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First Oil Change

#1

Z

zplugger

I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.


#2

H

Honest Abe

hot climate SAE 20W-50 or SAE 10W-30 cooler climate


#3

A

Auto Doc's

I recommend conventional 10W-30 for at least the first 50 hours of use to ensure complete break-in, then switch over to synthetic.


#4

H

hlw49

Kohler has a 300, hour extended life 10W-50 synthetic oil.


#5

M

MParr

You can use whatever oil you like as long as it meets Kohler's minimum requirements and change at the recommended intervals. I use all sorts of oil in my Kohler engine. I've run 10W40 motorcycle oil, 15W40 diesel oil, and a mixture of leftover oils.


#6

Z

zplugger

Having trouble finding Kohler 12 050 01 filter, a
everybody has the 12 050 01 S filter. Is it ok to use the S model?
Should I look for a different band?


#7

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

zplugger said:
Having trouble finding Kohler 12 050 01 filter, a
everybody has the 12 050 01 S filter. Is it ok to use the S model?
Should I look for a different band?
Click to expand...
Same filter. Kohler/Rehlko just added S to the end of all their part numbers.


#8

H

Honest Abe

zplugger said:
Having trouble finding Kohler 12 050 01 filter, a
everybody has the 12 050 01 S filter. Is it ok to use the S model?
Should I look for a different band?
Click to expand...

ACDelco GM Original Equipment PF2210 Engine Oil Filter​

there are much better deals out there is you just cross reference the Kohler # and shop around...
$25 for a simple filter is ludicrous..... 😱


#9

M

MParr

FRAM PH8172
STP S3512
If you have room (length), a FRAM TG3614, Motorcraft FL-910s, Microgard Select MSL 51348, AC Delco PF53, Super Tech ST3614.


#10

H

hlw49

The s as far as I know mean it is a single part and nothing to do with the quality of the filter.


#11

SouthWestern

SouthWestern

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
Don't know this particular engine but most of my tractor/mower manuals have a chart in them for the grade: it will be different for your climate and temperature range.


#12

S

slomo

Does everyone realize, that ol' wise tail about using synthetic oil after the break in only deal. That was 40 years ago.

Even back then, I read about zero break in issues with synthetic oil on a new engine. Or any engine damage from using synthetic oil on a new engine or a rebuild.

Many new cars and trucks are factory filled with synthetic oil. If someone used synthetic and brand X was at fault, it would be all over the internet.

Or if there was ring sealing issues, could of been from a poor rebuild. IF this was the case, synthetic oil wouldn't seal the rings in modern cars. Nothing but fake news........


#13

S

slomo

MParr said:
You can use whatever oil you like as long as it meets Kohler's minimum requirements and change at the recommended intervals. I use all sorts of oil in my Kohler engine. I've run 10W40 motorcycle oil, 15W40 diesel oil, and a mixture of leftover oils.
Click to expand...
I use drained car oil that looks new in my mowers. Then it goes on my wooden stockade fence.

3,000 miles in the car. 2 seasons in the mowers. 2 seasons on the fence.


#14

S

Skippydiesel

hlw49 said:
Kohler has a 300, hour extended life 10W-50 synthetic oil.
Click to expand...
No matter what the manufacturer recommends, shorter oil change intervals, are better than long. This is especially true for the first oil change in a new engine.
Assembly contamination (swarf, etc) does happen and can easily damage a new engine - for the modest cost of fresh oil/filter, its a no brainer . I would do my first at about 5 hrs. I would consider another at say 50 hrs and then go to recommended oil/filter intervals OR calendar time whichever is shorter. 😈


#15

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

Actually the first oil change at either 5 or 10 hours has been eliminated on engines equipped with an oil filter. First recommended oil change is now 100 hours. So don't get overly concerned about the first oil change and just change it at the end of season.


#16

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

hlw49 said:
Kohler has a 300, hour extended life 10W-50 synthetic oil.
Click to expand...
Many manuals say 100 hours on oil, and 200 hours on oil filter. Many people have gone to 50 hours on oil and oil filter. Oil and filters are inexpensive and shorter change intervals only make sense in the long run.


#17

S

slomo

ILENGINE said:
Actually the first oil change at either 5 or 10 hours has been eliminated on engines equipped with an oil filter. First recommended oil change is now 100 hours. So don't get overly concerned about the first oil change and just change it at the end of season.
Click to expand...
One would think the filter would catch all the break-in metal in the filter. Take the dumped oil out in the sun. You will see a pan full of metal flake. Talking new or freshly rebuilt engines.


#18

H

hlw49

Kawasaki does not specify a 5-hour oil change any more.


#19

M

MParr

hlw49 said:
Kawasaki does not specify a 5-hour oil change any more.
Click to expand...
Neither does Kohler.
However, many mower manufacturers say to change the oil early in their operators manuals. It's best to follow the recommendations in the engine manufacturers manuals for the engine. New mowers come with two manuals, one for the mower and one for the engine.


#20

A

Auto Doc's

slomo said:
Does everyone realize, that ol' wise tail about using synthetic oil after the break in only deal. That was 40 years ago.

Even back then, I read about zero break in issues with synthetic oil on a new engine. Or any engine damage from using synthetic oil on a new engine or a rebuild.

Many new cars and trucks are factory filled with synthetic oil. If someone used synthetic and brand X was at fault, it would be all over the internet.

Or if there was ring sealing issues, could of been from a poor rebuild. IF this was the case, synthetic oil wouldn't seal the rings in modern cars. Nothing but fake new
Click to expand...

MParr said:
Neither does Kohler.
However, many mower manufacturers say to change the oil early in their operators manuals. It's best to follow the recommendations in the engine manufacturers manuals for the engine. New mowers come with two manuals, one for the mower and one for the engine.
Click to expand...
Hello MParr,

You are assuming that people actually have or read the manuals and the dealer provided them.

Many end up on a shelf or in a drawer for 20+ years then they happen to find them long after the mower/rider is gone.

Many sell them at yard sales or on Ebay to make a couple of dollars. Others just throw them away.


#21

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

MParr said:
Neither does Kohler.
However, many mower manufacturers say to change the oil early in their operators manuals. It's best to follow the recommendations in the engine manufacturers manuals for the engine. New mowers come with two manuals, one for the mower and one for the engine.
Click to expand...
There has always been the clause of recommending changing the engine oil at half the recommended hour if used in dirty-dusty conditions, used under heavy load, or ran during periods of high temperatures. And most mowers during the summer hit all 3.


#22

M

MParr

You have a point there.
Those folks then have problems when buying parts. Many will come to forums like this asking part and service advice for their mowers.


#23

S

slomo

ILENGINE said:
And most mowers during the summer hit all 3.
Click to expand...
On the first mow.


#24

S

Skippydiesel

Manufactures see oil change intervals as part of their marketing "spiel". They think (correctly?) that customers will be attracted by longer service intervals, lower cost(?). That such long intervals (300hrs) may end with higher maintenance/repair cost does not concern them - the engine now likly out of calendar warranty.
I don't understand the reluctance of some to change the oil soon (5hrs) after starting a new engine - at worst its an added expense, at best very cheap insurance (it can't do any harm).
For engines fitted with filters, I do a filter change every second oil change - works for me 😈


#25

A

Auto Doc's

Hi Skippydiesel,

Yep, the calendar warranty game. To add insult to injury the customer has also been sold and aftermarket "extended" warranty which is practically worthless.

Back in the $1.99 a quart generic SAE 30 or 10W-30 days, people seemed to be more concerned with frequent oil changes on their mowing equipment. If the oil was starting to turn dark, it was time to change it.

Now with all the marketing push of synthetic oil being a "miracle oil" people put off oil servicing.... and pretty much any other servicing until something breaks down or stop running correctly.

The "never change oil" sticker (B&S) and no drain plug on new push/ walk behind mower equipment has become a sure way for manufacturers to sell more (junk) equipment at a faster pace.

I have met customers who actually thinks it means it will run a "lifetime" with no maintenance at all.

Maybe the economy will change some of that because of new equipment pricing. Prices have become insane since COVID.


#26

H

hlw49

Cheapest basic MTD is over $2000.00 Husqvarna 46-inch cut 22 HP is $2899.99


#27

W

wingstrut

Folks, I will never understand someone purchasing a new piece of expensive equipment and skimp on the maintenance.
If there is any break in on an engine its the piston rings, the other parts of the engine do not touch because of the oil separating them.
Most wear is on start up when oil drains away until next start.
I purchased a new high performance engine from GM and they said run engine for one hour with non synthetic, drain change filter and suggested Mobil One because that is what they dyno checked the engine with. They also recommended that I remove distributor and using a drill with an oil pump attachment to supply oil to everything before start up which I did.
I paid seven thousand dollars for this engine I wasn't about to go to a web site and ask what kind of oil to use and should I follow GM racing divisions recommendation.
There were a lot of very tiny specks of metal, which is normal and most filters have a bypass valve in them in case the filter gets restricted so as to still supply oil to the engine.
People, follow the engine manufacturers directions and you wont have to ask anyone what to use in your new engine.


