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Engine shakes while engaging blades
#1
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Hello prior to posting this message I read numerous things about what could be wrong with when I engaged the mower deck blades the engine starts shaking and runs erratically.
But the question I have is can I remove both blades and go through all the same procedure engaging the PTO clutch and see if the engine shakes I mean is it okay to run the engine for 15-20 seconds without blades?
But it's an lt2000 42-in cutting with a 19.5 horsepower OHV engine.
I want to remove both blades to see if I can figure out if two sets of blades are both unbalanced there's some other thing going on.
Thanks,
Jim
But the question I have is can I remove both blades and go through all the same procedure engaging the PTO clutch and see if the engine shakes I mean is it okay to run the engine for 15-20 seconds without blades?
But it's an lt2000 42-in cutting with a 19.5 horsepower OHV engine.
I want to remove both blades to see if I can figure out if two sets of blades are both unbalanced there's some other thing going on.
Thanks,
Jim
#2
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
It will be find to run the deck without blades, But I would start by making sure the motor mount bolts are tight. only takes 1/8 turn loose to allow the motor to wobble on the frame. Normallly occurs when the engine is started, when the engine is shut down, and when the engine is subject to uneven load.
#3
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Excellent suggestion thank you I failed to add when I was using the tractor it started struggling after like about a minute when I didn't know what was going on and I just disengaged the blades that was a few days ago it starts running rough and it sounds like the engine wants to quit this situation never happened before with this lt2000 but thanks again.It will be find to run the deck without blades, But I would start by making sure the motor mount bolts are tight. only takes 1/8 turn loose to allow the motor to wobble on the frame. Normallly occurs when the engine is started, when the engine is shut down, and when the engine is subject to uneven load.
Jim
#4
J
JimP2014
I just uploaded this video a few minutes ago if you want to see what the side view looks like while the blades are engaged so this would be on the left side of the mower
J
JimP2014
Excellent suggestion thank you I failed to add when I was using the tractor it started struggling after like about a minute when I didn't know what was going on and I just disengaged the blades that was a few days ago it starts running rough and it sounds like the engine wants to quit this situation never happened before with this lt2000 but thanks again.
Jim
I just uploaded this video a few minutes ago if you want to see what the side view looks like while the blades are engaged so this would be on the left side of the mower
#5
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I just ran the Lt 2000 without the mower deck engaged the blades are still on but without even engaging the blades I noticed there's white smoke coming out of the air filter and there's some oil that I thought I solved spraying around on the oil filler tube side on top of the engine shroud so I think I better start there.
#6
J
JimP2014
No, a blown head gasket on a Briggs & Stratton engine does not directly cause physical damage to the mower deck. However, a blown head gasket can lead to various issues, including loss of power, excessive smoke, and oil leaks, which might indirectly make it seem like there is damage to the mower deck if these symptoms are mistaken for deck problems.
Quite often any AI response makes no sense for me anyways but this time I think it did pretty good.
Jim
I never thought of blown head gasket could cause problems with the mower deck butt that's the way the AI read it
J
JimP2014
So I posed the question some AI application it might be from Google so the question I asked was could a blown head gasket create an illusion where you believe there's something wrong with the mower deck I asked something like that anyways here's the response from Google's AI engine:I just ran the Lt 2000 without the mower deck engaged the blades are still on but without even engaging the blades I noticed there's white smoke coming out of the air filter and there's some oil that I thought I solved spraying around on the oil filler tube side on top of the engine shroud so I think I better start there.
No, a blown head gasket on a Briggs & Stratton engine does not directly cause physical damage to the mower deck. However, a blown head gasket can lead to various issues, including loss of power, excessive smoke, and oil leaks, which might indirectly make it seem like there is damage to the mower deck if these symptoms are mistaken for deck problems.
Quite often any AI response makes no sense for me anyways but this time I think it did pretty good.
Jim
I never thought of blown head gasket could cause problems with the mower deck butt that's the way the AI read it
#8
S
slomo
What do you balance the blades with? Best and cheapest way to balance is using a precision food scale and a wooden block. I can balance a blade out to .01 of a gram.
S
slomo
I would look into this before messing with the blades. No doubt blades need some love too.white smoke coming out of the air filter
What do you balance the blades with? Best and cheapest way to balance is using a precision food scale and a wooden block. I can balance a blade out to .01 of a gram.
