and new filter, I'm on a yearly oil change because I don't get the hours mowing all summer.
Change oil and filter every spring.

Dealer recommended 10w-40 Kawasaki oil witch is a semi synthetic, but not sure I want to go with a multi grade oil in an air cooled engine used in the hot summer.

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Suggest that you change the oil in the fall rather than spring. Oil can pick up corrosive contaminants. Better to store with clean oil.

Never thought of that.

Darryl G said:

Suggest that you change the oil in the fall rather than spring. Oil can pick up corrosive contaminants. Better to store with clean oil.

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I concur 100%. I do mine when mowing is done for the year.,

I change mine after the first mow of the year, anything that settles during the winter will be flushed out with the first run and drain.
May not be right, but it's worked for me for 50 years.

Wife's mechanic said:

I ended up going with the longer filter equivalent by K&N.

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Why? How many hours do you expect to put on between oil changes?

I like the larger amount of element surface on the longer filter. You would be surprised how much oil runs through the by pass on any filter other than a screen style.

You're right; I would be surprised if any oil bypasses in a properly matched filter, unless it's clogged. Does the K&N match the bypass pressure of the OEM?

The volumes and pressures were a direct cross. I run pure power filters on everything except my mower, but almost did.