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Finding the right fuel solenoid
#1
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
Hi everyone.
i have a Cub Cadet 13WQ93AP009 LTX 1050. Its garage kept and has 200 hours. The engine is a Kohler KT735-3012 MTD.
I used it the other day and after about a hour it shut off. It was completely dead. I got it in the garage and found the main 20 A fuse was blown. Replaced it and it popped as soon as I turned the key 1 position. Guess that would be run. It has the reverse safety switch. I don't like it but I didn't engineer it. I just ride it.
I went through and eliminated all the safety switches first. still blew the fuse. now I had about 5 blown fuses. Anyhow, I unplugged the wire harness that feeds the ignition/charging components. the fuse didn't blow. So, I figured it was probably a shorted voltage regulator/Rectifier. Seemed like a appropriate part to start replacing. I also checked all the wires for shorts and noticed the red wire going to the fuel solenoid shut off. So I unplugged it from the solenoid, plugged the wire harness back in and it didn't blow. I wanted to be 100% and I plugged the red wire back into the solenoid while the harness was plugged in and the fuse didn't blow. The mower started up and ran perfect. So now I'm confused about what shorted. I would still like to change the rectifier that I already got in the mail today and the fuel solenoid. The solenoid is a being a issue though. All the parts diagrams online do not list a number for the solenoid. I checked Kohler and they didn't either. but at the bottom of the parts list they had a fuel solenoid rebuild kit. I searched the number and at some stores its over $100 and comes with what looks like the mounting gasket for the entire carb, the bowl gasket, the solenoid and the solenoid gasket. the ones I've changed just unscrew and you screw the new one in. I emailed Kohler and asked about it and its been since last week with no response. If I can just replace the solenoid I need a number. when I put the engine number and solenoid into google search a lot come up. My problem is I have no clue if the ones coming up will fit as I don't have a number. I'm hoping someone has worked on this motor before and can give me some advise.
Thanks for any help.
i have a Cub Cadet 13WQ93AP009 LTX 1050. Its garage kept and has 200 hours. The engine is a Kohler KT735-3012 MTD.
I used it the other day and after about a hour it shut off. It was completely dead. I got it in the garage and found the main 20 A fuse was blown. Replaced it and it popped as soon as I turned the key 1 position. Guess that would be run. It has the reverse safety switch. I don't like it but I didn't engineer it. I just ride it.
I went through and eliminated all the safety switches first. still blew the fuse. now I had about 5 blown fuses. Anyhow, I unplugged the wire harness that feeds the ignition/charging components. the fuse didn't blow. So, I figured it was probably a shorted voltage regulator/Rectifier. Seemed like a appropriate part to start replacing. I also checked all the wires for shorts and noticed the red wire going to the fuel solenoid shut off. So I unplugged it from the solenoid, plugged the wire harness back in and it didn't blow. I wanted to be 100% and I plugged the red wire back into the solenoid while the harness was plugged in and the fuse didn't blow. The mower started up and ran perfect. So now I'm confused about what shorted. I would still like to change the rectifier that I already got in the mail today and the fuel solenoid. The solenoid is a being a issue though. All the parts diagrams online do not list a number for the solenoid. I checked Kohler and they didn't either. but at the bottom of the parts list they had a fuel solenoid rebuild kit. I searched the number and at some stores its over $100 and comes with what looks like the mounting gasket for the entire carb, the bowl gasket, the solenoid and the solenoid gasket. the ones I've changed just unscrew and you screw the new one in. I emailed Kohler and asked about it and its been since last week with no response. If I can just replace the solenoid I need a number. when I put the engine number and solenoid into google search a lot come up. My problem is I have no clue if the ones coming up will fit as I don't have a number. I'm hoping someone has worked on this motor before and can give me some advise.
Thanks for any help.
Attachments
#2
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
They went from a one wire solenoid to a two wire hence the kit. Part no. 32 757 01-S. $56.26 retail.
#3
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Sounds like wire on anti afterfire solenoid on carburetor is chaffed and shorting to ground and popping fuses. Purchase a new solenoid and replace, track down wire bad spot, or, bypass the solenoid and be done with issues forever. Your call.They went from a one wire solenoid to a two wire hence the kit. Part no. 32 757 01-S. $56.26 retail.
#4
StarTech
StarTech
The Kohler kit PN is 32 757 01-S.
But trying measuring it and see if it matches the following. If so then there is an aftermarket version under Briggs PN 694393. Now the Briggs OEM solenoid is just as high priced but on Amazon there is one for about $12
Also the Briggs one may look like this so when ordering order the aftermarket version that matches your current solenoid.
Just note Amazon is now requiring $35 minimum orders here for free shipping. May be only be $25 in your area just depends if they hit your area yet.
But trying measuring it and see if it matches the following. If so then there is an aftermarket version under Briggs PN 694393. Now the Briggs OEM solenoid is just as high priced but on Amazon there is one for about $12
Also the Briggs one may look like this so when ordering order the aftermarket version that matches your current solenoid.
Just note Amazon is now requiring $35 minimum orders here for free shipping. May be only be $25 in your area just depends if they hit your area yet.
#5
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
Mine already is a 2 wire plug. a black wire from the plug comes out and attaches to the engine. Checked continuity with meter and it's good. I also had checked the red wire for short to ground but found nothing. Is there anyway that the ground and hot can't short inside the solenoid?
I just did my Husky Zero turn solenoid at the beginning of summer. I just clipped the plunger off and ran it. It never backfired. I got the new solenoid from Briggs and put it on. It has backfired several times since installing the new one. When they work I don't mind them. Generally I've never been a big fan of them.
If they changed the design and added another wire where would it go? It is already grounded. Wouldn't you need a new harness or at least a new plug for the solenoid to accept a 3rd wire?
I put a pic of mine in here.
Thanks
Wade
I just did my Husky Zero turn solenoid at the beginning of summer. I just clipped the plunger off and ran it. It never backfired. I got the new solenoid from Briggs and put it on. It has backfired several times since installing the new one. When they work I don't mind them. Generally I've never been a big fan of them.
If they changed the design and added another wire where would it go? It is already grounded. Wouldn't you need a new harness or at least a new plug for the solenoid to accept a 3rd wire?
I put a pic of mine in here.
Thanks
Wade
Attachments
#6
StarTech
StarTech
The solenoid will have approx 25 ohms across the two terminals and infinitely from either one to the case.
#7
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
Thank you I'll check when I get home.The solenoid will have approx 25 ohms across the two terminals and infinitely from either one to the case.
#8
W
Wirespider01
I checked that kit. I'm confused as it doesn't show another wire for the solenoid. It has carb mounting gaskets, what looks like a bowl gasket, new solenoid and a new solenoid washer. It shows that the new solenoid screws into the bottom of the bowl. I'll post a pic. Oh and a zip tie is included.
W
Wirespider01
Thanks,They went from a one wire solenoid to a two wire hence the kit. Part no. 32 757 01-S. $56.26 retail
I checked that kit. I'm confused as it doesn't show another wire for the solenoid. It has carb mounting gaskets, what looks like a bowl gasket, new solenoid and a new solenoid washer. It shows that the new solenoid screws into the bottom of the bowl. I'll post a pic. Oh and a zip tie is included.
Attachments
#9
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
34The solenoid will have approx 25 ohms across the two terminals and infinitely from either one to the case.
#10
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
I removed mine. it just unscrewed from the bottom of the bowl with a 1/2 thin spanner wrench like others I've changed. No need to take carb off. The PN you gave me was off a few mm off each measurement. I put in goggle search my engine model + fuel solenoid and I stumbled upon one with the right plunger tip and the same dimensions and I bought it. Won't be here till next week. Not sure if I'm going down the right path since it did have 34 ohms and didn't drop to 0 like it would've if it had a short. Unless something shorts when energized. Maybe it just has to be ran for a while before the ohms drop ri 0 and shorts out? I checked the red wire. Still haven't found any rub marks. I put a pic of my solenoid and the one I ordered.The Kohler kit PN is 32 757 01-S.
But trying measuring it and see if it matches the following. If so then there is an aftermarket version under Briggs PN 694393. Now the Briggs OEM solenoid is just as high priced but on Amazon there is one for about $12
View attachment 66493
Also the Briggs one may look like this so when ordering order the aftermarket version that matches your current solenoid.
View attachment 66494
Just note Amazon is now requiring $35 minimum orders here for free shipping. May be only be $25 in your area just depends if they hit your area yet.
