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I have a Snapper push mower with a Briggs & Stratton 875 series engine with electric start. When I turn the key the starter turns over but won't 'engage' and the engine won't start. When I start it using the pull cord it fires right up. Do I need a new electric starter? Thanks in advance from a newbie.

Could be a couple of things. If the starter does not turn fast enough because of a bad connection or low battery voltage, then the bendix won't engage the engine. If the battery is ok and starter is turning fast enough, then it could be the bendix is stuck or the gear is stripped. If all that checks out then it could just be the starter is bad. Hope this helps:biggrin:

I have the Briggs Brute with electric start, and it does this when the battery is low.. If you run it, and the battery does not charge up you most likely need a new battery.

If you do get it running, and own a voltmeter, your voltage should be between 13.7 and 15.5 with the engine at full speed.:wink:

benski said:

If you do get it running, and own a voltmeter, your voltage should be between 13.7 and 15.5 with the engine at full speed.:wink:

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Are you talking about alternator output or voltage at the battery itself? Based on my experience, over 15 volts output from the alternator will lead to an overcharging condition. Battery voltage with the engine running should be about 14, and no higher than 14.8 with a fully charged battery.

JDgreen said:

Are you talking about alternator output or voltage at the battery itself? Based on my experience, over 15 volts output from the alternator will lead to an overcharging condition. Battery voltage with the engine running should be about 14, and no higher than 14.8 with a fully charged battery.

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Yep, and if its overcharging the VR is bad.. But i am guessing from the description of his problem the lack of power points to a dead battery it might have a dead cell so it wont take charge..

JDgreen said:

Are you talking about alternator output or voltage at the battery itself? Based on my experience, over 15 volts output from the alternator will lead to an overcharging condition. Battery voltage with the engine running should be about 14, and no higher than 14.8 with a fully charged battery.

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Alternator output. Perhaps the most telling test for me is after it gets started, I've experienced high charge rates, and then after a minute or so at full rpm the input voltage should come down to a safe level. These little guys don't put out much current at idle rpm, at least in my experience.

Installed the new battery tonight and have the same problem. I'll examine the starter next, which leads to my next question. I followed the wires to the starter housing and they disappear inside said housing. How are they connected internally? Am I looking at some splicing or are there connectors inside attached with small screws, etc?

Thanks again guys.

LawnDawg43 said:

Installed the new battery tonight and have the same problem. I'll examine the starter next, which leads to my next question. I followed the wires to the starter housing and they disappear inside said housing. How are they connected internally? Am I looking at some splicing or are there connectors inside attached with small screws, etc?

Thanks again guys.

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I will look at mine a.s.a.p. and post up how it connects...

There is actually an external plud/connection-found that. I replaced the interlock switch (very simple) but I still have the same problem: engine turns over but won't start. The starter motor itself is working. I am assuming the bendix at this point? As always, thanks in advance.

LawnDawg43 said:

There is actually an external plud/connection-found that. I replaced the interlock switch (very simple) but I still have the same problem: engine turns over but won't start. The starter motor itself is working. I am assuming the bendix at this point? As always, thanks in advance.

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If the engine turns over but won't start, your possible problems could be fuel delivery, timing, or lack of spark. Is the spark plug indicating that it has any fuel on it after you turn the engine over for about 10 seconds? Have you tried squirting a little gas into the carb while you crank it over? Let us know if either of the things make a change for you.

Would it be fuel delivery, lack of spark, etc. if I can start it with the pull cord but not the electric starter? I've installed a new plug and replaced the air filter element and will clean the fuel lines and carb today to continue eliminating possible problems.

LawnDawg43 said:

Would it be fuel delivery, lack of spark, etc. if I can start it with the pull cord but not the electric starter? I've installed a new plug and replaced the air filter element and will clean the fuel lines and carb today to continue eliminating possible problems.

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If you can start it manually with a pull and the motor turns overwith the starter, I would think there is a safety problem or a problem with your ignition switch.:confused2: Don't really know what you mower looks like but it seems if it starts manually there isn't a problem with your fuel or spark plug.

I misread what was written by the OP. :confused2:If the thing runs fine with just pulling the cord, it must be some kind of lockout for the ignition and electric starter, it would seem.

Has anyone thought of taking the top off the mower and checking the bendix spring? These things often fail and is easy to fix.

To check take the top cowl off the mower and expose the starter motor. You will see the plastic gear that engages to start the mower in electric start condition. Try to start the motor. If the gear does not engage and spin the flywheel, you are a candidate for replacement of the spring and gear. It comes in a kit. Cost is somewhere between 5 and 10 dollars

You will need a tool to remove the spring C clip or E clip that holds the plastic gear on the shaft above the spring. The whole thing is pretty strait forward once you see it.

Good Luck

I had a motorcycle that would do that. The explanation I got was that the starter drew to much current leaving insufficient current for the coil/spark circuit.
It was a design flaw. There was no fix other than to keep the starter lubricated and all the connections perfect. Luckily it would start first kick after it was warm.

Electric Starter Question-SOLVED

I did a few things to finally solve the problem. The original battery WAS dead and the interlock switch had failed so no harm, no foul with those repairs.

I checked all electrical connections and cleaned terminals, etc. and prepared to fire it up and got (yet again) the same result. My twelve year old then casually mentioned that I should adjust the throttle and-voila!-she is running as good as new again.

Thanks to all of you (and my twelve year old son) for the help. On to the next project: A Murray push mower with a Briggs engine missing too many parts to list. This will be a blast!

Re: Electric Starter Question-SOLVED

LawnDawg43 said:

I did a few things to finally solve the problem. The original battery WAS dead and the interlock switch had failed so no harm, no foul with those repairs.

I checked all electrical connections and cleaned terminals, etc. and prepared to fire it up and got (yet again) the same result. My twelve year old then casually mentioned that I should adjust the throttle and-voila!-she is running as good as new again.

Thanks to all of you (and my twelve year old son) for the help. On to the next project: A Murray push mower with a Briggs engine missing too many parts to list. This will be a blast!

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:thumbsup:One down, 17 million to go..:biggrin: