I just finished cutting our property for the first time using the M-ZT 61. I have to say.....this thing is friggin' awesome!!!!!! :thumbsup: My normal cut time has been 5.5 hours on the old graden tractor. Today I logged a total of 2.5 hours of blade time. Amazing.
I am really pleased with the performance of the mower. It handles well and I was able to learn to maneuver it pretty quickly. The only thing that I noticed from a negative perspective is that the weight of the rear end can cause problems on sloped areas - especially if the grass is a little moist. There are a few places where I have no choice but to cut on a side hill and several times I felt the rear end slip around. Has anyone else had the same experience?
I would definitely recommend this mowe.:smile:
#2
RatRacer
Awesome Mark. How does it feel to get 3 hours back?:wink:
The sliding is a byproduct of the turf saver tires. Putting on heavier lugged tread is a way to correct this, but you risk tearing up the lawn easier as a draw back, plus the added $$$.
Awesome Mark. How does it feel to get 3 hours back?:wink:
The sliding is a byproduct of the turf saver tires. Putting on heavier lugged tread is a way to correct this, but you risk tearing up the lawn easier as a draw back, plus the added $$$.
I would add that sometimes dropping the psi a couple of pounds on the rear tires may yield better traction too. Also, what "brand" tires come on those M-ZT's??? My Gravely has Kenda's and I really like their performance.
I would add that sometimes dropping the psi a couple of pounds on the rear tires may yield better traction too. Also, what "brand" tires come on those M-ZT's??? My Gravely has Kenda's and I really like their performance.
My Husqvarna RZ4824F has the Kenda's I'm running the recommended 15psi all the way around. I rarely slip on some of my hillsides, if it is wet I will fill it a little bit. Mine only weighs 600lbs though. I'm sure the M-ZT and Gravely weigh a lot more with larger rear wheels. Mine only has the 18 x 9.50 tires. A friend of mine has the M-ZT, he says he is running around 12 psi in the rears.
I'd still try running the rear tires at 2-3psi less than the recommended presure in the manual before investing in a different brand/tread pattern tire. Let us know if that improves the slipping.
I'd still try running the rear tires at 2-3psi less than the recommended presure in the manual before investing in a different brand/tread pattern tire. Let us know if that improves the slipping.
Agreed. I really don't want to/need to invest in different tires. I will try running with a lighter pressure - and I think I'll get more smooth and strategic in how I approach my cutting as I get more time on the mower.
Agreed. I really don't want to/need to invest in different tires. I will try running with a lighter pressure - and I think I'll get more smooth and strategic in how I approach my cutting as I get more time on the mower.
I meant to ask before, but when you are cutting on the slopes are you cutting sideways on the hill or up and down the hill?? I'm trying to remember(I don't have any significant grades on my property) but user Ric mentions from time to time that for mowing grades on a ZTR, which of those methods is preferable/safest(versus which method to use for a lawn tractor...I'm pretty certain they are the "opposite"). That can make a big difference for those of us who are new to a ZTR and aren't sure the correct direction to use when mowing grades.
The recommended way is to cut up/down the slope. Certainly, that is the safest way. Unfortunately, that's not always possible - for example, I have to cut around our lake and it has a slope around the edge. I can't cut into the lake. :smile: So, there are a few places like that where I have no choice but to cut side hill.
Plus 2 for dropping the tire pressure, my Toro 3000 is suppose to have 13 PSI, I tried that, but the ride was like a LOG Truck, I kept dropping the Pressure and finely stopped at 9 PSI all 4 tires, the ride is MUCH better, does not effect the cut, and I have a couple very steep slops that the only way to cut is with the sloop, only thing I find is I have to give a little more pressure on the stick on the down hill side, this make the unit keep straight ahead, and as was Said the best way is up & down the sloop if Possible, I have 400 ft. of road Ditch that I mow up & down the sloop, Just Keep You Eye on the Cars, The Road I live on is not heavy traffic,