Attachments
#11
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Only two wire’s maximum, hot and ground. Some only have one wire, and use solenoid while screwed in for ground. Even on small electrical issues like this, sometimes bypassing is just better long term to eliminate problems. Don’t get caught up over a 10 ohms difference in reading. I read secondary resistance on ignition coils sometimes that are bad, and ohms out ok, then ultimately replace and problem goes away. Some issues are not black and white.I removed mine. it just unscrewed from the bottom of the bowl with a 1/2 thin spanner wrench like others I've changed. No need to take carb off. The PN you gave me was off a few mm off each measurement. I put in goggle search my engine model + fuel solenoid and I stumbled upon one with the right plunger tip and the same dimensions and I bought it. Won't be here till next week. Not sure if I'm going down the right path since it did have 34 ohms and didn't drop to 0 like it would've if it had a short. Unless something shorts when energized. Maybe it just has to be ran for a while before the ohms drop ri 0 and shorts out? I checked the red wire. Still haven't found any rub marks. I put a pic of my solenoid and the one I ordered.
#12
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
Thank you.Only two wire’s maximum, hot and ground. Some only have one wire, and use solenoid while screwed in for ground. Even on small electrical issues like this, sometimes bypassing is just better long term to eliminate problems. Don’t get caught up over a 10 ohms difference in reading. I read secondary resistance on ignition coils sometimes that are bad, and ohms out ok, then ultimately replace and problem goes away. Some issues are not black and white.
#13
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
If you have not done so, remove the engine cover and you'll probably see the wires go across the top of the engine. Examine them and clean the engine while you're at this point. On some Briggs, the two wires go behind the starter and can get pinched there. An easy fix.
#15
C
Cajun power
C
Cajun power
for testing: remove the anti back fire solenoid. (yes, fuel will drain out, have a small container handy to catch fuel). With fingers or the back of plastic handle screw driver, depress the pin into the solenoid. (engine OFF). Do this a few times. If it will not budge spray some wd-40. Try it again. Now, with anti back fire solenoid removed, key to start and you should be able to see the pin retract as it should. It's hard to listen to it click because you might confuse the click with the starter solenoid, which also can give a slight click sound too...so just watch the pin and see if it will retract. if not, try excercising the pin over and over with wd-40...try again...if it still will not budge, then you have some option:
1. meter the connector while you start and see if there is 12 volts. If there is no voltage, then you have a power supply problem. Go all the way back to the disconnect...usually there is a large disconnect somewhere between the anti backfire solenoid connector and the ignition switch. check the power there...if there IS power there, then you probably either have a bad connector or open wire between the connector and the anti backfire solenoid. often this is the wires getting crushed from factory zip ties somewhere along the route. Look at this zip tied locations. Sometimes the wires get borked and insulation loss across the engine or engine shroud, causing a short. Basically this option is looking for why you are not getting power to the anti back fire solenoid connector. If you are not getting power to the disconnect on ENGINE START, the continue tracing back from that connector to the ignition switch...looking for wire damage or a corroded or grounded spade connector on the ignition switch. (as preventative maintenance, I wd-40 ignition switches at least once a year..internally, they can corrode as well as the backside where the terminals can get junked up from debris, causing shorts between wiring connectors.
2. if you do have power to the anti back fire solenoid connector (at engine start), and there are no issues traced all the way back to ignition switch, then it's more than likely a faulty anti back fire solenoid device...either it's so gummed up that the solenoid failed, or as is the case usually these are cheaply made prone to fail devices that die over time.. You can if you want to, just delete the anti back fire solenoid from the engine and get a fine threaded bolt to hold the bowl of the carb with a simple bolt gasket to prevent leaks. If you are concerned about back fires, idle down before shutting engine off. I've done this many times and there is no downside to just deleting the device. If the engine pops in shutdown, I'm not losing sleep over it. But it rarely happens. anti back fire solenoids are expensive, but you can sometimes find alternate part numbers by cross referencing the carb..(versus trying to do it with the engine or mower model). So if you find the carb model number, look for the anti back fire solenoid that fits it and matches the wiring connector you have. Sometimes you find that there are many different part numbers for anti back fire solenoids that work for a carb. if you follow the mower parts list or engine parts list from the manufacturer they do not generally give you alternate parts that will actually work..and that are cheaper. I'm sure we can assume why they would not give this info out. :-(
1. meter the connector while you start and see if there is 12 volts. If there is no voltage, then you have a power supply problem. Go all the way back to the disconnect...usually there is a large disconnect somewhere between the anti backfire solenoid connector and the ignition switch. check the power there...if there IS power there, then you probably either have a bad connector or open wire between the connector and the anti backfire solenoid. often this is the wires getting crushed from factory zip ties somewhere along the route. Look at this zip tied locations. Sometimes the wires get borked and insulation loss across the engine or engine shroud, causing a short. Basically this option is looking for why you are not getting power to the anti back fire solenoid connector. If you are not getting power to the disconnect on ENGINE START, the continue tracing back from that connector to the ignition switch...looking for wire damage or a corroded or grounded spade connector on the ignition switch. (as preventative maintenance, I wd-40 ignition switches at least once a year..internally, they can corrode as well as the backside where the terminals can get junked up from debris, causing shorts between wiring connectors.