#9
J
JimP2014
No, a blown head gasket on a Briggs & Stratton engine does not directly cause physical damage to the mower deck. However, a blown head gasket can lead to various issues, including loss of power, excessive smoke, and oil leaks, which might indirectly make it seem like there is damage to the mower deck if these symptoms are mistaken for deck problems.
Quite often any AI response makes no sense for me anyways but this time I think it did pretty good.
Jim
I never thought of blown head gasket could cause problems with the mower deck butt
Jim
J
JimP2014
So I posed the question some AI application it might be from Google so the question I asked was could a blown head gasket create an illusion where you believe there's something wrong with the mower deck I asked something like that anyways here's the response from Google's AI engine:I just ran the Lt 2000 without the mower deck engaged the blades are still on but without even engaging the blades I noticed there's white smoke coming out of the air filter and there's some oil that I thought I solved spraying around on the oil filler tube side on top of the engine shroud so I think I better start there.
No, a blown head gasket on a Briggs & Stratton engine does not directly cause physical damage to the mower deck. However, a blown head gasket can lead to various issues, including loss of power, excessive smoke, and oil leaks, which might indirectly make it seem like there is damage to the mower deck if these symptoms are mistaken for deck problems.
Quite often any AI response makes no sense for me anyways but this time I think it did pretty good.
Jim
I never thought of blown head gasket could cause problems with the mower deck butt
To answer your question I have not used anything for the blades for this machine actually ever and there's really nothing wrong with them they cut they're not the sharpest but I was looking at that Oregon tool the one that looks like a cone and then I was looking at the one I think they make which month on a wall but I don't have anything but I did from my skiing background I took a 12-in mill bastard file and I just took a little bit of material off it's not very much on the older set of blades for the new blades I do not do anything + both sets of blades perform the same which I think is more indicative of what's going on with the engine so I was planning on ordering the I think it's the Oregon cheaper metal cone if you know what I mean.I would look into this before messing with the blades. No doubt blades need some love too.
What do you balance the blades with? Best and cheapest way to balance is using a precision food scale and a wooden block. I can balance a blade out to .01 of a gram.
Jim
#10
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Artificial intelligence gives answers based on what a person has fed the program with information. Artificial intelligence is already annoying and it is relatively new.So I posed the question some AI application it might be from Google so the question I asked was could a blown head gasket create an illusion where you believe there's something wrong with the mower deck I asked something like that anyways here's the response from Google's AI engine:
No, a blown head gasket on a Briggs & Stratton engine does not directly cause physical damage to the mower deck. However, a blown head gasket can lead to various issues, including loss of power, excessive smoke, and oil leaks, which might indirectly make it seem like there is damage to the mower deck if these symptoms are mistaken for deck problems.
Quite often any AI response makes no sense for me anyways but this time I think it did pretty good.
Jim
I never thought of blown head gasket could cause problems with the mower deck butt
To answer your question I have not used anything for the blades for this machine actually ever and there's really nothing wrong with them they cut they're not the sharpest but I was looking at that Oregon tool the one that looks like a cone and then I was looking at the one I think they make which month on a wall but I don't have anything but I did from my skiing background I took a 12-in mill bastard file and I just took a little bit of material off it's not very much on the older set of blades for the new blades I do not do anything + both sets of blades perform the same which I think is more indicative of what's going on with the engine so I was planning on ordering the I think it's the Oregon cheaper metal cone if you know what I mean.
Jim
#11
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Ilengine,
I did check the bolts and they seem fine ( engine mount bolts 4 of them ). The engine is producing white smoke in the intake and that test was just running without blades engaged for say 2 minutes. Also about a month ago there was oil being sprayed around the engine. I thought it might be the valve cover gasket, so I did fix this and the oil spraying stopped. But no it is back again. So under no load the oil gets sprayed near the oil filler tube and then on top of the engine shroud. I will pay close attention to this today because 1 month ago I made a video of oil bubbling along the valve cover gasket. Maybe it is this again or maybe it is the head gasket too. I think the "mower deck" might be OK. It is tough not having "you folks" around to actually see what is going on and people like myself where I am not sure what to listen to or look for. But often times forums like this does work out. It might take me a week to figure it out.
