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exmark quest

#1

J

jmrollans

I have an Exmark Quest that is having starting issues. When I turn the key to start all i hear is a clicking sound, thought the starter was bad, changed it and have the same issue, replaced the starter solenoid, nope same issue. Checked the voltage on the battery, dropped from 12.9 to 7.8 when i turn key, replaced the battery thought had a bad cell, not the problem still have same issue. I feel like i am chasing my tail now and not getting anywhere! any help would be appreicated!


#2

R

Rivets

Have you checked to see that all connections are very clean and tight, especially the ground cable to frame connection.


#3

StarTech

StarTech

Yelp need down where the massive voltage drop is occurring using voltage drop tests.I have cables to be bad internally but still looked good externally.


#4

J

jmrollans

Rivets said:
Have you checked to see that all connections are very clean and tight, especially the ground cable to frame connection.
Click to expand...
i have checked the connections they appear to be all tight. i did not see a ground cable that attached to the frame, just a ground cable from the battery to the engine block???


#5

R

Rivets

Engine block or frame, either one will provide a return route. Appear to be tight and clean and tight are two different things. As I taught my students when troubleshooting electrical problems. NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING, AND ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING.


#6

O

olie01

Use a jumper cable from battery to starter and see if starter turns, if this works then you have a cable problem.


#7

J

jmrollans

ok will try that and see, thank you


#8

J

jmrollans

update on my issue, I tested the ground and it ohm good. tried the jumper cable idea and it didnt work. when i turn the key to start the relay by fuseblock clicks. is that realy part of the starting system?


#9

StarTech

StarTech

You know it might help if we knew which model you have of the 74 Quest models so someone can look-up the wiring schematics.

From Partstree
1702477341503.png


#10

J

jmrollans

QST24BE522, 731614


#11

StarTech

StarTech

Yes the relay is part of the starting system. Actually it is a lockout relay.

Temporarily find the ground side of the starter solenoid and ground it to the frame and test to see if the starter solenoid will operate the starter.

But that voltage drop you reported is worrisome indicates either poor connection or large short somewhere.


#12

J

jmrollans

I ohm'ed all the ground from the battery to the engine block and it was good. is there another ground somewhere? I still have the same issue when i turn the key switch all i get is a clicking sound by the relay and the voltage from the battery drops. is there another ground on this mower besides the one from the battery to the block?


#13

R

Rivets

A dirty or loose connection will cause a drop in voltage. If the battery voltage drops below 10 VDC when trying to start your battery is bad, as at least one cell is corrupted. Time to replace it.


#14

StarTech

StarTech

Ever thought that it might not a grounding issue but positive side issue? A lot bad wiring will test good with an ohms meter as the meter is a low current tester. Faulty connections may only show under load which why you have switch over testing to voltage drop testing when have problems like one. IE: A bad that has internally corroded terminal can read good with an ohms meter but has a large voltage drop under load as the current demand is much higher and the resistance of the corrode increases. Normally a 5 foot battery has only a very small voltage across it length but when a corrode terminal is involved that same may show several volts across its length.

A good example here would the customer that change everything in the starting circuit but the wiring because the ohms said the harness was good. Well it turn out to be a fifty cent Delphi terminal that just barely making contact and then opened up under normal loads. He had spend well over $300 trying the problem to only find if had brought it into the shop it would cost $50.


#15

J

jmrollans

StarTech said:
Ever thought that it might not a grounding issue but positive side issue? A lot bad wiring will test good with an ohms meter as the meter is a low current tester. Faulty connections may only show under load which why you have switch over testing to voltage drop testing when have problems like one. IE: A bad that has internally corroded terminal can read good with an ohms meter but has a large voltage drop under load as the current demand is much higher and the resistance of the corrode increases. Normally a 5 foot battery has only a very small voltage across it length but when a corrode terminal is involved that same may show several volts across its length.

A good example here would the customer that change everything in the starting circuit but the wiring because the ohms said the harness was good. Well it turn out to be a fifty cent Delphi terminal that just barely making contact and then opened up under normal loads. He had spend well over $300 trying the problem to only find if had brought it into the shop it would cost $50.
Click to expand...
ok, i appreciate all the advice and knowledge that has been given by all. Decided to back up 10 and punt, putting in mechanic shop tomorrow!


#16

StarTech

StarTech

There is no shame asking for local professional help. We can only guide you so far as personally I need things in my hand at times. Just hope the shop you carry it to has the knowledge and experience to do the work. I say this because several shops in my area just fake it when comes to electrical work.


#17

L

lowmow

Where are you measuring the battery voltage?On the battery post itself or on the cable connector on the battery post?Use the battery post itself,not the cable at the battery.
Hold the key on for a minute or so, and feel for a warm or hot connection on all connection points.The inside of the battery cable connector may be corroded and not visible, just a dull grey color.Clean the inside of both negative and positive terminals with emery cloth,or a battery post connector cleaner(cheap) until they are shiny, but if a lot of current is passing through it,it will be warm to the touch.Remove the battery ground and clean it down to new clean metal also.Do not assume that it is a good connection just because it is tight.Corrosion can occur between two dissimilar metals,like the aluminum block and the ground connector cable.Put a star washer on both side of the connector to ensure a good "bite" into the metal.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/410xYxIg9-L._AC_.jpg (battery post cleaner)

Star washer below.Should be available at a hardware store..get stainless steel if possible.
1702737482902.jpeg


#18

F

Freddie21

If you have put the battery directly across the starter and it does not turn, it suggests you have a very tight component. You have swapped the starter so that could be eliminated. Can you turn the engine 360 degrees by hand? Remove the spark plug and try this again. If freely turns, then try jumping across the starter again. If this is good, try using the internal battery and the key to see if it turns.

You may have an issue where the starter gear is being jammed on the fly wheel. You may have an internal jam inside the engine such as a bent push rod. Is the PTO belt on and putting a load on the crank shaft when the key is turned? What was the mower doing when this stated? Cutting or sitting idle?


#19

T

Timbo37

The motor is not locked up right? Did you put the jumper from the car ground on the battery ground and positive on the starter side of of the relay/solenoid to bypass it so you know if the internal of the replay is not causing problem?

If it does nothing move the positive to the starter connection on the starter and if it doesn't spin the starter can try tapping on the starter while its hooked up to see if the brushes are connecting.


#20

T

tcnrepairs

Check your battery!


#21

A

Affordable in Indy

Did you figure it out? If not, are you sure you aren't getting power to the starter? Maybe it just seems like the starter isn't doing anything because the engine won't spin for one reason or another. I've seen this happen for different reasons: a seized PTO, compression release failure and from piston rings getting stuck on cylinder damage. Can you spin the flywheel by hand?


#22

L

lugbolt

don't use ohm test, use voltage drop test. It's completely different than an ohm test.

as another poster said, never assume anything. The word 'assume' is an acronym for "make an A&& out of u and me".


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