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Engine replacement
#1
M
Mattmotors
M
Mattmotors
Husqvarna YTH 24V48 Product 960450046 Serial 012315a046880
Hi All, I acquired a Husq yth 24v48 with a blown briggs .The engine is a 24HP 44N877. The shaft is 1' Diameter, 3 5/32 length, 7/16x20 tapped along with a 1/4 inch keyway. My question is : Do I have any options for replacement ? Do I have to use the exact engine ? Will the Husq accept any other bolt up patterns as long I have the same size shaft? Thanks , Matt.
Hi All, I acquired a Husq yth 24v48 with a blown briggs .The engine is a 24HP 44N877. The shaft is 1' Diameter, 3 5/32 length, 7/16x20 tapped along with a 1/4 inch keyway. My question is : Do I have any options for replacement ? Do I have to use the exact engine ? Will the Husq accept any other bolt up patterns as long I have the same size shaft? Thanks , Matt.
#2
M
MParr
www.smallenginewarehouse.com
M
MParr
25hp Briggs & Stratton Commercial Series, Vertical 1"x3-5/32" Shaft, Cyclonic Air Cleaner, Fuel Pump, Oil Filter, 16 Amp Alternator, Premium Oil Filter
44T977-0043-G1 Briggs & Stratton 44T977-0043 - 25hp Briggs & Stratton Commercial Series, Vertical 1"x3-5/32" Shaft, Cyclonic Air Cleaner, Fuel Pump, Oil Filter, 16 Amp Alternator, Premium Oil Filter
www.smallenginewarehouse.com
#3
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
Ebay turns up with good used rider engines pretty often.
Most people trash their mower decks long before the engine breaks down severely.
I recommend stay with the B&S, otherwise you will have to make some changes to fit a Kohler and wire it in.
These engines typically have the same basic mounting hole patterns.
Most people trash their mower decks long before the engine breaks down severely.
I recommend stay with the B&S, otherwise you will have to make some changes to fit a Kohler and wire it in.
These engines typically have the same basic mounting hole patterns.
#4
Tiger Small Engine
Have you ever purchased any used engines or transaxles from EBay? If so, what were your results? Anyone else that has personal experience with used engines or transaxles from EBay is welcome to chime in.
Tiger Small Engine
Auto Doc’s-Ebay turns up with good used rider engines pretty often.
Most people trash their mower decks long before the engine breaks down severely.
I recommend stay with the B&S, otherwise you will have to make some changes to fit a Kohler and wire it in.
These engines typically have the same basic mounting hole patterns.
Have you ever purchased any used engines or transaxles from EBay? If so, what were your results? Anyone else that has personal experience with used engines or transaxles from EBay is welcome to chime in.
#5
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
Hello, Tiger Small Engine,
I used to only buy new engines from small engine warehouse online, but they have gotten out of hand with their pricing. Now, I only use them if the customer insists and has the new engine drop shipped to me prepaid.
Yes, I have sourced and had the customer(s) purchase several engines through Ebay, but I make sure to ask the seller about the maintenance history, hours of use and general questions about it and why the engine was pulled to sell online.
I have purchased 3 used engines for my own equipment so far and have been very satisfied.
The important thing to do on Ebay is ask questions. If they don't want to answer questions or get snippy (red flag), I just move on to the next potential engine for sale. Most sellers are happy to answer questions.
Usually, I find out if the seller is an actual small engine repair person, or just a private (hobby) seller. Once I'm certain of the engine condition, it is up to the broken mower owner to make the purchase. (Yes, I do charge a minor finder's fee for my time.)
I quit financing customers big-ticket parts and repairs years ago.... I have found that customers are more sincere about completing repairs when they have some money tied up in the repair process.
So far, I have had very good results through Ebay. I have had only one used V-twin come in with a failing coil which I considered a very minor problem, and another needed the carburetor cleaned well and reinstalled to correct a poor idle.
I make sure to test run every engine on a small, modified roll around table I have before they are installed.
Used B&S Intek singles are the exception due to their chronic failing cam issues currently happening.
As for transaxles, I try to locate them from a local salvage when I can, or a whole core parts machine on Facebook Marketplace but I will not buy one online (except new). It falls on the customer to take chances like that. The less money I spend on their problems, the better off I am.
