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Drain hose replace on 2004 hustler 60 inch super z model 927038. With sideways Kohler engine.

#1

C

Campinman

Drain hose replace on 2004 hustler 60 inch super z model 927038. With sideways Kohler engine.
I need to replace the drain hose and I was wondering if anybody has a link to a video on how to do it. It looks like you have to lift the engine up to get the failed one off. What a horrible design. I am the original owner and I did a fix on it but it only lasted 10 years and now it’s leaking and I need to replace it. Also, if you have figured out something different to put on there, any help would be appreciated. I have heard you have to remove all the pulleys and belts from underneath and lift the whole engine up to replace this. What a nightmare. I want to do it myself and I’m sure it’s extremely expensive if I take it to a shop.


#2

StarTech

StarTech

Well if it has a hose drain then someone replace the oil drain in the past.

Hustler 796672
1702843928283.png
And yes you got job ahead of you to access it. I did the same ZTR engine twice in one week back in the Summer. Half a day job when you got the tools and know what you are doing.
Now flexable Drainzit drain hose can used as a replacement.

ANd just think I got a customer that has a transplants Briggs engine and the only to change the air filter is to remove the tail fin.


#3

C

Campinman

Campinman said:
Drain hose replace on 2004 hustler 60 inch super z model 927038. With sideways Kohler engine.
I need to replace this drain hose and I was wondering if anybody has a link to a video on how to do it. It looks like you have to lift the engine up to get the failed one off. What a horrible design. I am the original owner and I did a fix on it but it only lasted 10 years and now it’s leaking and I need to replace it. Also, if you have figured out something different to put on there, any help would be appreciated. I have heard you have to remove all the pulleys and belts from underneath and lift the whole engine up to replace this. What a nightmare. I want to do it myself and I’m sure it’s extremely expensive if I take it to a shop.
Click to expand...


#4

C

Campinman

Crap! I am the original owner. It came with the flexible one. I’d like to install the one you showed. Can you give me any help. Maybe best to pay someone. 🙄


#5

StarTech

StarTech

Well you can check out the Rotary 12259 as the aftermarket version.
1702845301365.png


#6

C

Campinman

Thanks much for help. Do I have to remove the exsaust. Do I have to remove the pulleys? How much comes off to get to engine bolts.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

The muffler will need to comes but the exhaust manifold pipe usually stays on.


#8

C

Campinman

Ok. Thanks. How about underneath, the pulley's etc. Boy glad I had the muffler off about 3 years ago. Hope not fused to manifold again.


#9

C

Campinman

I know u have much better things to do than answer my questions and want you to know I appreciate it. I hate paying someone to do something I may be able do.


#10

I

ILENGINE

Go back and delete your new post with the same subject. It will not increase your exposure, but will cause confusion on getting answers and tends to irritate the people that do most of the question answering.


#11

I

ILENGINE

Most likely you will need to remove the pulleys to get to the engine mounting bolts to at least change the angle on the engine to get to the drain hose. Kohler engines are bad for having the hex on the drain plug fitting or hose so close to the mower frame you have to remove the engine just to be able to turn the hex.


#12

C

Campinman

ILENGINE said:
Most likely you will need to remove the pulleys to get to the engine mounting bolts to at least change the angle on the engine to get to the drain hose. Kohler engines are bad for having the hex on the drain plug fitting or hose so close to the mower frame you have to remove the engine just to be able to turn the hex.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much. I guess you said that because there is NO other way to get it off. If I could get it off would be easy to add the new one that extends out. So the hose does not even have a metal nipple or anything sticking out to try and get ahold of. If I try Anything else I will just mess it all up. I sure do not want to mar the threads inside. I guess I’m going to have to take it in. It just makes me so angry that something so simple will be so much to fix. I do have a lot of tools and some experience. I just can not find any info on how to do the job. I’m going to call hustler see if they can help. I can not find any videos.


#13

StarTech

StarTech

A lot of equipment is getting harder to repair what is simple things. I wish those designer had to work on the equipment for a living.

But yes the PTO clutch has to come off and it might be stuck on if they didn' use anti-seize compound. The engine drive will hard to get due tight drive belt. Even with the drive idler fully retracted the Super Z here I have to walk off and on the drive belt. Then you can access the four engine mounting bolts. The Briggs engine here is mounted with thru bolts so I have remove the RH rear wheel to get into the area with a stubby wrench as there is no clearance to access the nut otherwise. What a pain as it also has two ground cables, flat washer, and lock washer under the nut. Sometime I have use my sponge forceps to hold the wrench.


