Ironhead Dave
Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2013
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 14
So I have a 2004 RZT22 that quit moving at 300 hours. Took it to the dealer to be told that the trannys are unsevicable and for $600 each plus labor, they would replace them. Reading on the forums, I see this to be the norm.
I found it funny that they both went out at the same time. I replaced belts, etc. all the normal stuff. I even went to the extreme of taking one out and dismantling it completely and found nothing wrong. No wear, no pieces of metal, nothing.
Last ditch effort I called Cub Cadet and actually got through to a transmission tech guy. Told him the story. He told me that it was more than likely that the oil broke down and didn't have enough viscosity to build pressure. The 'drain' plug is on the top next to the vent tube so you have to pull the trans to drain it. Next he said to use 10W-40 synthetic engine oil as it is 'the same thing as the Cub Cadet dry lube' but half the price. Fill it to about 1" below the drain hole to allow for expansion and re-install the trans.
Next pull the bypass rods to disengage the tranny and start the machine. At full throttle, push/pull the lap bars for a minute or so to bleed the air out of the system and then re-engage the trans.
Worked like a charm! It is better than ever!
Thought I'd post to maybe save someone else the heartache and money of replacing theirs. A coulple of hours and abut $25 fixed mine!:biggrin:
I found it funny that they both went out at the same time. I replaced belts, etc. all the normal stuff. I even went to the extreme of taking one out and dismantling it completely and found nothing wrong. No wear, no pieces of metal, nothing.
Last ditch effort I called Cub Cadet and actually got through to a transmission tech guy. Told him the story. He told me that it was more than likely that the oil broke down and didn't have enough viscosity to build pressure. The 'drain' plug is on the top next to the vent tube so you have to pull the trans to drain it. Next he said to use 10W-40 synthetic engine oil as it is 'the same thing as the Cub Cadet dry lube' but half the price. Fill it to about 1" below the drain hole to allow for expansion and re-install the trans.
Next pull the bypass rods to disengage the tranny and start the machine. At full throttle, push/pull the lap bars for a minute or so to bleed the air out of the system and then re-engage the trans.
Worked like a charm! It is better than ever!
Thought I'd post to maybe save someone else the heartache and money of replacing theirs. A coulple of hours and abut $25 fixed mine!:biggrin:
