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Exhaust Valve spring retainer model FC401V-CS03 FC401

#1

C

Cfs

I am attempting to repair an old Ferris 36 inch walk behind. It has a Kawasaki FC401v engine. I removed the head and found both push rods not in contact with the rocker arms, and that the exhaust valve was stuck. I removed the head and removed the exhaust valve cleaned up the valve shaft and lapped the valve into the seat on the head. However when I removed the exhaust valve the spring keeper went flying and was lost. I ordered a new keeper part number 12009-2058 and it does not seem to fit. The keeper has the key hole type of attachment to the valve...a larger hole and a smaller ho!e. The outside diameter seems correct and the overall configuration of the keeper seems correct but I cannot get the valve to fit ino the smaller ho!e. The tip of the valve fits into the larger hole but it cannot slide into the center of the smaller. The hole seems too small. I checked the diameter of the valve at the long where the keeper attaches and it measures 4.8mm. I checked the diameter of the smaller hole and it measures 4.8 mm but because of the way the small hole connect to the larger hole the valve shaft cannot fit into the hole.

I will post some photos later tonight. I have checked the part number with two dealers and A couple of websites Jacks Small Engines being one and the part number seems correct. The metal on the keeper is so thick I do not see anyway to make this work. I am reluctant to dremel away any metal to make it fit. Has anyone else had a issue like this and know what I should do. I am going over to a John Deere dealer tomorrow with the parts to see of they have any ideas I sure wish I could find the keeper that flew off!

Any comments greatly appreciated

SpitIMG_20250924_180643.jpgIMG_20250924_180722.jpgIMG_20250924_180813.jpg


#2

A

Auto Doc's

Hello Cfs,

While out of the head, can you slip the tip of the valve through the large hole down to where the groove is and then slip it on to the groove area?

If it fits correctly, then it is a matter of compressing the spring with the keeper offset far enough for the keeper to slip into the groove when compressed far enough.


#3

T

txmowman

Cfs said:
I am attempting to repair an old Ferris 36 inch walk behind. It has a Kawasaki FC401v engine. I removed the head and found both push rods not in contact with the rocker arms, and that the exhaust valve was stuck. I removed the head and removed the exhaust valve cleaned up the valve shaft and lapped the valve into the seat on the head. However when I removed the exhaust valve the spring keeper went flying and was lost. I ordered a new keeper part number 12009-2058 and it does not seem to fit. The keeper has the key hole type of attachment to the valve...a larger hole and a smaller ho!e. The outside diameter seems correct and the overall configuration of the keeper seems correct but I cannot get the valve to fit ino the smaller ho!e. The tip of the valve fits into the larger hole but it cannot slide into the center of the smaller. The hole seems too small. I checked the diameter of the valve at the long where the keeper attaches and it measures 4.8mm. I checked the diameter of the smaller hole and it measures 4.8 mm but because of the way the small hole connect to the larger hole the valve shaft cannot fit into the hole.

I will post some photos later tonight. I have checked the part number with two dealers and A couple of websites Jacks Small Engines being one and the part number seems correct. The metal on the keeper is so thick I do not see anyway to make this work. I am reluctant to dremel away any metal to make it fit. Has anyone else had a issue like this and know what I should do. I am going over to a John Deere dealer tomorrow with the parts to see of they have any ideas I sure wish I could find the keeper that flew off!

Any comments greatly appreciated

SpitView attachment 71940View attachment 71941View attachment 71942
Click to expand...
The part number is correct.
The overall width at the top is 25mm,
The overall height is 7.3mm,
The center hole is 5.1mm.
Was the part in an original Kawasaki package?
Where did you obtain the part?


#4

C

Cfs

Auto Doc's said:
Hello Cfs,

While out of the head, can you slip the tip of the valve through the large hole down to where the groove is and then slip it on to the groove area?