#14

C

Campinman

I cannot believe what I did and it worked. I thought I’d try it. I ground down one of my cheap old sockets and was able to get it on the drain hose nut after cutting interference out of the way. It came off!! No lifting engine. The hustler replacement part for the piece of crap that came on it is basically a pipe you just screw in with a nipple for a drain hose and a valve on it to open and close to drain.

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#15

7394

7394

A socket called a "Crows foot, would likely have got in there. 1702950862403.jpeg


#16

Mr. Mower

Mr. Mower

StarTech said:
A lot of equipment is getting harder to repair what is simple things. I wish those designer had to work on the equipment for a living.
Click to expand...

It is intentionally and deliberately designed that way.

Reason being....so that you (the owner/buyer of the product) would get discouraged and not want to mess with the hassle, etc. and just take it to an Authorized Service center (hopefully Hustler) and have them do it. Of course if it is not under warranty you (the customer) are going to have to pay for all parts and labor, etc.

That's the way todays many common vehicle engines are now designed.....so that the customer has to take it to the vehicles service center for repairs, maintenance, etc.

Remember it's now all about making $$$$$$$ !


#17

StarTech

StarTech

Mr. Mower said:
It is intentionally and deliberately designed that way.

Reason being....so that you (the owner/buyer of the product) would get discouraged and not want to mess with the hassle, etc. and just take it to an Authorized Service center (hopefully Hustler) and have them do it. Of course if it is not under warranty you (the customer) are going to have to pay for all parts and labor, etc.

That's the way todays many common vehicle engines are now designed.....so that the customer has to take it to the vehicles service center for repairs, maintenance, etc.

Remember it's now all about making $$$$$$$ !
Click to expand...
The problem is even us in the shops get frustrated at the stupidity of some designs. Things like having mower frames design with square carriage bolt holes and the dang OEM factory uses regular cap screws where you have to unbolt the whole fender pan just to get a wrench of the hex head when if a carriage bolt used it is simply a slight pull while loosening and tightening on the nuts. Lots of wasted labor time period. Even if you are charging for it, it is still a waste of time.

Or like having take an ATV half apart just to remove the carburetor.


#18

Mr. Mower

Mr. Mower

I totally agree!

At first I used to think, how could anyone with an engineering degree design something so cumbersome and senseless.


#19

StarTech

StarTech

I think most designs are more factory assembly line friendly than tech friendly. Otherwords what is the quickest way to assemble these machines to cut costs.


#20

I

ILENGINE

And sometimes the design of the engine would allow for easy and simple maintenance and repair, but that same engine mounted into a piece of equipment may not be maintenance or repair friendly.

If people think the engine is hard to access on a mower and complain about what it takes to repair or service the engine needs to go open the engine covers on a skid steer. Or see what it takes to change the spark plugs in their vehicle. Some auto engines have the spark plugs under the intake manifold and require removing the manifold to access the coils and plugs.


#21

StarTech

StarTech

Like a customer that has a Caddy where the intake manifold has to be removed just to change the spark plugs.


#22

7394

7394

yep..........


#23

C

Campinman

ILENGINE said:
And sometimes the design of the engine would allow for easy and simple maintenance and repair, but that same engine mounted into a piece of equipment may not be maintenance or repair friendly.

If people think the engine is hard to access on a mower and complain about what it takes to repair or service the engine needs to go open the engine covers on a skid steer. Or see what it takes to change the spark plugs in their vehicle. Some auto engines have the spark plugs under the intake manifold and require removing the manifold to access the coils and plugs.
Click to expand...

Campinman said:
Drain hose replace on 2004 hustler 60 inch super z model 927038. With sideways Kohler engine.
I need to replace the drain hose and I was wondering if anybody has a link to a video on how to do it. It looks like you have to lift the engine up to get the failed one off. What a horrible design. I am the original owner and I did a fix on it but it only lasted 10 years and now it’s leaking and I need to replace it. Also, if you have figured out something different to put on there, any help would be appreciated. I have heard you have to remove all the pulleys and belts from underneath and lift the whole engine up to replace this. What a nightmare. I want to do it myself and I’m sure it’s extremely expensive if I take it to a shop.
Click to expand...
So I’m wondering why all the shops are saying you have to lift engine to replace this oil drain on my mower. What I did was just cut all rubber away and use a thin wall socket on it and I removed it. I guess they just like getting the work or are following some guideline from manufacturer. Saved either a lot of work for me or paying 350$ to do the job. Wtf.