2. if you do have power to the anti back fire solenoid connector (at engine start), and there are no issues traced all the way back to ignition switch, then it's more than likely a faulty anti back fire solenoid device...either it's so gummed up that the solenoid failed, or as is the case usually these are cheaply made prone to fail devices that die over time.. You can if you want to, just delete the anti back fire solenoid from the engine and get a fine threaded bolt to hold the bowl of the carb with a simple bolt gasket to prevent leaks. If you are concerned about back fires, idle down before shutting engine off. I've done this many times and there is no downside to just deleting the device. If the engine pops in shutdown, I'm not losing sleep over it. But it rarely happens. anti back fire solenoids are expensive, but you can sometimes find alternate part numbers by cross referencing the carb..(versus trying to do it with the engine or mower model). So if you find the carb model number, look for the anti back fire solenoid that fits it and matches the wiring connector you have. Sometimes you find that there are many different part numbers for anti back fire solenoids that work for a carb. if you follow the mower parts list or engine parts list from the manufacturer they do not generally give you alternate parts that will actually work..and that are cheaper. I'm sure we can assume why they would not give this info out. :-(
#16
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
Thanks. I've always had power at the solenoid. I unplugged the whole harness before it goes up into the ignition switch. I traced most of the wires all seem good. I put a new rectifier on JIC. I put a brand new solenoid in turned the switch and it popped the fuse. So I removed the red wire from the plug to the solenoid. Runs good but I haven't mowed with it yet. Still in the garage. I have to put the shroud back on. I was reassembling and I forgot to put the shroud on before mounting the gas tank. That tank is a pain where it's at. So I'll have to reloosen the gas tank to get the shroud down over. Seems like cub cadet did some over engineering on that and also you have to remove the whole battery and tray to get to fuse, then you have no battery to check fuse circuits. I have small jumpers that took care of that problem though. Just seems like some things weren't thought out that well at the engineering level. Probably to throw more business to the cub cadet service dealers. I'll let you know if it mows without blowing a fuse. if it does blow a fuse I'm going right to the ignition switch and putting a new one in. Oh and I was able to match a aftermarket solenoid up with mine going of the plunger tip and the dimensions of the solenoid. If anyone needs that part number I have it. You don't have to buy the rebuild kit if you already have a two wire solenoid plug like I didfor testing: remove the anti back fire solenoid. (yes, fuel will drain out, have a small container handy to catch fuel). With fingers or the back of plastic handle screw driver, depress the pin into the solenoid. (engine OFF). Do this a few times. If it will not budge spray some wd-40. Try it again. Now, with anti back fire solenoid removed, key to start and you should be able to see the pin retract as it should. It's hard to listen to it click because you might confuse the click with the starter solenoid, which also can give a slight click sound too...so just watch the pin and see if it will retract. if not, try excercising the pin over and over with wd-40...try again...if it still will not budge, then you have some option:
1. meter the connector while you start and see if there is 12 volts. If there is no voltage, then you have a power supply problem. Go all the way back to the disconnect...usually there is a large disconnect somewhere between the anti backfire solenoid connector and the ignition switch. check the power there...if there IS power there, then you probably either have a bad connector or open wire between the connector and the anti backfire solenoid. often this is the wires getting crushed from factory zip ties somewhere along the route. Look at this zip tied locations. Sometimes the wires get borked and insulation loss across the engine or engine shroud, causing a short. Basically this option is looking for why you are not getting power to the anti back fire solenoid connector. If you are not getting power to the disconnect on ENGINE START, the continue tracing back from that connector to the ignition switch...looking for wire damage or a corroded or grounded spade connector on the ignition switch. (as preventative maintenance, I wd-40 ignition switches at least once a year..internally, they can corrode as well as the backside where the terminals can get junked up from debris, causing shorts between wiring connectors.