Here is the left side of the mower deck from yesterday:
So oil sprays under no load and the engine struggles with blades engaged. This is where it is at.
Jim
P.S. Forgot to mention there is a "very metally" sound like something is grinding.
I did check the bolts and they seem fine ( engine mount bolts 4 of them ). The engine is producing white smoke in the intake and that test was just running without blades engaged for say 2 minutes. Also about a month ago there was oil being sprayed around the engine. I thought it might be the valve cover gasket, so I did fix this and the oil spraying stopped. But no it is back again. So under no load the oil gets sprayed near the oil filler tube and then on top of the engine shroud. I will pay close attention to this today because 1 month ago I made a video of oil bubbling along the valve cover gasket. Maybe it is this again or maybe it is the head gasket too. I think the "mower deck" might be OK. It is tough not having "you folks" around to actually see what is going on and people like myself where I am not sure what to listen to or look for. But often times forums like this does work out. It might take me a week to figure it out.
Here is the left side of the mower deck from yesterday:
So oil sprays under no load and the engine struggles with blades engaged. This is where it is at.
Jim
P.S. Forgot to mention there is a "very metally" sound like something is grinding.
#12
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Forgot to mention there is a "very metally" sound like something is grinding.Ilengine,
I did check the bolts and they seem fine ( engine mount bolts 4 of them ). The engine is producing white smoke in the intake and that test was just running without blades engaged for say 2 minutes. Also about a month ago there was oil being sprayed around the engine. I thought it might be the valve cover gasket, so I did fix this and the oil spraying stopped. But no it is back again. So under no load the oil gets sprayed near the oil filler tube and then on top of the engine shroud. I will pay close attention to this today because 1 month ago I made a video of oil bubbling along the valve cover gasket. Maybe it is this again or maybe it is the head gasket too. I think the "mower deck" might be OK. It is tough not having "you folks" around to actually see what is going on and people like myself where I am not sure what to listen to or look for. But often times forums like this does work out. It might take me a week to figure it out.
Here is the left side of the mower deck from yesterday:
So oil sprays under no load and the engine struggles with blades engaged. This is where it is at.
Jim
#13
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Seems like the deck belt is shaking really bad. Check the V pulleys for something stuck in the groove, or check the deck belt for an area that looks like it has burnt to a narrow area, or a bent pulley.
Head gasket failure usually results in oil consumption and smoking out the muffler from the burning oil.
Head gasket failure usually results in oil consumption and smoking out the muffler from the burning oil.
#14
J
JimP2014
I just made this video seconds ago so here's the setup just start up the engine it starts up perfectly do not engage any deck whatsoever and let it run for a minute that point the exhaust pipe is 600° f or more and then there's white smoke coming out of the intake so I think I need to start here and not worry about the deck right now what are your thoughts on this?
J
JimP2014
Seems like the deck belt is shaking really bad. Check the V pulleys for something stuck in the groove, or check the deck belt for an area that looks like it has burnt to a narrow area, or a bent pulley.
Head gasket failure usually results in oil consumption and smoking out the muffler from the burning oil.
I just made this video seconds ago so here's the setup just start up the engine it starts up perfectly do not engage any deck whatsoever and let it run for a minute that point the exhaust pipe is 600° f or more and then there's white smoke coming out of the intake so I think I need to start here and not worry about the deck right now what are your thoughts on this?
#15
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Let me add this last year I had about 50 different things going on that had nothing to do with a mower deck the only thing I did was I bought a new carburetor and it solved everything I'm wondering if this is a similar situation?
I just made this video seconds ago so here's the setup just start up the engine it starts up perfectly do not engage any deck whatsoever and let it run for a minute that point the exhaust pipe is 600° f or more and then there's white smoke coming out of the intake so I think I need to start here and not worry about the deck right now what are your thoughts on this?
#16
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
So I'm on my phone and I took a picture of the image it's definitely a blown head gasket I've seen others were where gets ruined and this one is in exactly the same place but that is definitely the problem hopefully there are no more problems so it's a blown head gasket
Jim
Jim
#17
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
So I'm on my phone and I took a picture of the image it's definitely a blown head gasket I've seen others were where gets ruined and this one is in exactly the same place but that is definitely the problem hopefully there are no more problems so it's a blown head gasket
Jim
#19
S
slomo
S
slomo
THAT is definitely blown. No question.