#24

I

ILENGINE

Campinman said:
So I’m wondering why all the shops are saying you have to lift engine to replace this oil drain on my mower. What I did was just cut all rubber away and use a thin wall socket on it and I removed it. I guess they just like getting the work or are following some guideline from manufacturer. Saved either a lot of work for me or paying 350$ to do the job. Wtf.
Click to expand...
How long did it take you to replace the drain hose on your mower.


#25

C

Campinman

ILENGINE said:
How long did it take you to replace the drain hose on your mower.
Click to expand...
The way I did it. 15 minutes. They call for 2 hours Lifting motor to do it. It did take me a sleepless night to come up with an idea. I thought I’d try it in the morning and it worked.


#26

I

ILENGINE

Sometimes you get lucky and can find ways of getting around the standard procedure. I have come across a few drain plug hoses that you had to at least loosen the engine mounting bolts because the frame would act like a lock on the wrench hex preventing if from turning more than a 1/8 turn even if you could get to it with a wrench.

Just an example I worked on a 3 cylinder gas Kubota in a Z turn and a similar 3 cylinder diesel Kubota in a mini skid steer this year that both needed the fan belt tightened. The gas engine took about 10 minutes to loosen the alternator bolts and tighten the belt. The diesel took 2 people 1.5 hours to tighten the belt. One person had to reach over the top of the engine between the fan shroud and reach through the belt to put a flex head wrench on the lower alternator belt after finding it by feel because the only way to physically see the bolt was with a mirror looking straight down. The other person had to use a wobble socket and a long extension to get enough clearance between the engine block and the frame with the ratchet to be able to turn the nut.


#27

StarTech

StarTech

Sorta like those plastic drain valves on the Kawasaki engine that are a double "D" nut. Have to pull the engine to use a wrench or crowfoot wrench. SO I just make my own tool for doing it while the engines are still on the ZTRs.


#28

7394

7394

StarTech said:
Sorta like those plastic drain valves on the Kawasaki engine that are a double "D" nut. Have to pull the engine to use a wrench or crowfoot wrench. SO I just make my own tool for doing it while the engines are still on the ZTRs.
Click to expand...
I just used a utility knife to cut off the plastic hose barb, & threaded the remaining drain out. Then threaded in my Kawasaki OE drain line.
I did use a 1" crowfoot to give it a snug when it was weeping. Till I got to do the hose swap.


#29

StarTech

StarTech

The problem I ran into the Kawasaki engines here is that a regular crowfoot will not work. That why I had to make my own modified crowfoot tool out an old idler arm.

But these plastic drain valves are nothing but trouble as they will leak over time and you are constantly having to replace them.


#30

7394

7394

I hear ya man. The hex on mine was in right position so crowfoot did work.

I would never replace one plastic drain w/another.. My plastic drain weeped, so I added a piece (1" long) of drain hose, I blocked it on one end, & 2 baby hose clamps on it till I did the Hose swap.. Never a hint of a leak.


#31

C

Campinman

I Just finished redoing the drain hose. I Used 1 ft of hose and reused the engine side nipple/plug drain and made one. I had to install the engine side 1st then put the hose on it. Zip tied to the body. Did not have to lift the engine No leaks sad so far.


#32

7394

7394

Pic of it would be great to see..


#33

L

Lilranch2001

ILENGINE said:
Sometimes you get lucky and can find ways of getting around the standard procedure. I have come across a few drain plug hoses that you had to at least loosen the engine mounting bolts because the frame would act like a lock on the wrench hex preventing if from turning more than a 1/8 turn even if you could get to it with a wrench.

Just an example I worked on a 3 cylinder gas Kubota in a Z turn and a similar 3 cylinder diesel Kubota in a mini skid steer this year that both needed the fan belt tightened. The gas engine took about 10 minutes to loosen the alternator bolts and tighten the belt. The diesel took 2 people 1.5 hours to tighten the belt. One person had to reach over the top of the engine between the fan shroud and reach through the belt to put a flex head wrench on the lower alternator belt after finding it by feel because the only way to physically see the bolt was with a mirror looking straight down. The other person had to use a wobble socket and a long extension to get enough clearance between the engine block and the frame with the ratchet to be able to turn the nut.
Click to expand...
How does a one man shop do something like that?


#34

C

Campinman

7394 said:
Pic of it would be great to see..
Click to expand...

7394 said:
Pic of it would be great to see..
Click to expand...


#35

C

Campinman

Says pic to large🤷‍♂️


#36

I

ILENGINE

Lilranch2001 said:
How does a one man shop do something like that?
Click to expand...
Nephew helps with two person jobs. and I in turn help him with his stump removal business. the skid steer is his.


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