2. if you do have power to the anti back fire solenoid connector (at engine start), and there are no issues traced all the way back to ignition switch, then it's more than likely a faulty anti back fire solenoid device...either it's so gummed up that the solenoid failed, or as is the case usually these are cheaply made prone to fail devices that die over time.. You can if you want to, just delete the anti back fire solenoid from the engine and get a fine threaded bolt to hold the bowl of the carb with a simple bolt gasket to prevent leaks. If you are concerned about back fires, idle down before shutting engine off. I've done this many times and there is no downside to just deleting the device. If the engine pops in shutdown, I'm not losing sleep over it. But it rarely happens. anti back fire solenoids are expensive, but you can sometimes find alternate part numbers by cross referencing the carb..(versus trying to do it with the engine or mower model). So if you find the carb model number, look for the anti back fire solenoid that fits it and matches the wiring connector you have. Sometimes you find that there are many different part numbers for anti back fire solenoids that work for a carb. if you follow the mower parts list or engine parts list from the manufacturer they do not generally give you alternate parts that will actually work..and that are cheaper. I'm sure we can assume why they would not give this info out. :-(
#17
C
Cajun power
C
Cajun power
A blown fuse is usually caused by a bad voltage regulator, yes. So good call. I'm not 100 percent, but there is also a diode that might be in the PTO circuit. This zenner acts to prevent back current from the PTO to the charging circuit when the PTO is first engaged at which time it produces a inrush of current and the consequential inductive reactance! (big words, simplified: some high amp solenoid like the PTO clutch system create quite a bit of resistance initially during startup.....the diode prevents that backflow of current from damaging the wiring and the voltage regulator. (I have an old dixie chopper that on the charging circuit, because the voltage regulator does not have an integrated diode!) If you have the time, research the wiring diagram for your mower and see if there is a diode...this could be the reason for the failure of the anti backfire solenoid. This is purely a guess on my part. I do not have the time right now to look up the wiring schematic and see the description and operation. You might also want to do a test of the PTO, and also inspect it visually to make sure there is not something wrapped around it, or even the mower spindles. Anything that binds of the belt driven PTO clutch and spindles could be drawing excessive amps! Here is a good video for testing the PTOThanks. I've always had power at the solenoid. I unplugged the whole harness before it goes up into the ignition switch. I traced most of the wires all seem good. I put a new rectifier on JIC. I put a brand new solenoid in turned the switch and it popped the fuse. So I removed the red wire from the plug to the solenoid. Runs good but I haven't mowed with it yet. Still in the garage. I have to put the shroud back on. I was reassembling and I forgot to put the shroud on before mounting the gas tank. That tank is a pain where it's at. So I'll have to reloosen the gas tank to get the shroud down over. Seems like cub cadet did some over engineering on that and also you have to remove the whole battery and tray to get to fuse, then you have no battery to check fuse circuits. I have small jumpers that took care of that problem though. Just seems like some things weren't thought out that well at the engineering level. Probably to throw more business to the cub cadet service dealers. I'll let you know if it mows without blowing a fuse. if it does blow a fuse I'm going right to the ignition switch and putting a new one in. Oh and I was able to match a aftermarket solenoid up with mine going of the plunger tip and the dimensions of the solenoid. If anyone needs that part number I have it. You don't have to buy the rebuild kit if you already have a two wire solenoid plug like I did
#18
C
Cajun power
C
Cajun power
check this out also:Thanks. I've always had power at the solenoid. I unplugged the whole harness before it goes up into the ignition switch. I traced most of the wires all seem good. I put a new rectifier on JIC. I put a brand new solenoid in turned the switch and it popped the fuse. So I removed the red wire from the plug to the solenoid. Runs good but I haven't mowed with it yet. Still in the garage. I have to put the shroud back on. I was reassembling and I forgot to put the shroud on before mounting the gas tank. That tank is a pain where it's at. So I'll have to reloosen the gas tank to get the shroud down over. Seems like cub cadet did some over engineering on that and also you have to remove the whole battery and tray to get to fuse, then you have no battery to check fuse circuits. I have small jumpers that took care of that problem though. Just seems like some things weren't thought out that well at the engineering level. Probably to throw more business to the cub cadet service dealers. I'll let you know if it mows without blowing a fuse. if it does blow a fuse I'm going right to the ignition switch and putting a new one in. Oh and I was able to match a aftermarket solenoid up with mine going of the plunger tip and the dimensions of the solenoid. If anyone needs that part number I have it. You don't have to buy the rebuild kit if you already have a two wire solenoid plug like I did
#19
W
Wirespider01
I had about 15 fuses the night I started trouble shooting. I eliminated a lot of possibilities. I blew quite a few fuses but they are not expensive.