#28

S

spetrilli

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
I have
zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
i have a 747 cc Kohler on my Bad Boy ZT 54 in Elite. The 747 is 22 to 25 hp. Have used full synthetic 10w30 since my first oil change (I am in the central Midwest. Just use a quality oil and do your oil changes at or before the recommended number of hours. Also use nothing but ethanol free premium fuel with sea foam added to each of my fuel storage containers…. Purchased the mower new in 2016.


#29

SARG

SARG

Just to mention & annoy ........ I've accumulated 3 garden tractors ...one ZTR and two diesel tractors.
They all get oil change with filter ... fuel filter and air filter change at 25 hours ± a couple hours.
Here's my stockpile of filters .
tractors 11 20 22 (1).JPG


#30

J

jromeo1

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
First of all, you should be adhering to the viscosity that Kohler recommends for that mower, otherwise you may be denied warranty service. Second, you should NOT be using car oil
in a mower engine, or any small engine that is air-cooled for that matter. There's a couple of reasons for this. Small engines are usually air-cooled, so the oil needs to be able to handle
higher temps associated with air-cooled engines. Mowers are especially susceptible to running at higher temps and for longer periods of time. The oil has to be able to handle high, as well as low
temperatures at start-ups and synthetic oils are GREAT in this area. Also, small engines in general need high levels of zinc additive in the oil. This additive is essential in protecting small
engines from wear over the long term. Mobil 1 is an oil designed for water-cooled automobile engines and does not contain zinc due to zinc contamination of catalytic converters.
Stay away from car oils for this reason, and by a good synthetic SMALL-ENGINE OIL. There's a few good ones out there. I personally use AMSOIL small-engine oil. It has a 200 hour change
interval as a bonus. There a other brands out there, but don't put a cheap oil in a $30,000 machine!


#31

G

Gord Baker

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
RTFM. I am sure the Manual explains this.


#32

O

Old Gweilo

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
1) Stick to recommended change intervals "even if synthetic oil is used". At minimum change annually just before fall storage.
2) Stay within recommended weights recommended by Kohler. If using multi-grade, "no higher than" lowest number and "equal to" the highest number. So, if say a 20 W 50 were recommended, a 15 W 50 would be fine.
3) Stay with Motorcycle oils or Diesel engine oils of appropriate rating as these, unlike Automotive oils, are high in zinc. Motorcycle oils are usually easier to match with recommendations.
4) Full synthetics are better than conventional oils but using them in pursuit of extending drain intervals is a bad idea. Stick to # 1 above regardless of what oil you use.

NOTE: Air cooled engines subject an oil to wider temperature variations than liquid cooled engines do, regardless of engine size. This is why change intervals and ZDDP (Zinc) content are more important. You shouldn't store seasonal air cooled engines with season old oil in them or start engines intermittently during seasonal storage periods. This may lead to increased condensation (water) and acid formation within the engine. This is not good for bearings. Zinc is very good for engines but very bad for catalytic converters. This is why zinc content in modern automotive oils is typically low.

Hope this helps.


#33

A

Auto Doc's

Keep life simple, use what the equipment manufacturer recommends. They have already conducted the oil studies to prove what is best for their equipment.

If you are looking for cheaper substitutes that have not been proven, that is up to you as an individual.


#34

B

Briantii

jromeo1 said:
First of all, you should be adhering to the viscosity that Kohler recommends for that mower, otherwise you may be denied warranty service. Second, you should NOT be using car oil
in a mower engine, or any small engine that is air-cooled for that matter. There's a couple of reasons for this. Small engines are usually air-cooled, so the oil needs to be able to handle
higher temps associated with air-cooled engines. Mowers are especially susceptible to running at higher temps and for longer periods of time. The oil has to be able to handle high, as well as low
temperatures at start-ups and synthetic oils are GREAT in this area. Also, small engines in general need high levels of zinc additive in the oil. This additive is essential in protecting small
engines from wear over the long term. Mobil 1 is an oil designed for water-cooled automobile engines and does not contain zinc due to zinc contamination of catalytic converters.
Stay away from car oils for this reason, and by a good synthetic SMALL-ENGINE OIL. There's a few good ones out there. I personally use AMSOIL small-engine oil. It has a 200 hour change
interval as a bonus. There a other brands out there, but don't put a cheap oil in a $30,000 machine!
Click to expand...

