Boy just got in this Kawasaki 3010 Mule with the above engine. Grey muck running out the air intake along the engine being grey muck. Boy what a mess. Another DIYer screwed up repair job. Might get a look at it later today or sometime this week.
What are your initial thoughts on that one. Ran without oil and full of aluminum particles or went swimming.
#3
StarTech
Well since it had plain water in the cooling system, all bets are off. But it has about two gallons of the following muck. It was coming out every where it could. It slowly dripping out of drain hole for the last two hours and I only got about a quart out so far.
#4
Hammermechanicman
I bet by the time you are done you will wish they took it somewhere else.
#5
StarTech
Already there...As it is going to be a major Pita to remove the engine and it needs removing to tear down to clean the internals. 6 Hrs and the oil is still draining. Thicker than cold molasses. On this problem both front CV axles needs repairing. At least the rear axle u-joints looks good. So I don't need to pull that Kubota style rear end assy.
Looking more like I need to get that gantry crane that I have been putting off buying if I keep doing this kind of work.
Boy this year's startup season has been an ugly for me. Nearly everything is a major repair except that loose blade yesterday.
That is the horizontal shaft water cooled engine. make sure to pull the short coolant bypass hose between the water pump and the thermostat housing when fulling otherwise it will air lock the system and not self purge.
#7
StarTech
Thanks to the tip. It is the first one for me to see.
I have done 2 on JD 445's and one on a Gator 6x6 over the years. And if you don't pull off the bypass hose and let the block and water pump fill, it will overheat before it purges.
That Polaris Ranger I was working on a couple of months ago required raising up the front of the UTV about a foot off the ground, remove the radiator cap, and then loosen a bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing is above the top of the radiator and will not self purge.
#9
Hammermechanicman
I have an engine hoist that gets used about twice a year to pull the heavy stuff. I am still able to just pickup air cooled twins.
If that engine was built before '98 it may have the notorious plastic cam shaft. If it does replace it. It WILL fail. I have done a few of them. I recommend the full cam rebuild kit. Is the muck in The crankcase oil and water? Also known as the $h!t milkshake. If so you might get lucky with a blown head gasket and not a cracked block. Hope you quoted a couple thousand to fix it.
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#10
Hammermechanicman
Here is my latest PITA project. It is a fairly rare Hunter. They were made locally on hunter ave in Dayton ohio. A guy collects stuff like this. I get to bring it back to life. He was assured from the guy he bought it from that it runs. Well that was BS. Wiring hacked up as well as all the linkages and stuff in a box they took off plus no documentation. This is the third one like this he has brought me. He pays well and never questions the bill.
#11
Scrubcadet10
He ought to be okay on the plastic cams, kawasaki didn't release the 3010 until 2001....
Around 97 and 98 they were focusing on the 2510 and 550 compact models.