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About a week ago my brand new Ferris IS2600Z Diesel threw a drive belt do to a branch that wedged up into the belt and pulley . I could not move back or forward. I got a look and saw that the drive belt (top belt) not the deck belt came off of the pulley. So the hydraulics were not working.
The belt is still in good shape and all I want to do is take it off. I have a new belt coming, but the one that is on is still in pretty good shape . the branch didn't do to much damage.
For three days, I've been trying to remove the belt rather then cutting it off.
If you have this machine and have tried to get the belt off let me know how you did it.
I've been in contact with B&S who makes Ferris and they don't know how to get my belt off either. Their answer..... cut it off.
I've been to all the sites for Ferris. Apparently, this model isn't the most popular one.
I think I'm the only one who bought one.

If you can’t get it off and decide to cut it, how will you get the new belt on?
You are going to have to remove the deck belt first.
You are then going to have to unplug your PTO clutch and remove the PTO anti-rotation bolt.
You are then going to release the tension spring on the hydraulic drive tensioner pulley.
Now, you are ready to remove the belt. Replace in reverse manner.
I know that this video isn’t for your mower. However, the procedure is similar.
The other option is to load it up and take it to the dealer.

Feeding a new belt on looks pretty straight forward. Not easy but do able.
I appreciate your explanation about how to do..... I've been through all of that already.
Do you own an IS2600Z?
This machine is a nightmare to replace belts on.
I guess I'm spoiled because I've owened a Scags for the last 30 years. Easy easy to do maintenance on.
I thought when I bought this Ferris it would be similar.
Your last comment about taking it to a dealer is to simplistic.
I have to move this beast with no power to the drives onto a trailer. Or pay a fortune to have them pick it up.
You would have thought someone would have paid attention to the area's of maintenance and repair.
It is built like a tank, but very little accessability to the things that will most likely go first.

neighborbill said:

Feeding a new belt on looks pretty straight forward. Not easy but do able.
I appreciate your explanation about how to do..... I've been through all of that already.
Do you own an IS2600Z?
This machine is a nightmare to replace belts on.
I guess I'm spoiled because I've owened a Scags for the last 30 years. Easy easy to do maintenance on.
I thought when I bought this Ferris it would be similar.
Your last comment about taking it to a dealer is to simplistic.
I have to move this beast with no power to the drives onto a trailer. Or pay a fortune to have them pick it up.
You would have thought someone would have paid attention to the area's of maintenance and repair.
It is built like a tank, but very little accessability to the things that will most likely go first.

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No, I don’t own a Ferris.
Will this help?

Thanks for your thoughts,
No, I've been through all of this stuff.
I need someone who owns one of these.
They made so many models and all are different.

Maybe someone will come along to help you out.

neighborbill said:

Thanks for your thoughts,
No, I've been through all of this stuff.
I need someone who owns one of these.
They made so many models and all are different.

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As stated, reinstalling the drive belt, or installing a new one should be doable, and not take three days worth of trying. Because this zero turn is brand new, and you probably paid around $20,000 for it, why not call the dealer you bought it from and ask for help? Surely if they are a good business, they will figure out a way to help you. A stick getting wedged in belt and causing it to come off. No, this is not covered under warranty, but it would be good customer service by the Ferris dealer to help you. Call them and talk to them about it.

Tiger Small Engine said:

As stated, reinstalling the drive belt, or installing a new one should be doable, and not take three days worth of trying. Because this zero turn is brand new, and you probably paid around $20,000 for it, why not call the dealer you bought it from and ask for help? Surely if they are a good business, they will figure out a way to help you. A stick getting wedged in belt and causing it to come off. No, this is not covered under warranty, but it would be good customer service by the Ferris dealer to help you. Call them and talk to them about it.

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My experience with Ferris Dealers hasn't been good. Last year I had to take my cutter in because it wouldn't start. That dealer wouldn't give me my cutter back until the Ferris boys paid him. He said I didn't buy the cutter from them. I contacted Ferris and told them what happen. They told me that next time I should go to a different dealer.

This time I did exactly what you mentioned, only it was B&G owners of Ferris. They helped a little but said the same thing. You'll probably have to cut off the belt ($200.00 plus).

I bought it from a Dealer who is over 100 miles from me. They were super nice people. I'll most likely be taking it back there. Problem is with out power (no belt) I'll have to get it on a trailer somehow.