If it fits correctly, then it is a matter of compressing the spring with the keeper offset far enough for the keeper to slip into the groove when compressed far enough.
Click to expand...
No it will not fit into the smaller hole outside of the head…it is just too small of an opening. If you see the photo the placement of the smaller hole on the keeper it is not allowing the full 4.8 mm circumference valve to pass into it.
I do not know who I could check with at Kawasaki to review the specs/ measurements of the keeper
txmowman said:
The part number is correct.
The overall width at the top is 25mm,
The overall height is 7.3mm,
The center hole is 5.1mm.
Was the part in an original Kawasaki package?
Where did you obtain the part?
Click to expand...
I just checked the keeper. It is 25.2 km overall width. The height is 7.3 mm the center hole is 4.8 mm
I bought it from a reputable dealer here in the Columbus OH area, they ordered from their supplier who I assume was Kawasaki but it maybe through another distributor. The valve itself measures 7 mm at the top of the valve stem, and stands 92 mm tall, the diameter of groove that the keeper locks onto is 3.1 mm tall and the diameter is 4.8 mm.
The part was is a small zip lock bag and had a sticker with the part number on it. As you can see in the photos. The 2 holes in the keeper are stacked on each other like a snowman and the center hole (smaller one) has an opening that is maybe 5.1 mm. Its pretty hard to measure even using an electronic caliper.

I think it has to be a bad part wether it was made wrong or a bad substitution. I am going to visit the dealer tomorrow with the keeper, spring, valve and head and hopefully they can talk to their distributor and get me the right part.
I have looked all over my garage and side yard looking for the original keeper. I could kick myself for letting it fly off into the ether

Spit


#5

C

Cfs

Cfs said:
No it will not fit into the smaller hole outside of the head…it is just too small of an opening. If you see the photo the placement of the smaller hole on the keeper it is not allowing the full 4.8 mm circumference valve to pass into it.
I do not know who I could check with at Kawasaki to review the specs/ measurements of the keeper

I just checked the keeper. It is 25.2 km overall width. The height is 7.3 mm the center hole is 4.8 mm
I bought it from a reputable dealer here in the Columbus OH area, they ordered from their supplier who I assume was Kawasaki but it maybe through another distributor. The valve itself measures 7 mm at the top of the valve stem, and stands 92 mm tall, the diameter of groove that the keeper locks onto is 3.1 mm tall and the diameter is 4.8 mm.
The part was is a small zip lock bag and had a sticker with the part number on it. As you can see in the photos. The 2 holes in the keeper are stacked on each other like a snowman and the center hole (smaller one) has an opening that is maybe 5.1 mm. Its pretty hard to measure even using an electronic caliper.

I think it has to be a bad part wether it was made wrong or a bad substitution. I am going to visit the dealer tomorrow with the keeper, spring, valve and head and hopefully they can talk to their distributor and get me the right part.
I have looked all over my garage and side yard looking for the original keeper. I could kick myself for letting it fly off into the ether

Spit
Click to expand...
Correction: the most narrow part (the gate way between the larger outside hole and the center hole)
of the center hole is 4.1 mm not 5.1... If it was 5.1_it would fit in I think


#6

StarTech

StarTech

I think I see the problem

yours
1758794529184.png
And an image from eBay
1758794594041.png
Note the two sharp points on the part you receive that is not there on the eBay image. Yours might just need the points file off a little so the keyhole is straight and not indented.

What do you think txmowman ?


#7

T

txmowman

StarTech said:
I think I see the problem

yours
View attachment 71943
And an image from eBay
View attachment 71944
Note the two sharp points on the part you receive that is not there on the eBay image. Yours might just need the points file off a little so the keyhole is straight and not indented.

What do you think txmowman ?
Click to expand...
I believe you are spot on, @StarTech . The part @Cfs received is not a Kawasaki part. I’ve never known Kawasaki to use ziploc bags.


#8

StarTech

StarTech

I would like to see the part package label.

Here lately many of the aftermarket parts have been made wrong like the BB pulleys that I had shave off an eight of an inch just get them to clear the safety covers. Or the Toro dampers that had 5 mm on the ends instead 3.2 mm. Another thing that took nearly an hour to get the four down to 3.2 mm with a die grinder.


#9

C

Cfs

Auto Doc's said:
Hello Cfs,

While out of the head, can you slip the tip of the valve through the large hole down to where the groove is and then slip it on to the groove area?

