I know I’m getting old and electrical problems can get very confusing, but in 50+ years I’ve never seen this before. I’ve got an Echo CS346 that I need to get running, I hooked my inline spark tester (neon light) up to check for spark; nothing. Ok, installed new plug; very faint. Pulled the plug, ran a jumper from plug to good ground; faint spark. Disconnected the plug and I don’t know why but I gave the rope one more pull; great spark in tester. Remember I now have good spark without one end of the tester connected to any ground. I must be going nuts, because I can’t understand how I can have current flow on an open circuit???? AIR GROUND??? I know this makes no sense, but I haven’t been drinking this morning and I now think I’ve lost it. Decided to put everything back together and give the saw a try, started to my surprise. After adjusting the carb, the saw is running good and I’m quitting for the day. Can anyone tell me I’m not crazy and give me any explanation? Edit: I tried my other tester, same type, and it also showed spark.
Electricity just got confusing
- Thread starter Rivets
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it because it got one these stupid plug wire terminals.
They tend to break the high tension (plug wire) lead internal conductor then make contact sometimes and other times they don't.
Usually you can snip off the section where the hole is and reinstall the terminal.
They tend to break the high tension (plug wire) lead internal conductor then make contact sometimes and other times they don't.
Usually you can snip off the section where the hole is and reinstall the terminal.
It was that style connector, but that doesn’t explain why I show current flow through the tester when one end is connected to the secondary wire and other end is in thin air, not touching anything.
Hammermechanicman
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You are applying a mometary high voltage to a glass bulb filled with neon. Enough energy will dissipate into air to excite the gas. It doesn't take that much to excite the neon gas. The air has super high impedance so essentially no current flow. My old school noninductive timing light would work without the plugwire connected to the spark plug but just the timing light.
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Then you will be confused standing under those high tension overhead wires (your local electrical transport system). Underneath them you can hold up florescent light bulb tube (one those four to eight ones) and have it light up. And there no wires attached on either end.
Those neon testers are not really testing for current as much they are just testing the presence of high voltage. Same theory is at work on those non contact voltage testers that they for checking your wall outlets.
Those neon testers are not really testing for current as much they are just testing the presence of high voltage. Same theory is at work on those non contact voltage testers that they for checking your wall outlets.
Without supplying the make, model, and serial number you make it much more difficult for us to troubleshoot.
Joe, if you read post #1 you will see that I got the unit running. I was just making an observation about electricity which I have not see before. I don’t understand everything posted fully, but I did learn something new.
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Rivets if you don't fix the end of the plug wire it will give trouble in short again.
And Joe Rivets did give the model number of the Echo chainsaw he was playing with...but in this there is two serial breaks but wasn't need for this particular problem.
Now just depend if Rivets has been in my shop or not as a couple bottles of home brew are missing.
And Joe Rivets did give the model number of the Echo chainsaw he was playing with...but in this there is two serial breaks but wasn't need for this particular problem.
Now just depend if Rivets has been in my shop or not as a couple bottles of home brew are missing.