Did I mention, now the gear box is leaking oil. Definetly must go back.

neighborbill said:

My experience with Ferris Dealers hasn't been good. Last year I had to take my cutter in because it wouldn't start. That dealer wouldn't give me my cutter back until the Ferris boys paid him. He said I didn't buy the cutter from them. I contacted Ferris and told them what happen. They told me that next time I should go to a different dealer.

This time I did exactly what you mentioned, only it was B&G owners of Ferris. They helped a little but said the same thing. You'll probably have to cut off the belt ($200.00 plus).

I bought it from a Dealer who is over 100 miles from me. They were super nice people. I'll most likely be taking it back there. Problem is with out power (no belt) I'll have to get it on a trailer somehow.

Did I mention, now the gear box is leaking oil. Definetly must go back.

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I’m curious. Why did you choose a Ferris over some of the other brands out there?

MParr said:

I’m curious. Why did you choose a Ferris over some of the other brands out there?

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I had seen this machine about a year ago before I made the purchase. I had/have a Scags at the time and was thinking that it was time to start looking for a new machine.
My first choice was another Scags. I wanted a diesel though with the next purchase. I priced out the Scags diesel and was shocked at the asking prices. I started calling dealers. No one would budge off of MSRP and some wanted more. Some dealers didn't even have any to purchase and would have to be ordered.
I went to the Internet.
Found the IS2600Z Ferris on sale at the place I bought it (100 plus miles away). Their price was $21,394.00 and a Clearance price of $19,995.00. Told them about my searches and said that I requested their best price and would make the purchase is I thought it was good. They came back with $16,500.00
How could I turn that down. Got my Diesel, 61 inch cut, and a great price.
I didn't do my homework like I should have. Don't get me wrong, the Ferris is a tank. But now that I am into fixing and maintaining it, I question whether I made a good decision.
Long story, but you asked.

neighborbill said:

I had seen this machine about a year ago before I made the purchase. I had/have a Scags at the time and was thinking that it was time to start looking for a new machine.
My first choice was another Scags. I wanted a diesel though with the next purchase. I priced out the Scags diesel and was shocked at the asking prices. I started calling dealers. No one would budge off of MSRP and some wanted more. Some dealers didn't even have any to purchase and would have to be ordered.
I went to the Internet.
Found the IS2600Z Ferris on sale at the place I bought it (100 plus miles away). Their price was $21,394.00 and a Clearance price of $19,995.00. Told them about my searches and said that I requested their best price and would make the purchase is I thought it was good. They came back with $16,500.00
How could I turn that down. Got my Diesel, 61 inch cut, and a great price.
I didn't do my homework like I should have. Don't get me wrong, the Ferris is a tank. But now that I am into fixing and maintaining it, I question whether I made a good decision.
Long story, but you asked.

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Thanks for answering.
I don’t see many diesel zero turns in SW Georgia. Those that I do see are either Kubota or John Deere. Every now and then I see a Grasshopper.

MParr said:

Thanks for answering.
I don’t see many diesel zero turns in SW Georgia. Those that I do see are either Kubota or John Deere. Every now and then I see a Grasshopper.

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I can’t believe they dropped the purchase price $4500 off of retail. You should remember this as you are going through all this aggregation with the drive belt.

MParr said:

Thanks for answering.
I don’t see many diesel zero turns in SW Georgia. Those that I do see are either Kubota or John Deere. Every now and then I see a Grasshopper.

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John Deere uses the Yanmar diesel. Same thing that I have in the Ferris. I've had very good experience with Yanmar. Those engines like Kubota will last a life time.

Tiger Small Engine said:

I can’t believe they dropped the purchase price $4500 off of retail. You should remember this as you are going through all this aggregation with the drive belt.

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I couldn't believe it either. Hence the purchase.

What is the model from the serial number tag? The one I looked up is simple to remove but yours might be a different setup. But it is a double belt setup.

StarTech said:

What is the model from the serial number tag? The one I looked up is simple to remove but yours might be a different setup. But it is a double belt setup.

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model 5901929
serial 4002184515

Okay now things are clearer. There is two sets of drive belts. One is the double belt setup the engine to the right angle gear box and the one belt that drives the two hydrostatic transaxles.

The engine to right angle is the easiest to change. The right angle to transaxles is a lot harder. Two things must be removed. One is the spring that goes from moving idler arm to frame. The other is the PTO clutch. Then you should be to remove the drive without cutting it. The installation is the reverse making you use some anti-seize compound as you re-install the PTO clutch. Having a tool to unhook the idler spring is a plus.

Other than it is basic ZTR drive belt replacement. The only issue I see might be getting the belt off the transaxle pulleys as some ZTRs have very little clearance between the pulleys and the frame so in those cases the units must be loosen to slip the belt off and on.

The key here is taking your time as it is time consuming work especially the first time you do it. This setup is a little different than most ZTRs with the additional two stationary idler pulleys. Also you finding why the shops have so many jacks and jack stands so we can safely work on these mowers.

StarTech said:

Okay now things are clearer. There is two sets of drive belts. One is the double belt setup the engine to the right angle gear box and the one belt that drives the two hydrostatic transaxles.

The engine to right angle is the easiest to change. The right angle to transaxles is a lot harder. Two things must be removed. One is the spring that goes from moving idler arm to frame. The other is the PTO clutch. Then you should be to remove the drive without cutting it. The installation is the reverse making you use some anti-seize compound as you re-install the PTO clutch. Having a tool to unhook the idler spring is a plus.

Other than it is basic ZTR drive belt replacement. The only issue I see might be getting the belt off the transaxle pulleys as some ZTRs have very little clearance between the pulleys and the frame so in those cases the units must be loosen to slip the belt off and on.

The key here is taking your time as it is time consuming work especially the first time you do it. This setup is a little different than most ZTRs with the additional two stationary idler pulleys. Also you finding why the shops have so many jacks and jack stands so we can safely work on these mowers.

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Not sure exactly what you are saying. Here is what I have. There are two belts but only one is for the hydrostatic transaxles. the other belt is for the deck.
The hydro belt is on top of the clutch the deck belt fits on same shaft but is on the clutch. You must remove the deck belt off of the pulley before you can get the upper drive belt off. Next you need to disconnect the power line to the clutch and disconnect the rubber piece that connects to the frame and to the clutch. Now you are suppose to be able to slip the upper belt off. I could not get the upper belt past the frame and the clutch pulley. So I dropped the clutch and took off the belt.
So far so good. From here on out the belt is loop around both hydro's , idler's, and spring tension bolt.
the belt should feed (from the rear) from drive to the pulley that has the spring tension on it and the stationary pulley to its right.
There is an arm that is across those two pulleys. That belt should go underneath that arm. It's not.
It is on the left hand side of the spring tension pulley.
How the heck jumped out of that track I have no idea.
The simplest thing to do (as it looks) is to remove the arm and put the belt underneath it.
I tried to remove that arm. However, it is attached with a nylon nut and when you try to remove it the bolt spins with it.
Getting at that bolt is impossible. There is no room to put a wrench on the bolt and turn the nut off.

StarTech said:

View attachment 68672
View attachment 68674

View attachment 68673

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I have these pictures. This is exactly the same.
Part number 11 is the arm that I mentioned. The belt must go under the arm and some how mine is now on top.
Taking that arm off is impossible so far.
Putting a new belt on would allow the feed of the belt under the arm.
Waiting for the new $200 belt before I cut off the old one.

I've ordered a special thin long 3/8 wrench that should fit under the pulley that i've talked about in my messages.
If it works, I'll be able to reroute the belt.
Amazon says they'll deliver tomorrow. Wouldn't that be wonderful if it works.

Will dropping the deck allow you easier access?

Are you sure you not confusing thread size with the hex size? A 3/8-16 hex screw normally has a 9/16 wrench size.

StarTech said:

Are you sure you not confusing thread size with the hex size? A 3/8-16 hex screw normally has a 9/16 wrench size.

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5025013X22 1 BOLT, 3/8-16 X 2-3/4" GD5 CZ
This is what the parts book says.

MParr said:

Will dropping the deck allow you easier access?

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Funny you should say that. I was looking at what it would take to do that this morning
I am contemplating that as an option too.

neighborbill said:

5025013X22 1 BOLT, 3/8-16 X 2-3/4" GD5 CZ
This is what the parts book says.

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I thought that the head on that bolt looked aweful big for a 3/8 wrench.
I'm 77 and still learning things that I didn't know.
Now I'm going to have a nice long 3/8 wrench.

neighborbill said:

You would have thought someone would have paid attention to the area's of maintenance and repair.