I seldom have a customer willing to investing the money to save a machine with bad transaxle anyway, but that may change with the prices climbing higher all the time on new equipment.
I used to only buy new engines from small engine warehouse online, but they have gotten out of hand with their pricing. Now, I only use them if the customer insists and has the new engine drop shipped to me prepaid.
Yes, I have sourced and had the customer(s) purchase several engines through Ebay, but I make sure to ask the seller about the maintenance history, hours of use and general questions about it and why the engine was pulled to sell online.
I have purchased 3 used engines for my own equipment so far and have been very satisfied.
The important thing to do on Ebay is ask questions. If they don't want to answer questions or get snippy (red flag), I just move on to the next potential engine for sale. Most sellers are happy to answer questions.
Usually, I find out if the seller is an actual small engine repair person, or just a private (hobby) seller. Once I'm certain of the engine condition, it is up to the broken mower owner to make the purchase. (Yes, I do charge a minor finder's fee for my time.)
I quit financing customers big-ticket parts and repairs years ago.... I have found that customers are more sincere about completing repairs when they have some money tied up in the repair process.
So far, I have had very good results through Ebay. I have had only one used V-twin come in with a failing coil which I considered a very minor problem, and another needed the carburetor cleaned well and reinstalled to correct a poor idle.
I make sure to test run every engine on a small, modified roll around table I have before they are installed.
Used B&S Intek singles are the exception due to their chronic failing cam issues currently happening.
As for transaxles, I try to locate them from a local salvage when I can, or a whole core parts machine on Facebook Marketplace but I will not buy one online (except new). It falls on the customer to take chances like that. The less money I spend on their problems, the better off I am.
I seldom have a customer willing to investing the money to save a machine with bad transaxle anyway, but that may change with the prices climbing higher all the time on new equipment.
#6
Its Me
Its Me
Auto Doc's, yes, the price is getting higher, because we have more dishonest businesspeople in the U. S. they are at least a 300% market ever time the part changes hands, I do part time mechanic work for a local shop, they sell Scag and have a great business and a lot of commercial cutters, she calls when her mechanics can't get one to run or a job too big for them to handle, example of price gouging, Hydraulic pump, Scag Turf Tiger, list for 1,200.00 plus tax, 10 3/4 %, she sold me one for 450 dollars, we need to see a lot of business go under or a depression so we can zero the book and start over. I don't buy big dollars Items I tell the customer what they need, and you get it, they learn fast about the scammers.
#7
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
Hello Its Me,
I prove the numbers and also have customers purchase the big-ticket stuff from known sources these days to protect myself. Customer's "discount days" are over with me. If they want financing, I tell them to go to the bank.
Labor for me is strictly cash because I'm not eating 3% every time a customer insists on using a credit card. They think I'm being unreasonable, but I'm being honest. I'll only accept a personal check from a longtime customer, but absolutely no business checks from anyone.
I even had one customer recently ask me if I would accept Venmo or PayPal. I said sure for a 12% surcharge, so I get paid the full amount owed. They did not realize that these companies charge money from both parties when conducting these "convenient" pay transactions.
I prove the numbers and also have customers purchase the big-ticket stuff from known sources these days to protect myself. Customer's "discount days" are over with me. If they want financing, I tell them to go to the bank.
Labor for me is strictly cash because I'm not eating 3% every time a customer insists on using a credit card. They think I'm being unreasonable, but I'm being honest. I'll only accept a personal check from a longtime customer, but absolutely no business checks from anyone.
I even had one customer recently ask me if I would accept Venmo or PayPal. I said sure for a 12% surcharge, so I get paid the full amount owed. They did not realize that these companies charge money from both parties when conducting these "convenient" pay transactions.
#8
Tiger Small Engine
I very rarely do engine or transaxle swaps for customers. I am a one person shop and am more tune up, and repair focused then major projects.
As I have gained experience I have realized my tools, skills, and knowledge have added value and benefit to repairs. I no longer feel guilty for charging a fair price which is normally about 1/3 lower than actual average cost in my area. There is lots of good business out there. No need to put up with unreasonable customers.
Tiger Small Engine
I only accept check or cash. Never had a bad check.Hello Its Me,
I prove the numbers and also have customers purchase the big-ticket stuff from known sources these days to protect myself. Customer's "discount days" are over with me. If they want financing, I tell them to go to the bank.
Labor for me is strictly cash because I'm not eating 3% every time a customer insists on using a credit card. They think I'm being unreasonable, but I'm being honest. I'll only accept a personal check from a longtime customer, but absolutely no business checks from anyone.
I even had one customer recently ask me if I would accept Venmo or PayPal. I said sure for a 12% surcharge, so I get paid the full amount owed. They did not realize that these companies charge money from both parties when conducting these "convenient" pay transactions.
I very rarely do engine or transaxle swaps for customers. I am a one person shop and am more tune up, and repair focused then major projects.
As I have gained experience I have realized my tools, skills, and knowledge have added value and benefit to repairs. I no longer feel guilty for charging a fair price which is normally about 1/3 lower than actual average cost in my area. There is lots of good business out there. No need to put up with unreasonable customers.
#9
Its Me
Its Me
I am working on a Mad Dog mower, Kawasaki engine failed because the rod cap bolts were loose, that is one of many things with their engines that they hide and deny, so the fellow bought a used one, he was told it had a miss probably valve need setting, took the covers off the valve and found another Kawasaki hied and deny, the head was broke the guide that holds the push rod in place, broke off and it swallowed the valve and bent it, so he orders one from Wholesale warehouse, wrong engine, cranks shaft has to be a 1 1/8" X 4.250 length, he had to pay shipping back and got the right one but the muffler won't fit, now it's to find the muffler I have read that Hustler bought them and parts and mowers gone, but he is paying 50 per hour, while I unbox his useless motors and mufflers.
#10
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
The rod cap bolts being loose was a symptom not the cause of the failure. Unless the engine failed within the first few hours the rod bolts were not the cause. I have seen loose rod bolts from the factory. They don't normally survive past 5 hours. And the broken valve issue is due to head overheating, which is most likely also the cause of the loose rod bolts that lead to complete unexpected disassembly.I am working on a Mad Dog mower, Kawasaki engine failed because the rod cap bolts were loose, that is one of many things with their engines that they hide and deny, so the fellow bought a used one, he was told it had a miss probably valve need setting, took the covers off the valve and found another Kawasaki hied and deny, the head was broke the guide that holds the push rod in place, broke off and it swallowed the valve and bent it, so he orders one from Wholesale warehouse, wrong engine, cranks shaft has to be a 1 1/8" X 4.250 length, he had to pay shipping back and got the right one but the muffler won't fit, now it's to find the muffler I have read that Hustler bought them and parts and mowers gone, but he is paying 50 per hour, while I unbox his useless motors and mufflers.
#11
A
Auto Doc's
If a rod journal has been worn down from lack of oil and frequent overheating, the rod bolts will loosen due to the excessive knocking that has been ignored by the operator. You found a result, not a cause.
Kawasaki is the last one I would blame for these engine failure problems. A large majority of engine failures occur from customer lack of proper maintenance or just plain abuse.
All brand engines do have their faults, but they show up more as hours of use increase, especially with a lack of maintenance.
I see all makes of engines in my business and a few of them that never make it past 100 hours because the customer never checked or changed the oil since purchased new. I offer oil change service, but no one want to pay for that when it cost more than it does to get the oil changed on their 4-cylinder vehicle. Service parts and oil are not cheap these days
Amazon cheap "white box" filters or Walmart budget oil do not work very well with small engines, and I will not use them.
A
Auto Doc's
Hello Its Me,I am working on a Mad Dog mower, Kawasaki engine failed because the rod cap bolts were loose, that is one of many things with their engines that they hide and deny, so the fellow bought a used one, he was told it had a miss probably valve need setting, took the covers off the valve and found another Kawasaki hied and deny, the head was broke the guide that holds the push rod in place, broke off and it swallowed the valve and bent it, so he orders one from Wholesale warehouse, wrong engine, cranks shaft has to be a 1 1/8" X 4.250 length, he had to pay shipping back and got the right one but the muffler won't fit, now it's to find the muffler I have read that Hustler bought them and parts and mowers gone, but he is paying 50 per hour, while I unbox his useless motors and mufflers.
If a rod journal has been worn down from lack of oil and frequent overheating, the rod bolts will loosen due to the excessive knocking that has been ignored by the operator. You found a result, not a cause.
Kawasaki is the last one I would blame for these engine failure problems. A large majority of engine failures occur from customer lack of proper maintenance or just plain abuse.
All brand engines do have their faults, but they show up more as hours of use increase, especially with a lack of maintenance.
I see all makes of engines in my business and a few of them that never make it past 100 hours because the customer never checked or changed the oil since purchased new. I offer oil change service, but no one want to pay for that when it cost more than it does to get the oil changed on their 4-cylinder vehicle. Service parts and oil are not cheap these days
Amazon cheap "white box" filters or Walmart budget oil do not work very well with small engines, and I will not use them.
#12
Its Me
Its Me
ILENGINE, I guess I did not state it right, the factory engine had the loose rod cap which threw the rod through the side of the engine and the secondhand motor that he bought had the issue with the head dropping the valve, just got his second engine in from Wholesale warehouse they sold what they call it a commercial engine and this time the right size crankshaft 1/18'' X 4.25' he now realizes that a local shop had the engine for 1,700 dollars and he would have been dollars ahead.
#13
A
Auto Doc's
Somehow this thread went off down the "rabbit trail".
Have you found an engine yet
A
Auto Doc's
Hello Mattmotors,Husqvarna YTH 24V48 Product 960450046 Serial 012315a046880
Hi All, I acquired a Husq yth 24v48 with a blown briggs .The engine is a 24HP 44N877. The shaft is 1' Diameter, 3 5/32 length, 7/16x20 tapped along with a 1/4 inch keyway. My question is : Do I have any options for replacement ? Do I have to use the exact engine ? Will the Husq accept any other bolt up patterns as long I have the same size shaft? Thanks , Matt.
Somehow this thread went off down the "rabbit trail".
Have you found an engine yet
#14
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
You missed the point that the rod/crank journal bearing overheating is the cause for the rod bolts loosening. The loose bolts are not the initial cause of failure. The overheating is. The dropped valve issue is also a symptom of an overheated head. If the rod bolts had been left loose or the valve issue was due to a manufacturing issue, the engine would have had a 90% chance of failure within the first 5 hours of operation.ILENGINE, I guess I did not state it right, the factory engine had the loose rod cap which threw the rod through the side of the engine and the secondhand motor that he bought had the issue with the head dropping the valve, just got his second engine in from Wholesale warehouse they sold what they call it a commercial engine and this time the right size crankshaft 1/18'' X 4.25' he now realizes that a local shop had the engine for 1,700 dollars and he would have been dollars ahead.
#15
Its Me
Its Me
ILENGINE, I guess right but the rod broke about 1 1/2'' about where it connects to the crank, the bolts were still in the rod but had backed, I saw no indication of heat but the second engine you right that is a factory defect but I am not getting into that with the fellow or Kawasaki, after the second engine with Whole Sale Warehouse he got the right engine, another I will be gald to see it out of the shop.
#16
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
That is about the correct location for rod breakage when the rod seizes to the crank from lack of lubrication failure. And the bolts back off due to the heat effect. And signs of heat will not be overly evident if the engine was run without oil at the time of failure.ILENGINE, I guess right but the rod broke about 1 1/2'' about where it connects to the crank, the bolts were still in the rod but had backed, I saw no indication of heat but the second engine you right that is a factory defect but I am not getting into that with the fellow or Kawasaki, after the second engine with Whole Sale Warehouse he got the right engine, another I will be gald to see it out of the shop.
#17
Its Me
Its Me
ILENGINE, I am well aware of what you stated and what you mean, I am telling you that they was no heat, no discolor no melting to the crank the bolts were backed out about 1/4", some background myself, I am 74, been mechanic since very young we lived on a Farm, tractors and other things went in the home shop not the dealers shop, even with that times were hard, richer people would give us back them they were called (power Movers) so I learn to work on them guessing 10 years old, developed a love for working on them, years later I opened a Lawnmower shop, sales and service selling mower paid the light bill and labor but the money was made in the repair shop, only saying this to qualify that I am not a person joining the group to get information. but you are right in what you say can happen seen the melt to the crank and not throw a rod.
#18
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
I buy engines off MP is also an option. I find ones that have been removed from machines with bad transmissions. I have to hear it run first. On, or off the machine. No shipping concerns then and quick pick up.
#19
sgkent
sgkent
ANY unknown used engine is a gamble. It all comes down to what the seller will do if it is a dud.