I'll see what happens when everything is heated up to normal mowing temp.
I don't think it's the coils or stator. I don't believe they would short until mower is cranking. I could be totally wrong on that. My best guess now if the machine blows another fuse it's the ignition switch. At least the the red wire contact for the solenoid. The switch is OEM and it has been in the rain sitting a few times from the old owner and me. Sometimes it just happens. The old owner kept it in the garage mostly and I store it in the garage for the most part.
W
Wirespider01
Thanks Cajun Power. Before posting here I completely unplugged the PTO and turned the key over one click and the fuse blew. I also already disconnected the headlight harness and it popped the fuse. No flattened or Skinned wires. I've eliminated the fuel solenoid and the wire from the main connector (plug) in the harness.check this out also:
I had about 15 fuses the night I started trouble shooting. I eliminated a lot of possibilities. I blew quite a few fuses but they are not expensive.
I'll see what happens when everything is heated up to normal mowing temp.
I don't think it's the coils or stator. I don't believe they would short until mower is cranking. I could be totally wrong on that. My best guess now if the machine blows another fuse it's the ignition switch. At least the the red wire contact for the solenoid. The switch is OEM and it has been in the rain sitting a few times from the old owner and me. Sometimes it just happens. The old owner kept it in the garage mostly and I store it in the garage for the most part.
#20
C
Cajun power
C
Cajun power
yes, based on what you have done so far, the ignition switch might be badly corroded internally and shorting. I have a few other suggestions:
check the battery ground...the ground point and the cable itself. the chassis/engine acts as the negative common of these mower...if the ground cable is corroded, or there is something else like rust that prevents a good chassic/engine ground, the chassis/engine connection acts as high resistance...I would disconnect the battery ground (black) cable completely ( this is important because there is a non zero chance there might be a very small parasitic draw somewhere even with engine off and this will effect a proper cable ohm check). and ohm check it to make sure the cable isn't damaged. It should be zero (0) ohms. make sure your meter is good. test the leads before to make sure by touching them. that should read 0 ohms also for a good meter test. Now reattach the battery ground cable again to only the ground point on the chassis (do not connect to battery ground just yet). Now test from the ground cable end all the way back to the engine block. This should also read zero (0) ohms. if you get anything any resistance ohms, then your ground point to the engine through the chassis is not a good connection (this can happen on chassis that are bolted together, versus one single piece of steel. (anecdote: on my own gmc silverado, I was constantly replacing the fuel sender in the tank. due to age and rust the ground point from the battery through the chassis was not good continuity...the fuel sender was grounded at the frame under the bed of the truck. chassis resistance, point to point was almost 20 ohms. I solved this problem by running a 10 AWG stranded wire from the fuel sender forward to the engine compartment where the battery ground is bolted. I've never had to replace a fuel sender again! )
another thing to test are the electrical disconnect plugs. Sometimes due to corrosion, or heat damage internally wires can short, or just loose connections inside. (I like using dielectric grease on these connectors...it helps to prevent water ingress and junk and keeps the connectors from corroding over time) The easy way to test this is to remove wires upstream and down stream from the disconnects and then test continuity (ring it out). There is a process involved. say there are 7 wires in the connector. Take wire number one and ring that out to the other end of the connected wire. (sometimes the wire colors are different on each end of the connector, so visually see how they are connected. In this example you are ringing out wire 1 with wire 2, then wire 3, the wire 4..all the way to 6. There should be no shorts between wires. That is what you are checking to see. then take wire 2 and ring it to wire 3 thru 6 (you've already done wire 1 to 2 before)...and then ring out wire 3 to 4 thru 6...and then ring wire 4 to 5 thru 6. the ring out wire 5 to 6. If you get a ring out (continuity then the connector internally is shorting the wires that ring. (if you have a needle lead you can of course back probe the connector on either side, but I prefer to do the wires, because you can also check the wires at the same time (for resistance).