I agree in spirit, but I believe in sticking to what the manufacturer calls for and many of them call for an API certified oil just like your car does. My challenge with Amsoil (and Redline and HPL, etc) isn’t that their stuff isn’t good or better than spec but it’s that they frequently don’t have it certified so on new equipment you’re putting the warranty at Rick if they figur out you used a non-conforming oil.

I‘ve found using the manufacturer called for specs in a synthetic and changing it very frequently when new (every 5 - 10 hours x 2-3) has kept my engines spotlessly clean and they barely change the color of the oil even as they transition to longer drain intervals after full breakin.


#35

mechanizm

mechanizm

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
synthetic oil is a scam. "full" synthetic means N O T H I N G but everyone thinks that it means 100% synthetic. If it were 100% synthetic oil they'd say so.

People brag about using synthetic oil and having to do fewer oil changes. This is dumb. What causes wear in an engine is the particles in the oil not the oil itself. If you leave dirty oil in your engine it will cause wear. It matters NOT if it's dirty synthetic oil or dirty standard oil.

Furthermore: If I know my oil companies (and I think I do) what's to stop them from putting regular oil in a synthetic oil container and charging 3 or 4x the price?

Buy the cheapest oil at Walmart and just change it more often and this is the key. You can change your oil thrice instead of wasting money on synthetic. I've been doing this for DECADES on all my lawn tractors, cars, trucks and motorcycles with no problems.


#36

B

Briantii

mechanizm said:
synthetic oil is a scam. "full" synthetic means N O T H I N G but everyone thinks that it means 100% synthetic. If it were 100% synthetic oil they'd say so.

People brag about using synthetic oil and having to do fewer oil changes. This is dumb. What causes wear in an engine is the particles in the oil not the oil itself. If you leave dirty oil in your engine it will cause wear. It matters NOT if it's dirty synthetic oil or dirty standard oil.

Furthermore: If I know my oil companies (and I think I do) what's to stop them from putting regular oil in a synthetic oil container and charging 3 or 4x the price?

Buy the cheapest oil at Walmart and just change it more often and this is the key. You can change your oil thrice instead of wasting money on synthetic. I've been doing this for DECADES on all my lawn tractors, cars, trucks and motorcycles with no problems.
Click to expand...
Synthetic is about the only thing you can find anymore. With the latest specs the oil pretty much has to be at least a synthetic blend to meet them. I buy my oil from Walmart too, but it’s synthetic and it’s not terribly expensive either. You also want to focus on an oil that is good at resisting thermal degradation and sludge and that’s typically going to be a synthetic. These air cooled engines can run pretty warm.


#37

B

BTBO

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
I too have a Liberty Z, but with the Kawasaki. 1st oil/filter change was @ 10 hrs using Mobil-1 20W50 (hot south Louisiana climate) and Mobil-1 102 filter. At 120 hrs, I switched to Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil (black bottle) for the added benefit of higher zinc content, which provides better wear and corrosion protection.


#38

B

BTBO

BTBO said:
I too have a Liberty Z, but with the Kawasaki. 1st oil/filter change was @ 10 hrs using Mobil-1 20W50 (hot south Louisiana climate) and Mobil-1 102 filter. At 120 hrs, I switched to Valvoline 20W50 VR1 racing oil (black bottle) for the added benefit of higher zinc content, which provides better wear and corrosion protection. An alternative oil filter is WIX 51348XP.
Click to expand...


#39

G

GearHead36

Both my riders have Kohler engines. I don't go for the 300 hour oil. I prefer to change it every year, and 300 hrs would take me 5-6 yrs to accumulate. So I go with the "short-interval" oil, and change it every year.


#40

A

Auto Doc's

Hi G,

You are certainly not doing any disservice by changing your oil on an annual basis due to reduced frequency of use.


#41

D

den052

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. Synthetic oils resist thinning out with air-cooled engines, and don't thicken up when cold as much. The wear resistance is superior with them. I went to a diesel oil seminar and the expert talked about the advantages of synthetic oils

I talk with authority here.

I'm a retired MASTER light and heavy truck mechanic for over 50 years


#42

T

TheWB

I run 20w50 syn in my zero turn, no issues at all.


#43

M

MParr

It doesn't really matter whether you use synthetic or conventional oils. Lots of commercial guys change their oil at 50 hours. Residential owners usually yearly or 100 hours. That's, if they follow the engine manufacturers recommendations. It's very important to keep the air filters properly maintained and oil level at full.


#44

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

MParr said:
. It's very important to keep the air filters properly maintained and oil level at full.
Click to expand...
And that is the most important thing, and the most neglected. And the people that are not maintaining the air filter are also not maintaining the oil or other maintenence


#45

A

Auto Doc's

Most "oil burners" and "smokers" are caused by a dirty air filter.