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They dont pay engineers for that any more. My brother in law who works on cars always reminds me that those things we call quick disconnects are not that at all...they are quick connects to make assembly line work faster and as mistake free as they can, some of those things are almost impossible to get at for disassembly. Nothing is about servicing when its being built. Its all about saving pennies for faster assembly and sales. Thats what they hire the engineers for. They have no care about how how difficult service is as they expect you will be paying someone for that too and its just more (of your) money for everyone else!

MParr said:

If you can’t get it off and decide to cut it, how will you get the new belt on?
You are going to have to remove the deck belt first.
You are then going to have to unplug your PTO clutch and remove the PTO anti-rotation bolt.
You are then going to release the tension spring on the hydraulic drive tensioner pulley.
Now, you are ready to remove the belt. Replace in reverse manner.
I know that this video isn’t for your mower. However, the procedure is similar.
The other option is to load it up and take it to the dealer.

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Thank you! I'm yelling at the suggestion to "cut it off".....

RevB said:

Thank you! I'm yelling at the suggestion to "cut it off".....

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This is the closest video that I have found on this subject. I've watched it several times.
Best way I can think of telling you about putting it back on. The belt is trapped now and disassembly is necessary to get it out.
When You install the new one, it gets routed differently so that it is not trapped the same way. Disassembly is the problem now. You can't get to the area that needs to be removed.
Had the belt broken, it would have been easy to get out.
lf I were just replacing and it wasn't trapped like it is, then it would be easy.
My friend is back from vacation. He will be coming over soon. If he concludes the problem like I have, then we'll cut it off. Putting the new in will take two people. One on the bottom and one on the top. Push/pull.
Need the new belt first. Dealer now says there is a delay in the shipping process? Briggs tells me all the belts have been used up for the season by landscapers. New ones are on their way.
Local dealers for Ferris don't want to work on the machine because it wasn't purchased there. Briggs (Ferris) says they can't make the dealer work on it if they don't want to. "But it's still under warranty"
I'll have to take it back to the original dealer. Not what I was told when I bought the machine.

neighborbill said:

I thought that the head on that bolt looked aweful big for a 3/8 wrench.
I'm 77 and still learning things that I didn't know.
Now I'm going to have a nice long 3/8 wrench.

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It's a 3/8" bolt...the head could be anything. The spec does not say 3/8" head.....

neighborbill said:

About a week ago my brand new Ferris IS2600Z Diesel threw a drive belt do to a branch that wedged up into the belt and pulley . I could not move back or forward. I got a look and saw that the drive belt (top belt) not the deck belt came off of the pulley. So the hydraulics were not working.
The belt is still in good shape and all I want to do is take it off. I have a new belt coming, but the one that is on is still in pretty good shape . the branch didn't do to much damage.
For three days, I've been trying to remove the belt rather then cutting it off.
If you have this machine and have tried to get the belt off let me know how you did it.
I've been in contact with B&S who makes Ferris and they don't know how to get my belt off either. Their answer..... cut it off.
I've been to all the sites for Ferris. Apparently, this model isn't the most popular one.
I think I'm the only one who bought one.

Click to expand...

Go here - match up your units model & s/n

neighborbill said:

About a week ago my brand new Ferris IS2600Z Diesel threw a drive belt do to a branch that wedged up into the belt and pulley . I could not move back or forward. I got a look and saw that the drive belt (top belt) not the deck belt came off of the pulley. So the hydraulics were not working.
The belt is still in good shape and all I want to do is take it off. I have a new belt coming, but the one that is on is still in pretty good shape . the branch didn't do to much damage.
For three days, I've been trying to remove the belt rather then cutting it off.
If you have this machine and have tried to get the belt off let me know how you did it.
I've been in contact with B&S who makes Ferris and they don't know how to get my belt off either. Their answer..... cut it off.
I've been to all the sites for Ferris. Apparently, this model isn't the most popular one.
I think I'm the only one who bought one.

Click to expand...

try going here - https://www.ferrismowers.com/na/en_...s.productmanuals.html?searchrequested=5901475
match up your Model # & S/N to the proper Operator Manual.
then probably go to page 38 .....