Now is the fun part. You must clean and lap the head and area on the block where the new gasket sits. I use 220 grit wet/dry paper on the garage door window. Go to 400 then 800 grit. Let the paper do ALL THE WORK. Don't press hard and rotate the head around while lapping.
Also get some high tack gasket spray and fog the gasket. Torque the bolts after mowing a few times.
Now is the fun part. You must clean and lap the head and area on the block where the new gasket sits. I use 220 grit wet/dry paper on the garage door window. Go to 400 then 800 grit. Let the paper do ALL THE WORK. Don't press hard and rotate the head around while lapping.
Also get some high tack gasket spray and fog the gasket. Torque the bolts after mowing a few times.
#20
S
slomo
S
slomo
That white fog looks to be atomized fuel. As in the needle and seat not sealing proper.Let me add this last year I had about 50 different things going on that had nothing to do with a mower deck the only thing I did was I bought a new carburetor and it solved everything I'm wondering if this is a similar situation?
#21
J
JimP2014
Thanks,
Jim
J
JimP2014
OK I will take your advice on this. The good news is it starts right up and I ran it for a few laps. I guessed on the valve clearance. I did not follow any torque for head. I just wanted to see it does work and it does. So I have no problem taking it apart again, I did scrape pretty good with a sharp putty knife and also used steel wool. The spark plug was black. Luckily I have at least 3 of everything now. I am ordering a feeler gauge with large numbers. But I will admit something sounds "metally" when the blades are on. I made a few passes shut it down and restarted it then shut it down. I will have to read up on this spray. The place where the gasket broke is like classic from what I am reading and seeing. But this spray you add besides the metal head gasket? I have to brand new ones left over. Also I hope to make a movie of it running, but it sounds great when idling at 3/4 throttle.THAT is definitely blown. No question.
Now is the fun part. You must clean and lap the head and area on the block where the new gasket sits. I use 220 grit wet/dry paper on the garage door window. Go to 400 then 800 grit. Let the paper do ALL THE WORK. Don't press hard and rotate the head around while lapping.
Also get some high tack gasket spray and fog the gasket. Torque the bolts after mowing a few times.
View attachment 71297
Thanks,
Jim
#22
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Is this message for me regarding the head gasket?That white fog looks to be atomized fuel. As in the needle and seat not sealing proper.
#23
J
JimP2014
here's the video new head gasket so it's just idling although it does cut but I need to get it really cleaned up better than what it is right now.
J
JimP2014
NO other than just getting around that piece which is not easy to do. I hope to get that metal shroud off is very easy?
here's the video new head gasket so it's just idling although it does cut but I need to get it really cleaned up better than what it is right now.
#24
J
JimP2014
I believe this screw is 7/8" long? When putting the intake mainfold back on the engine I had mxed up a bunch of screws and I was afraid the ones I choose would be to long and damage the engine block. Since everything seems to run fine now with the new head gasket ( but no hi-temp spray yet on head gasket ). They were mixed in a pile of screws for the valve cover ( I think ). Obviously I can't just add screws into engine block and for the intake manifold as I please, but part # 691148 seems corrct? And then from there the threads are 7/8" long? I saw one ad that had 1 x 7 x 8 , not sure if this is the correct dimensions if you simply go to a hardware store and buy 2 of those? I will back those 2 out of the engine block in a few hours and see if those are correct? I got to the point where the job was complete and then I was confronted with using 2 bolts for the intake manifold or not to use them in fear of damaging the block - I choose to use them. So far everything seems OK but I am not positive on this.
Thanks,
Jim
J
JimP2014
Briggs and Stratton 31P677-3373-G2 <--- for this engine I see #54 as being the intake manifold bolts. And that is #54 in the diagram and then that becomes this:
Briggs and Stratton Screw
691148I believe this screw is 7/8" long? When putting the intake mainfold back on the engine I had mxed up a bunch of screws and I was afraid the ones I choose would be to long and damage the engine block. Since everything seems to run fine now with the new head gasket ( but no hi-temp spray yet on head gasket ). They were mixed in a pile of screws for the valve cover ( I think ). Obviously I can't just add screws into engine block and for the intake manifold as I please, but part # 691148 seems corrct? And then from there the threads are 7/8" long? I saw one ad that had 1 x 7 x 8 , not sure if this is the correct dimensions if you simply go to a hardware store and buy 2 of those? I will back those 2 out of the engine block in a few hours and see if those are correct? I got to the point where the job was complete and then I was confronted with using 2 bolts for the intake manifold or not to use them in fear of damaging the block - I choose to use them. So far everything seems OK but I am not positive on this.