If it fits correctly, then it is a matter of compressing the spring with the keeper offset far enough for the keeper to slip into the groove when compressed far enough.
Click to expand...
No it will not fit into the smaller hole outside of the head…it is just too small of an opening. If you see the photo the placement of the smaller hole on the keeper it is not allowing the full 4.8 mm circumference valve to pass into it.
I do not know who I could check with at Kawasaki to review the specs/ measurements of the keeper


#10

C

Cfs

I redoubled my efforts and searched the area where the keeper flew into..and I found the original keeper. It fits the valve perfectly. The original does not have the projections, whoever suggested that those needed to be filed or dremel-ed away was correct. I am going to use the original and I will see if the dealer will take the new defective on back. It was under $15 so it’s not the end of the world if they won’t take it back.

Another question. The head gasket that I found in the engine seems to be little more than a very thin stamped sheet of aluminum? Not at all like other head gaskets that I have seen on Briggs Tecumseh and Honda am I missing something here. I still need to reassemble the head to the crankcase and I am concerned that I have a good seal on the head. If this paper thin metal sheet is the head gasket is it reusable? Is there a good way for me to test the head when installed for an air tight seal?
Thanks to everyone for the help!!
Spit


#11

StarTech

StarTech

It is not aluminum, yes it is the normal gasket.

And if it was me, no I would not reuse it as it is already crushed.

For testing you use a leak down tester along with some soapy water. But if the leak down tester is under 20% things are usually leak tight as there is always leakage pass the rings.


#12

T

txmowman

StarTech said:
It is not aluminum, yes it is the normal gasket.

And if it was me, no I would not reuse it as it is already crushed.

For testing you use a leak down tester along with some soapy water. But if the leak down tester is under 20% things are usually leak tight as there is always leakage pass the rings.
Click to expand...
20% with 100psi of air put into the cylinder.


#13

StarTech

StarTech

I am so glad I have tester that operates under 20 psi and still gives accurate readings. It is great to be able to hand cycle an OHV to do a secondary leak down test that checks Mid and Lower cylinder conditions. I have seen those that test at only TDC to missing Mid and Lower cylinder problems. Can't do the same test on L-heads however.


#14

A

Auto Doc's

Hi StarTech,

They should all work under 20 psi if the regulator is lowered down to 0 psi and pressure gradually adjusted up once it is connected.


#15

StarTech

StarTech

Hmmm my HF one is set before attachment. Most are calibrated for 100 psi so percentage gauge would register right. All depends on the gauge pressure range used for the output side. HF one uses one that is in the 15 psi range where others uses 100 psi gauges.

Here it is set at 12 psi.

1759092503777.png


#16

C

Cfs

So I got the old valve keeper installed and had trouble getting it to run. I set the valve lash 3-4 times at .005 both valves. I must not be savy enough to get it right the 1st time.

Anybody want to share their process for setting valve lash on a OHV please do so.

I let it sit for 3-4 hours while I watched OSU vs Washington football game. Came back to it and found that the gas tank had emptied through the carb into the exhaust pipe to the muffler. I removed and cleaned the carb and tried to start it before calling it a night…sure that it wouldn’t start… Choked it pulled the rope and it popped . I took it off choke pulled it and it ran strong. It had a fair amount of smoke from the gas that got into the exhaust, but once that burned off it ran great and is not burning any oil. It seems like one pull with Choke on is all the choke it needs 2nd pull at mid speed setting and it starts right up!

I checked if the next morning and it fired right up! I swear sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good!!

The guy who owns it told me the only problem with it was it would shut off when engaging the blades. Said it would start right up. Maybe that was a problem a year ago, but the exhaust valve was stuck open and both push rods had come loose of the rocker arms and the gas in the gas tank was full of water. I always try to listen to and understand what an owner tells me about their machine’s problems.. but sometimes they are delusional
Spit


#17

sgkent

sgkent

as suggested replace the gasket, take the old one with you if you buy it locally. Also, use a machinists straight edge to check the head for warp.


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