I am finally through with this whole disaster of belt change.
If any one wants I'll go through everything that I had to do I'll do it.
My freind and I worked on this Ferris for 4 hours today. Both of us guessing what to do.
It is working now at the end of several hours of swearing and knuckle busting moves.
The belts can't be replaced with one person it takes two.
If you have an Is2600Z Ferris, it is a beast to change the Hyro drive belt on. Deck belt is a piece of cake.
One of the biggest obsticles is the battery holder. Taking it out is a risk. leaving it in blocks all vision and accessess as to what to do.
I am so exahusted that this is all I want to do for now.

neighborbill said:

I am finally through with this whole disaster of belt change.
If any one wants I'll go through everything that I had to do I'll do it.
My freind and I worked on this Ferris for 4 hours today. Both of us guessing what to do.
It is working now at the end of several hours of swearing and knuckle busting moves.
The belts can't be replaced with one person it takes two.
If you have an Is2600Z Ferris, it is a beast to change the Hyro drive belt on. Deck belt is a piece of cake.
One of the biggest obsticles is the battery holder. Taking it out is a risk. leaving it in blocks all vision and accessess as to what to do.
I am so exahusted that this is all I want to do for now.

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I’m glad that you finally got it. Did you have to remove the mower deck?

We came close to dropping it. But did not. Mike (my friend) is younger and a lot stronger then I am . He was able to pull on the idler so hard while I was able to jamb it from moving back. He was able then to slip the belt back under that pulley, where it belonged. This was only able to happen because he is strong and young. We spent the next two to three hours trying to put the belt back on under tension. Since that pulley is under the battery box you cannot use that spot for the last place to slip the belt on. Instead he went back to that idler pulley with spring on it, gave it a pull like only he could and I saw in the back under the cuttler slipping it on over the pulley mounted on the clutch shaft.
New old belt was still in good shape and I hope it lasts a long time. New belt still arriving in a few days.

One last note. We didn't try it but maybe by removing the battery box with the six bolts and two pistons attached to it, there would have been adequate area to do it like the book says.
So for now, this is the end of this long story. I tried it and it is working good again.

Now I'll be able to drive it back on my trailer and haul it off to a dealer who will do the warranty work on the transmission box that is leaking oil.

neighborbill said:

We came close to dropping it. But did not. Mike (my friend) is younger and a lot stronger then I am . He was able to pull on the idler so hard while I was able to jamb it from moving back. He was able then to slip the belt back under that pulley, where it belonged. This was only able to happen because he is strong and young. We spent the next two to three hours trying to put the belt back on under tension. Since that pulley is under the battery box you cannot use that spot for the last place to slip the belt on. Instead he went back to that idler pulley with spring on it, gave it a pull like only he could and I saw in the back under the cuttler slipping it on over the pulley mounted on the clutch shaft.
New old belt was still in good shape and I hope it lasts a long time. New belt still arriving in a few days.

One last note. We didn't try it but maybe by removing the battery box with the six bolts and two pistons attached to it, there would have been adequate area to do it like the book says.
So for now, this is the end of this long story. I tried it and it is working good again.

Now I'll be able to drive it back on my trailer and haul it off to a dealer who will do the warranty work on the transmission box that is leaking oil.

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Curious, how many hours are on your mower ... ?

Honest Abe said:

Curious, how many hours are on your mower ... ?

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Less then 30 hours

neighborbill said:

Less then 30 hours

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Ouch - I've got about 850 on mine and (crossing my fingers) the only issue has been the PTO switch went bad, kind of expected after a while... and well, there was that morning that I kind of buried it clear up to the frame thinking I could make it through a wet area. Yikes, when I stepped off even I sunk up to my ankles .....

So your belts have lasted 850 hours ?
Once I get this transaxial box fixed I'll be looking for another life with this IS2600Z

neighborbill said:

We came close to dropping it. But did not. Mike (my friend) is younger and a lot stronger then I am . He was able to pull on the idler so hard while I was able to jamb it from moving back. He was able then to slip the belt back under that pulley, where it belonged. This was only able to happen because he is strong and young. We spent the next two to three hours trying to put the belt back on under tension. Since that pulley is under the battery box you cannot use that spot for the last place to slip the belt on. Instead he went back to that idler pulley with spring on it, gave it a pull like only he could and I saw in the back under the cuttler slipping it on over the pulley mounted on the clutch shaft.
New old belt was still in good shape and I hope it lasts a long time. New belt still arriving in a few days.

One last note. We didn't try it but maybe by removing the battery box with the six bolts and two pistons attached to it, there would have been adequate area to do it like the book says.
So for now, this is the end of this long story. I tried it and it is working good again.