Thanks,
Jim
Attachments
#25
B
bentrim
B
bentrim
Blown head gasket a common problem on Breaks & Scrapem singles especially the 28 and 31 cube engines. Some overeducated engineer thought they did not need a headbolt in the pushrod area and therefore it is a long distance between the two head bolts.
Quickest way to check for a blown gasket is to remove the crancase vent hose from the air inlet and if you see crnkcase vapors coming out, somtimes just removing the air filter and looking down the intake neck you will see oil in the bottom -- you have a blown gasket.
Quickest way to check for a blown gasket is to remove the crancase vent hose from the air inlet and if you see crnkcase vapors coming out, somtimes just removing the air filter and looking down the intake neck you will see oil in the bottom -- you have a blown gasket.
#26
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Thank you for this additional information I can tell you that when I was looking at the engine block on the lower right there was a puddle of oil kind of and I just needed to clean it up with a rag and the lower right is the intake this engine.Blown head gasket a common problem on Breaks & Scrapem singles especially the 28 and 31 cube engines. Some overeducated engineer thought they did not need a headbolt in the pushrod area and therefore it is a long distance between the two head bolts.
Quickest way to check for a blown gasket is to remove the crancase vent hose from the air inlet and if you see crnkcase vapors coming out, somtimes just removing the air filter and looking down the intake neck you will see oil in the bottom -- you have a blown gasket.
Jim
#27
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I mean with the cylinder head off alrready.Thank you for this additional information I can tell you that when I was looking at the engine block on the lower right there was a puddle of oil kind of and I just needed to clean it up with a rag and the lower right is the intake this engine.
Jim
#28
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
But one thing I did notice is that the last time I replaced the cylinder head gasket was about one year ago. So the question is one year is about average? Or possibly something I did that shortened the longevity of the cylinder head gasket? I can't recall the author above but using that 'copper' spray would increase the longevity I imagine?
#29
R
RevB
R
RevB
Full throttle?Hello prior to posting this message I read numerous things about what could be wrong with when I engaged the mower deck blades the engine starts shaking and runs erratically.
But the question I have is can I remove both blades and go through all the same procedure engaging the PTO clutch and see if the engine shakes I mean is it okay to run the engine for 15-20 seconds without blades?
But it's an lt2000 42-in cutting with a 19.5 horsepower OHV engine.
I want to remove both blades to see if I can figure out if two sets of blades are both unbalanced there's some other thing going on.
Thanks,
Jim
#30
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I posted this about blades removal and then engaging the PTO because I could not figure out why the mower deck and the engine has shaking so much. I wanted to quickly get the blades out of the equation without having to mess with anything else. However the problem was a head gasket that caused other problems to surface. Once I fixed the head gasket the other problems never surfaced, and I suppose technically they are not problems at all. So I spent 2 weeks fixing a problem that did not exist, but hell I learned alot about the mower deck.Full throttle?
#31
doug9694
doug9694
Looks like the belt has a burnt spot. Making it thinner there. And belts shrink when overheated.So I posed the question some AI application it might be from Google so the question I asked was could a blown head gasket create an illusion where you believe there's something wrong with the mower deck I asked something like that anyways here's the response from Google's AI engine:
No, a blown head gasket on a Briggs & Stratton engine does not directly cause physical damage to the mower deck. However, a blown head gasket can lead to various issues, including loss of power, excessive smoke, and oil leaks, which might indirectly make it seem like there is damage to the mower deck if these symptoms are mistaken for deck problems.
Quite often any AI response makes no sense for me anyways but this time I think it did pretty good.
Jim
I never thought of blown head gasket could cause problems with the mower deck butt that's the way the AI read it
#32
J
JimP2014
I wanted to add this, it took FOUR tries to get the correct belt size. I ended up with:
Also this deck ( all decks ) should have a feature where it might be an additional pulley or something where you can, "take up belt slack" or even,
"accomodate a shorter belt". I mean where this can adjust for belts say 2" to long or maybe 1" to short.
I thought this deck had a "belt tensioner" but it does not it has:
It has a Flat idler pulley Part #197379
and a Husqvarna Lawn Mower Idler Pulley 532177968
Besides 2 fixed pulleys. So 4 pulleys in total, but no way to adjust the "big loop" the belt travels.
I have thought of adding another pulley to mower decks, and have it on a slide, even a design where it would deflect ( the belt presses against it ) the belt enough to and in this
case shorten belt length.
Jim
Jim
J
JimP2014
Looks like the belt has a burnt spot. Making it thinner there. And belts shrink when overheated
Doug thank you very much,, I was thinking about getting a new belt for it. I can't see what you're talking about but I believe you.Looks like the belt has a burnt spot. Making it thinner there. And belts shrink when overheated.
I wanted to add this, it took FOUR tries to get the correct belt size. I ended up with:
Drive Deck Belt 1/2" x100 1/4" Made with Kevlar
I used this as the search:917289070 Craftsman Lawn Tractor
Maybe I made some mistakes in ordering, or looking things up but the 100 & 1/4" seemed to work the best.Also this deck ( all decks ) should have a feature where it might be an additional pulley or something where you can, "take up belt slack" or even,
"accomodate a shorter belt". I mean where this can adjust for belts say 2" to long or maybe 1" to short.
I thought this deck had a "belt tensioner" but it does not it has:
It has a Flat idler pulley Part #197379
and a Husqvarna Lawn Mower Idler Pulley 532177968
Besides 2 fixed pulleys. So 4 pulleys in total, but no way to adjust the "big loop" the belt travels.
I have thought of adding another pulley to mower decks, and have it on a slide, even a design where it would deflect ( the belt presses against it ) the belt enough to and in this
case shorten belt length.
Jim
Jim
#33
R
rhkraft
R
rhkraft
I believe the shaking is the result of unbalanced blades. See if they are worn. They make a balancer, enter "lawn mower blade balancer" on google. Sharpen your blades, then set them on the balancer. If one end is low, it is heavy. Grind a little metal off the back side of that blade at the end and recheck. Do that until the blade rests level on the balancer. Or buy an expensive professional balancer. Unbalanced blades can make things shake. Consider new blades if yours are really beat up.
#34
R
rhkraft
R
rhkraft
Remember, AI is only what the program writer was thinking. If his experience is limited, the AI won't be better. From my experience, computer geeks are good at what they do, but dim bulbs out of their element. I wouldn't trust AI for anything. Web sites use it so they don't have to hire a pro to answer questions. Political AI is worse because their political bias is part of the answers.
#35
B
bentrim
B
bentrim
Have you used the new torque spec and pattern? Have tried to copy file and attach the file but the computer won't allow it. So here is th jist of the service bulletin.
1 New design head bolt, with new torque pattern. No part number given.
2. Tighten 1/3 value, then 2/3, then final torque.
3 new torque 250 in ib-in or 28.2 Nm
4 pattern 1. bottom center 2 top center, 3, botom center left side, 4 top right, 5 bottom right, 6 top left, 7 bottom left, 8 left center top.
6 2 4
8
3
7 1 5
APSI # 87
NOVEMBER 2012
SUBJECT CYLINDER HEA D TORQUE CHANGE
MODELS 21OOOO, 280000, 310000, 330000 vertical shaft engines
1 New design head bolt, with new torque pattern. No part number given.
2. Tighten 1/3 value, then 2/3, then final torque.
3 new torque 250 in ib-in or 28.2 Nm
4 pattern 1. bottom center 2 top center, 3, botom center left side, 4 top right, 5 bottom right, 6 top left, 7 bottom left, 8 left center top.
6 2 4
8
3
7 1 5
APSI # 87
NOVEMBER 2012
SUBJECT CYLINDER HEA D TORQUE CHANGE
MODELS 21OOOO, 280000, 310000, 330000 vertical shaft engines
#36
J
JimP2014
I will allow go to the 250 in/lbs when done. I plan on taking it all apart, using that "copper" spray, cleaning both metal sides etc.
Thanks for the info Bentrim!
Jim
J
JimP2014
I never saw this before but I understand what it says. I basically did tighten in this order.Have you used the new torque spec and pattern? Have tried to copy file and attach the file but the computer won't allow it. So here is th jist of the service bulletin.
1 New design head bolt, with new torque pattern. No part number given.
2. Tighten 1/3 value, then 2/3, then final torque.
3 new torque 250 in ib-in or 28.2 Nm
4 pattern 1. bottom center 2 top center, 3, botom center left side, 4 top right, 5 bottom right, 6 top left, 7 bottom left, 8 left center top.
6 2 4
8
3
7 1 5
APSI # 87
NOVEMBER 2012
SUBJECT CYLINDER HEA D TORQUE CHANGE
MODELS 21OOOO, 280000, 310000, 330000 vertical shaft engines
I will allow go to the 250 in/lbs when done. I plan on taking it all apart, using that "copper" spray, cleaning both metal sides etc.
Thanks for the info Bentrim!
Jim
#37
J
JimP2014
This is where someone is making their own copper gasket, rather than the spray type out of using Permatex copper.
J
JimP2014
This is where someone is making their own copper gasket, rather than the spray type out of using Permatex copper.
#38
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I will use this pattern also I was watching someone who basically said 4 is not as important as 5 since 5 ( if looser can cause oil leaks ). Of course they are all important, but I add this "tidbit" of info to what you have posted.Have you used the new torque spec and pattern? Have tried to copy file and attach the file but the computer won't allow it. So here is th jist of the service bulletin.
1 New design head bolt, with new torque pattern. No part number given.
2. Tighten 1/3 value, then 2/3, then final torque.
3 new torque 250 in ib-in or 28.2 Nm
4 pattern 1. bottom center 2 top center, 3, botom center left side, 4 top right, 5 bottom right, 6 top left, 7 bottom left, 8 left center top.
6 2 4
8
3
7 1 5
APSI # 87
NOVEMBER 2012
SUBJECT CYLINDER HEA D TORQUE CHANGE
MODELS 21OOOO, 280000, 310000, 330000 vertical shaft engines
#39
doug9694
This deck shook a lot from loose spindle bearings. Replaced all 4 and new belt. Running like new now!! Some mowers have adjustments that move to the deck towards the engine to loosen, and away for tighter!
doug9694
I worked on a John Deere that has one of the pulleys that pivots to take up the slack when you engage the deck. It has an adjustment to add or remove slack.Doug thank you very much,, I was thinking about getting a new belt for it. I can't see what you're talking about but I believe you.
I wanted to add this, it took FOUR tries to get the correct belt size. I ended up with:
Drive Deck Belt 1/2" x100 1/4" Made with Kevlar
I used this as the search:
917289070 Craftsman Lawn Tractor
Maybe I made some mistakes in ordering, or looking things up but the 100 & 1/4" seemed to work the best.
Also this deck ( all decks ) should have a feature where it might be an additional pulley or something where you can, "take up belt slack" or even,
"accomodate a shorter belt". I mean where this can adjust for belts say 2" to long or maybe 1" to short.
I thought this deck had a "belt tensioner" but it does not it has:
It has a Flat idler pulley Part #197379
and a Husqvarna Lawn Mower Idler Pulley 532177968
Besides 2 fixed pulleys. So 4 pulleys in total, but no way to adjust the "big loop" the belt travels.
I have thought of adding another pulley to mower decks, and have it on a slide, even a design where it would deflect ( the belt presses against it ) the belt enough to and in this
case shorten belt length.
Jim
Jim
This deck shook a lot from loose spindle bearings. Replaced all 4 and new belt. Running like new now!! Some mowers have adjustments that move to the deck towards the engine to loosen, and away for tighter!
#40
J
JimP2014
But thanks again,
Jim
J
JimP2014
Thanks for the additional info, I was not aware that such a thing exists. I believe with this LTS2000 the deck does a front rod ( single rod, it used to be two rods )that goes from the mower deck to the frame and it does have 2 holes, to me it seemed like one or the other with no adjustment in between - not sure about this. Correction I think the deck has a plate with 2 holes, but I thought it was only for tuning the deck height not belt length.I worked on a John Deere that has one of the pulleys that pivots to take up the slack when you engage the deck. It has an adjustment to add or remove slack.
This deck shook a lot from loose spindle bearings. Replaced all 4 and new belt. Running like new now!! Some mowers have adjustments that move to the deck towards the engine to loosen, and away for tighter!
But thanks again,
Jim