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Hey guys,

Anyone put one of these conversion kits on before? I've got a mower in the shop that cranks good, has good compression, new spark plugs, but just runs ROUGH! Pulling the choke makes it worse, so don't think it's a clogged carb. Doesn't really sound like a carb problem anyway. More like a mis-fire. I can pull both spark plug wires one at a time and it still runs, so both coils are firing, but just doesn't run good at all. Lot of skipping. Funny looking coils on it right now, they don't sit near the magnet and no metal parts to pick up on the magnet. Sit about 3/8" away from the magnet also, which I thought was weird. Apparently not such a good idea since they made a conversion kit for it to go back to "traditional" coils

Just hoping I'm on the right track with this coil conversion, since its around $100. Part #

32-707-01-S​

Well well just advice with giving any info to work with. We need which Kohler engine you have Model and Spec number at a minimum is needed to see what you are working on. Also a image of you are looking would help too.

What you have is the DSAI ignition system, and they didn't fit close to the flywheel and did look weird. They were the ignition system that originally replaced the SAM style ignition, and there was issues with spike voltage damaging them even with the diode wiring and the clamping diode on the pto clutch. Part of the changing ignition styles is had issues with suppliers discontinuing one style for another style and also change suppliers for ignition parts more than once in this whole conversion process.

StarTech said:

Well well just advice with giving any info to work with. We need which Kohler engine you have Model and Spec number at a minimum is needed to see what you are working on. Also a image of you are looking would help too.

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Ok, thanks for the reply. It's a model # SV735-0016 and has the coils with lots of wires running to them. Three prongs on each coil and 2 wires running to each prong, for a total of 6 wires leading to each coil. I can try to get a picture tomorrow. I believe this is the setup that is on it currently. I pulled it up with the model #

ILENGINE said:

What you have is the DSAI ignition system, and they didn't fit close to the flywheel and did look weird. They were the ignition system that originally replaced the SAM style ignition, and there was issues with spike voltage damaging them even with the diode wiring and the clamping diode on the pto clutch. Part of the changing ignition styles is had issues with suppliers discontinuing one style for another style and also change suppliers for ignition parts more than once in this whole conversion process.

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thanks alot for the info. Do you believe this would be cause for a motor skipping? Running rough?

compression is good, new spark plugs. Both coils are firing, but just runs really poorly and doesn't sound carburetor related to me. You can pull the choke and it gets worse, letting me know it's not a lean fuel problem. And doesn't appear to be getting too much fuel either. No black smoke when it's running, unless you pull the choke.

It does sound like a erratic firing problem really. But not 100% sure

If you have a timing light here is something you can try. Put a paint mark on the rotating screen of the engine. And then start the engine at idle. Make a note of what position that mark is in with the light and mark it on the blower housing, and do the same with both cylinders. Are the two marks 90 degrees apart. and also if you increase the rpms down the timing flash change in relation to the previous mark on the blower housing. Basically you are testing to make sure that both cylinders are firing at the correct time, and that the spark advance is working.

ILENGINE said:

If you have a timing light here is something you can try. Put a paint mark on the rotating screen of the engine. And then start the engine at idle. Make a note of what position that mark is in with the light and mark it on the blower housing, and do the same with both cylinders. Are the two marks 90 degrees apart. and also if you increase the rpms down the timing flash change in relation to the previous mark on the blower housing. Basically you are testing to make sure that both cylinders are firing at the correct time, and that the spark advance is working.

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Thanks alot for that good info. That makes alot of sense.

I don't have a timing light however, and decided to just go ahead and order the conversion kit. It should be here tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow or friday I can find time to install it and give an update. Thanks alot for the help

cbs123 said:

Thanks alot for that good info. That makes alot of sense.

I don't have a timing light however, and decided to just go ahead and order the conversion kit. It should be here tomorrow. Maybe tomorrow or friday I can find time to install it and give an update. Thanks alot for the help

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That wasn't it

May be a cam or something. This motor sounds ROUGH! Think I'm about done with this money pit. It needed a starter too. Kohler Courage are POS

Could you post a video of it running?
have you checked the valve clearance? however you'd think if it's out enough to cause running issues, it would be harder to start.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Could you post a video of it running?
have you checked the valve clearance? however you'd think if it's out enough to cause running issues, it would be harder to start.

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Not sure if ill be able to post a video or not. I may try a little later. Shop has been getting SLAMMED with work. Normal for July/August, but this year has been exceptional. Really sounds like there may be some kind of damage to the internals, I dunno, just sounds rough and unusual. Never heard one quite like it. It cranks pretty easily though..