Export thread

My Echo PB 1000 lost blowing power. Thought it was a dirty carb, took it and soaked it in carb cleaner over nite without any good results. I ordered a parts kit and replaced the internals. Now I have fuel blowing back through the choke and into the air filter. Where have I gone wrong? Looking for a good carb answer. Thanks

Have you made sure the gaskets are on correctly? Also with the old carb did it run and loose power or did it nor run?

THANK YOU for your EXCELLENT response. I'm sure you're a good carb person from your response. The blower did run before I took it apart but was not blowing the usual good CFMs. After I posted my thread, I took the carb off again and took it apart awaiting for a respone from the forum. When I took the carb apart I noticed 1 of the 4 screws was not tightened down securely. I have yet to put it back together awaiting for further input from a good carb person to confirm my suspicions and I think you hit the nail on the head. I am going to proceed with the reassembly tightening down all 4 screws. Thanks again, Bob

I do not know what the attitude is about but, I think the smart thing to do is tighten those screws first and see what happens. Since your one screw was not tight the gasket did not seal properly. Like I said. If you have issues past that then there is a more serious issue (obviously).

There are two things that might be going on.
You either have the metering valve set to high or your exhaust port has a build up of carbon.
The metering valve if set to high your blower will flood with to much gas, and you didn't say it was blowing fuel out the carb before you took it apart, but I suspect it was.
When the exhaust port starts clogging with carbon it cause back pressure on the motor because all of the exhaust gasses are not being expelled,which after running just a short while will result in gas being blown back out of the carb.
Check the exhaust port to see if that is the case.

It was the one loose screw not tight enough on the gasket. Thanks

New issue: Now I don't have any spark, even with a new plug. The iginition switch is on. I do check the plug in the dark for a spark. Nothing! Thanks., Bob

If you have a new plug and fresh gas but no spark it may be your ignition coil.

Before I tested the plugs in the dark for a spark, I had tried starting the blower with starting fluid, did not get a sputter. That why I tested the plugs out of the cylinder head in the dark for a spark. Both old & new plugs failed. Where do I find the ignition coil or what may it look like. Thanks., Bob

The ignition coil part number is 156601 05060. The parts list is here. http://www.echo-usa.com/getattachment/2bcc52c5-2730-436c-b3b7-5ba9ecea7dfa/PB1000_1010_040293_3.pdf. I would check your wires first though. Like wiggle them a little and push them a little in the direction the plug in and then try it. If it works then you do not need a ignition coil and just new wires. just warning you though the ignition coils are pretty expensive.

dukerocks said:

It was the one loose screw not tight enough on the gasket. Thanks

New issue: Now I don't have any spark, even with a new plug. The ignition switch is on. I do check the plug in the dark for a spark. Nothing! Thanks., Bob

Click to expand...

Thought I'd chime in my 2 cents worth. Your problem with low power output is the screen on the exhaust port as fireman9513 stated. 99% certain. These screens are very fine and you get a build up of carbon and gunk because of excess idling. (Not supposed to let these little trimmers idle for long).

Here's how to clean it.
1. Pull the spark plug wire off plug. (Mandatory)
2. Remove the two 3 mm hex screws on the side of the recoil starter.
3. Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws holding on the plastic cowling.
4. Remove the two screws holding on the deflector (4 mm hex), gasket and spark arrester screen. This is the screen that's clogged. Try to clean it, but if it really bad, just rotate it 180ｰ and put it back on (only 30% of the screen is actually used, by rotating you will be able to use the other side).
5. While the stuff is off, I suggest you also pull off the muffler and check for carbon deposits at the exhaust port.
6. When putting the screen back on, I find it easiest to tilt the unit back so the screen port is facing up, the you can just lay the screen in place and put the rest of the components back on.
(You may have to replace the gasket if it's torn and hard).
7. Reassemble everything, tighten securely and your done.

This is a 5-minute procedure and needs to be done every 90 days for residential or every 30 days for commercial.
These are cheap and I usually buy extras when I buy one.

As for the failed spark. I guess this is a long shot, but, .....

My neighbor was having problems with his echo. Pull, pull, pull and would not fire. He called me over and I picked up the unit, flipped the switch, pulled it and it started. !!! Shut it off, handed it back to him and he could not get it to start.
That's when I noticed he had forgot to flip the off/on switch to "on". (When it's off you get no spark).
Just a thought, easy to forget.

You are right this needs to be done on a regular basis. And you would be surprised how many people I come across that do not flip that switch. :laughing:

Please consider this thread dead. It is definitely the ignition coil and I am not going to replace - too expensive $80. I just bought a NEW Red Max for $89.
What makes more sense?? Thanks again for all the good posts to help me out. Bob

Mudface777 said:

You are right this needs to be done on a regular basis. And you would be surprised how many people I come across that do not flip that switch. :laughing:

Click to expand...

I've had a few of these. Lol