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Dixon 429 relay wiring

#1

I

iowaztr

Have a 1992 Dixon 429 bought this spring and used it twice. While mowing it just up and died for no apparent reason and upon investigating found the part of the wiring harness under the key fell down and the end with the relay was ran through the chain and sprocket destroying the relay, connector, and pulling some of the wires out of the connector.

Bought a new relay and it has 5 prongs, mangled connector looks like it had 5 prongs but only 4 were used. I have 2 loose yellow (1 to ing. switch, other to ?) wires and 1 white wire and looks like 2 may have been jumpered in the connector. Trying to splice new wires with connectors to the old wiring and relay. White wire is obvious with the mangled connector but anybody know where the yellow wires hook up to on the relay?

Stopped at a former Dixon dealer and he wasn't too interested in giving me any information on what goes were with the relay wiring.


#2

EngineMan

EngineMan

Check first.......

White bottom left = clutch

yellow bottom middle = brake

yellow bottom right together (connected) with yellow top = diode

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#3

I

iowaztr

Thanks for the diagram. Will try it this weekend.


#4

I

iowaztr

Confusion first thing already!

I have a wire that runs to the ingnition switch and one that goes to the wire bundle.None to a brake(?). Shape of connector in the drawing matches mine but not the terminology.


#5

EngineMan

EngineMan

Try this one its for a Dixon 428 which should be about the same....

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#6

EngineMan

EngineMan

This one is for the 429.......1989 year

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#7

I

iowaztr

Thanks for more info and diagrams.

The one for the 428 gives the colors of wires but I can't find what "brake" the are talking about. Also mine looks like the ignition switch wire goes directly to the relay instead of through a plug.

The second drawing for the 429 looks more like what I have but no wire colors are listed and their position in connecting to the relay.

Getting closer to the answer, would I ruin the new relay by trying different combination of wire hook ups?


#8

EngineMan

EngineMan

Post up the relay numbers when it is plug into the below pic, from what I understand is the yellows are 12v + ( you say from the key switch) bottom left in the below pic = clutch - (ground), middle bottom goes to the seat switch,

relays work by.....four post.....1 for 12v+, 1 for 12v - (ground) the other two are in and out ie when you put power into one of them (lets say post 3), when the relay is powered on power goes across to post 4, its just a switch...!

look at it has 4 post....

2 for 12v + and ground - (makes the relay work)

2 for in power and out power......... look at the pic for the relay (below) post 86/85 are to make it switch 12v + can be on any of these too - ground on the other, post 87/30 are the out (switch) again any way round will do.

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#9

I

iowaztr

In my google search I figured I needed relay part# 4384 which was discontinued and cross referenced to several part#s including part# 539102914 which I ordered. It has 5 prongs and looks like it matches up to the mangled plug but the wiring diagram looks like it only used 4 of the slots? Is the the correct relay?

Just throwing this out.... serial number is 42-5284, should be a 1992 if I looked it up correctly.

Plan on getting a new test light as mine got stepped on while initially trying to sort this out and see what wires need to be hot or not.


#10

EngineMan

EngineMan

Post 87A on relays are sometimes not used, they are open or closed when powered on.

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#11

I

iowaztr

2 steps forward, 1 step back.

Engine now turns over, with key on I can hear the bladed clutch "click" when I move the switch to engage/disengage. Engine will not start.

Seat switch was also pulled out from it's connector but looks okay so I just plugged it back in. If this was damaged also would it still allow the engine to turn over and not start or as on some mowers I have had the engine shouldn't even turn over.

Should have asked this first, is there any way to bypass the relay?


#12

EngineMan

EngineMan

2 steps forward, 1 step back.

Engine now turns over, with key on I can hear the bladed clutch "click" when I move the switch to engage/disengage. Engine will not start.

Seat switch was also pulled out from it's connector but looks okay so I just plugged it back in. If this was damaged also would it still allow the engine to turn over and not start or as on some mowers I have had the engine shouldn't even turn over.

Should have asked this first, is there any way to bypass the relay?

Clutch switch is to put on and off the clutch and kill the engine if any of the others switchers are not set right for startup, if you feel the relay is not working just replace it. its one you can buy anywhere.


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