check the battery ground...the ground point and the cable itself. the chassis/engine acts as the negative common of these mower...if the ground cable is corroded, or there is something else like rust that prevents a good chassic/engine ground, the chassis/engine connection acts as high resistance...I would disconnect the battery ground (black) cable completely ( this is important because there is a non zero chance there might be a very small parasitic draw somewhere even with engine off and this will effect a proper cable ohm check). and ohm check it to make sure the cable isn't damaged. It should be zero (0) ohms. make sure your meter is good. test the leads before to make sure by touching them. that should read 0 ohms also for a good meter test. Now reattach the battery ground cable again to only the ground point on the chassis (do not connect to battery ground just yet). Now test from the ground cable end all the way back to the engine block. This should also read zero (0) ohms. if you get anything any resistance ohms, then your ground point to the engine through the chassis is not a good connection (this can happen on chassis that are bolted together, versus one single piece of steel. (anecdote: on my own gmc silverado, I was constantly replacing the fuel sender in the tank. due to age and rust the ground point from the battery through the chassis was not good continuity...the fuel sender was grounded at the frame under the bed of the truck. chassis resistance, point to point was almost 20 ohms. I solved this problem by running a 10 AWG stranded wire from the fuel sender forward to the engine compartment where the battery ground is bolted. I've never had to replace a fuel sender again! )
another thing to test are the electrical disconnect plugs. Sometimes due to corrosion, or heat damage internally wires can short, or just loose connections inside. (I like using dielectric grease on these connectors...it helps to prevent water ingress and junk and keeps the connectors from corroding over time) The easy way to test this is to remove wires upstream and down stream from the disconnects and then test continuity (ring it out). There is a process involved. say there are 7 wires in the connector. Take wire number one and ring that out to the other end of the connected wire. (sometimes the wire colors are different on each end of the connector, so visually see how they are connected. In this example you are ringing out wire 1 with wire 2, then wire 3, the wire 4..all the way to 6. There should be no shorts between wires. That is what you are checking to see. then take wire 2 and ring it to wire 3 thru 6 (you've already done wire 1 to 2 before)...and then ring out wire 3 to 4 thru 6...and then ring wire 4 to 5 thru 6. the ring out wire 5 to 6. If you get a ring out (continuity then the connector internally is shorting the wires that ring. (if you have a needle lead you can of course back probe the connector on either side, but I prefer to do the wires, because you can also check the wires at the same time (for resistance).
#21
J
jviews12
J
jviews12
You did not confirm it was the solenoid. You thought it was. Get more fuses, wait till it happens again, then run the experiment that the solenoid is bad. Is it really?
#22
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
No its not confirmed. I eliminated the wire and the plunger on the old one for now. It was the only thing that I was able to unplug in the beginning and not blow the fuse. So, if I find out its something else, its easily repaired by putting the red wire back into the plug and putting the brand new solenoid I have in. I have plenty of fuses.You did not confirm it was the solenoid. You thought it was. Get more fuses, wait till it happens again, then run the experiment that the solenoid is bad. Is it really?
#23
W
Wirespider01
W
Wirespider01
I've drove it around a bit and no blown fuse. Didn't mow with it yet as I like my zero turn when I'm in a hurry.
One thing I did notice is after I ran it around the yard and driveway and such it now suffers from run on. I had to choke it to kill the run on. So I'll need to run new wire and put the new fuel solenoid on.
I'd rather leave the ignition switch out of supplying the 12 volts to the red wire to the solenoid. Is there a safe way to branch into another 12 v wire that only comes alive when the ignition switch is on? If so what's it feed so I can find the wire. I could also run a new wire on a independent switch. But then I'd be worried it would get bumped on and it would kill the battery.
Headlight wiring is good and the led replacements lamps work well. Not sure if they come on when the switch is in the on position or when it cranks and runs?
One thing I did notice is after I ran it around the yard and driveway and such it now suffers from run on. I had to choke it to kill the run on. So I'll need to run new wire and put the new fuel solenoid on.
I'd rather leave the ignition switch out of supplying the 12 volts to the red wire to the solenoid. Is there a safe way to branch into another 12 v wire that only comes alive when the ignition switch is on? If so what's it feed so I can find the wire. I could also run a new wire on a independent switch. But then I'd be worried it would get bumped on and it would kill the battery.
Headlight wiring is good and the led replacements lamps work well. Not sure if they come on when the switch is in the on position or when it cranks and runs?