An engine is basically an air pump with fuel and proper ignition timing to produce power.


#46

J

jdlahue

zplugger said:
I just got the Scag Liberty with the Kohler 22hp engine and now have 9 hours on it. I need to change oil and filter, can I use syn oil? Can I use Mobile 1 oil in it? Should I use 10w 40 oil?
Thanks for any suggestions on this, such a great mower.
Click to expand...
Check your engine manual for that information. I know B&S list both petroleum oil and Synthetic oil for use but I don't know about Kohler.


#47

F

Freddie21

I have been using syntenic oil and the 3614 pn filters for years without an issue.


#48

A

Auto Doc's

For folks reading this thread, I ask you check out You Tube videos by Lake Speed Jr. He is an oil engineer and know this stuff backwards and forwards.

Everyone has a favorite or a long-term brand that they have trusted for years, but the science has not changed, it has improved by leaps and bounds in recent years.

Check out the videos and get some facts from someone who actually works in the oil testing industry.


#49

M

MParr

Auto Doc's said:
For folks reading this thread, I ask you check out You Tube videos by Lake Speed Jr. He is an oil engineer and know this stuff backwards and forwards.

Everyone has a favorite or a long-term brand that they have trusted for years, but the science has not changed, it has improved by leaps and bounds in recent years.

Check out the videos and get some facts from someone who actually works in the oil testing industry.
Click to expand...
I've watched him before.


#50

SARG

SARG

Strange .... I've used the wallyworld Super Tech in all our gas engines (12) and Rotella in the diesel (2) for several decades with no issues.
I came to the conclusion over 30 years ago that advertizing doesn't make oils any better.... especially when the ratings are the same.


#51

A

Auto Doc's

Hi Sarge,

People like to hammer on Walmart oil (Reminds me of the K-Mart era) Walmart strategically shops distributors and purchases in bulk to help keep prices down. (Cheaper does not mean an inferior product)

Here is a link for this who are interested in learning:
cartipsdaily.com

Who Makes SuperTech Oil? The Truth Behind Walmart's Budget Motor Oil

Ever grabbed a bottle of SuperTech oil at Walmart and wondered who's actually making it? You're not alone in your curiosity. That budget-friendly price tag might make you question whether you're getting the same quality
cartipsdaily.com cartipsdaily.com


#52

Craftsman Garage

Craftsman Garage

hlw49 said:
Kohler has a 300, hour extended life 10W-50 synthetic oil.
Click to expand...
I would hope that people are changing their oil sooner than that.


#53

A

Auto Doc's

Hi CG.,

I think an oil change at 300 hours in a rider is for lazy people that have more money than they have sense. I see "extended life" oils as a marketing gimmick to sell the oil at a higher price.

Oil does not wear out; it gets dirty from carbon blowby deposits that all fuel engines have to deal with, along with dust. Only Propane fuel is a rare exception because it burns so clean to begin with.

I like synthetic oil for better lubrication properties and heat reduction in air cooled engines, but it's not an excuse to put off changing the oil.

If they are not running the mower commercially, changing the oil at the beginning of every season is usually good for most machines. For those that are **** about cutting their yard constantly or running the unit all year round it would be a better effort to change the oil every 6 months.

I have just never put all of my faith in hour meter maintenance schedules. The environment has a lot to do with that.

Here in dry, dusty South Texas dust and sand is a huge factor, so it also requires changing the air cleaner and foam pre-cleaner frequently.


#54

Craftsman Garage

Craftsman Garage

Auto Doc's said:
Hi CG.,

I think an oil change at 300 hours in a rider is for lazy people that have more money than they have sense. I see "extended life" oils as a marketing gimmick to sell the oil at a higher price.

Oil does not wear out; it gets dirty from carbon blowby deposits that all fuel engines have to deal with, along with dust. Only Propane fuel is a rare exception because it burns so clean to begin with.

I like synthetic oil for better lubrication properties and heat reduction in air cooled engines, but it's not an excuse to put off changing the oil.

If they are not running the mower commercially, changing the oil at the beginning of every season is usually good for most machines. For those that are **** about cutting their yard constantly or running the unit all year round it would be a better effort to change the oil every 6 months.

I have just never put all of my faith in hour meter maintenance schedules. The environment has a lot to do with that.

Here in dry, dusty South Texas dust and sand is a huge factor, so it also requires changing the air cleaner and foam pre-cleaner frequently.
Click to expand...
yep


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