Now I'll be able to drive it back on my trailer and haul it off to a dealer who will do the warranty work on the transmission box that is leaking oil.

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Next time remove tensioner spring, install belt, and reinstall spring and it will be easier.

Tiger Small Engine said:

Next time remove tensioner spring, install belt, and reinstall spring and it will be easier.

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You don't have one of these do you. Or your reading from a book not actually doing it.

neighborbill said:

You don't have one of these do you. Or your reading from a book not actually doing it.

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A piece of 1/4” braided nylon cord or rope makes a good spring removal/install tool.

I'll have to look in my shop; but, I think the manual package had a "Tool" inside for hooking on to the idler arm and pulling to release the tension so the belt can be taken off or put on .. .. .. I'll see what I can find.........

I'd like to know more about that.
Thanks

MParr said:

A piece of 1/4” braided nylon cord or rope makes a good spring removal/install tool.

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Not sure how you mean to use it.

neighborbill said:

Not sure how you mean to use it.

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Never mind. The cord works great on the deck tension springs.

neighborbill said:

You don't have one of these do you. Or your reading from a book not actually doing it.

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I do own a Ferris 60” zero turn, and a Scag as well. The point is, I have worked on enough mowers to know there is a tensioner pulley on the drive belt on a zero turn, and a stiff spring gives it tension. I have a spring removal tool, but sometimes you have to use a ratchet strap and wire because the spring tension is too great.

Tiger Small Engine said:

I do own a Ferris 60” zero turn, and a Scag as well. The point is, I have worked on enough mowers to know there is a tensioner pulley on the drive belt on a zero turn, and a stiff spring gives it tension. I have a spring removal tool, but sometimes you have to use a ratchet strap and wire because the spring tension is too great.

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And, some tensioning pulley assemblies have a square hole to accept a 1/2” pull handle and extension.

There has been so much discussion here that the real problem is getting lost.
After the tension "I" bolt to spring has been released and the belt has been mounted around everything except for the last pulley now comes the part where all the nice idea's are coming but the problem is..... you can't get to the pulley to stretch the belt around. It is buried under the battery box. You can't hardly see it, the spring, nor the eye bolt.
The way that the two of us finally got it on was with me in the back trying to slip the belt on the axel pulley while him buddy somehow got a hold of the tension pulley and pulled like hell. After that , we tightened the nut on the Eye Bolt for additional tension on the spring.
We did take off the nut from the eye bolt. (book said dont'). If we had I don't that we would have ever got it back into the position where it was. This is just one hell of a poor design.

More.... After you have loosened the spring tension, you are supposed to tighten the bolt until the spring is "Seven" inches long.
Who writes this stuff. You can't see the spring, it's buried under the battery compartment.

After looking over the IPL it kinda looks like the battery and battery box has to be remove to access the spring area. As said it appears to be a poor design maintenance wise. Sorta like ATVs where you got a part a lot parts off just to get the carburetor out to service it. I spent over 1.5 hours just removing the carburetor and now after I cleaned and repaired carb it is going to at least another hour to get things back in place just to test things.

I am looking at ways to make removal of that battery box easier. The way that it is mounted in there, you would think that it was part of the frame support. Not just someplace to store the battery.

I am looking at ways to make removal of that battery box easier. The way that it is mounted in there, you would think that it was

neighborbill said:

I am looking at ways to make removal of that battery box easier. The way that it is mounted in there, you would think that it was part of the frame support. Not just someplace to store the battery.

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Everythng is back up and working
Putting the Deck belt on is not that hard.
putting the drive belt on is a different story.
Oil continues to leak from the top of the gear box. Pressure relief valve.
I've been using my "Max Jax" to lift and lower this unit. Without the lift I can't imagine how you would perform this operation.

neighborbill said:

I am looking at ways to make removal of that battery box easier. The way that it is mounted in there, you would think that it was

Everythng is back up and working
Putting the Deck belt on is not that hard.
putting the drive belt on is a different story.
Oil continues to leak from the top of the gear box. Pressure relief valve.
I've been using my "Max Jax" to lift and lower this unit. Without the lift I can't imagine how you would perform this operation.

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It is not uncommon when you do repairs to have to remove one or more parts to do the repair. It is not uncommon for space to be very tight and limited when working on ATVs and small engine equipment. It is not uncommon to have a poor line of sight as well.