Severe amount of white smoke problem is this winter I rebuilt it split sump everything looked great new head gaskets and the valves were lapped to remove little pitting today I put the engine back on and it is still smoking like last year I have checked the read valve seems to be working as it should I am at a loss I unscrewed the oil dip stick and cranked it over and oil shot out the tube so I pulled the flywheel and the breather I do t see a clog anywhere I am so confused on this any info would be great
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Export threadTo me it’s a classic example of a blown head gasket. Since you say you had the heads off I suspect 1 of 3 causes. Head and block surfaces not cleaned properly or head warped. Reused the head gaskets, that’s a NO, NO. Head gaskets not torqued in proper sequence or torque.
All were done to spec I always use scotch Brite pads remove everything and brand new gaskets I never reuse and I torqued to the exmark spec I just ran it for 40 minutes sounds good but smoke it would clear up the hit again and I burnt from full to fill level I am going to do another leak dow tonight this machine has been keeping me up at nights I don't like when I can't figure things outTo me it’s a classic example of a blown head gasket. Since you say you had the heads off I suspect 1 of 3 causes. Head and block surfaces not cleaned properly or head warped. Reused the head gaskets, that’s a NO, NO. Head gaskets not torqued in proper sequence or torque.
When you remove a head, you must lap the head and block area where the head sits. It's all in the prep. You don't clean the area and toss on a new gasket.
Every head I've pulled from 2hp to say 22hp, all were warped. 220, 400 and 800 grit on the garage door window. Let the paper do the work. No need to push hard while lapping. You will quickly see how warped it is.
Last a triple bolt torque regime should be followed. And after running once or twice retorque the bolts a few times. Only takes a minute.
Every head I've pulled from 2hp to say 22hp, all were warped. 220, 400 and 800 grit on the garage door window. Let the paper do the work. No need to push hard while lapping. You will quickly see how warped it is.
Last a triple bolt torque regime should be followed. And after running once or twice retorque the bolts a few times. Only takes a minute.
When you remove a head, you must lap the head and block area where the head sits. It's all in the prep. You don't clean the area and toss on a new gasket.
Every head I've pulled from 2hp to say 22hp, all were warped. 220, 400 and 800 grit on the garage door window. Let the paper do the work. No need to push hard while lapping. You will quickly see how warped it is.
Last a triple bolt torque regime should be followed. And after running once or twice retorque the bolts a few times. Only takes a minute.
You know those are abrasive right? You are cleaning aluminum parts. Scrapping or sanding is your last resort. Lacquer thinner, glass cleaner and such are good to start off with. Razor blades and such, huge no-no.I always use scotch Brite pads remove everything
I do the 3 phase torque on heads as you say quick and why not I do not do sanding I guess I should try that from now on I do know the guys at the machine shop very well never ranyo this just did a compression test and I am at 112 and 110 but my tester i have little faith in I have to grab my friends spendy one in the morning and recheck
This would be the first trouble I have had using them I use the thinner and move it back and forth with little pressure until cleanYou know those are abrasive right? You are cleaning aluminum parts. Scrapping or sanding is your last resort. Lacquer thinner, glass cleaner and such are good to start off with. Razor blades and such, huge no-no.
After some talk with my friend i think I left out a big part when the dipstick is removed it will shoot oil out for a distance so I do believe and agree with my friend that the rings are somewhat compromised I will be removing and disassembling again and will inform the forum