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Hydraulic line recently came off while mowing. I reset the hydraulic line on the pump (right side if your sitting on Dixie). I replaced the hydraulic oil. I jacked the Dixie Chopper up and ran it for several minutes. Then test drove it. The left side hydraulic arm stops working after about 15 minutes or the engine is hot. I re-jacked the Dixie back up and ran it for nearly 17 minutes testing the hydraulic arms. The right side is ok, but the left side stops working. No noise or that hydraulic grinding sound it just stops working and not hydraulic pressure. I lifted the seat and there is no hydraulic fluid sprayed around the engine area nor is there any on the ground. Any ideas for me? I'm not 100% sure how to bleed the air out of the hydraulic lines or maybe I have something else going on. Any help / ideas is greatly appreciated. The tractor is currently jacked up so I can test again.

Thank You
L.S.

Re: Dixie Chopper Hydraulics Issue More Information

7/14/2015 - More information Dixix 3200XT
I replaced the hydraulic fluid with Lucas 15/40 Magnum Motor Oil (Part # 10076) per the Routine Maintenance section of the Operation Manual. I also replaced the hydraulic oil filters with the same Dixie brand. I ran the Dixie for 22 minutes jacked up and it seemed to run ok. I tested again today for another 20 minutes on the jacks and the hydraulics seem to work ok. However, when I take the Dixie off the jack stands and attempt to move forward the driving side (left side if seated) seems to have a slight grind sound and it does not move. I have over 40 minutes of testing time on the. No leaks either. Any suggestions is appreciated.

Thank You
L.S.[/QUOTE]

Seems to be a rush on drive posts these last days.

The whole drive system shares a common oil reserve?
The oil you pulled out after resetting RGT side line, it was
in good order or?
Like no metal frags or fines?

Plenty of people looking at this thread yet none commenting.
I reckon you will be stripping that left drive down and posting
what you find.

Trust that helps some.

KK

Hello

Yes lots of views but no suggestions.

The old hydraulic fluid looked ok, but I went ahead and replaced it with the recommended Hydraulic fluid per Dixie Chopper Operations manual. I'm thinking there may still be air in the line, but I thought after running the hydraulics for 20 minutes while the DC was jacked up would clear out the air.

My local tech guy suggested that I open the release valve about 3/4 turn and run the DC to try and force air out then re-tighten back down (5/8" bolt with hole thru it) These are the same bolts that can be loosened to allow for free wheel movement if you were to physically push the mower around a shop floor for example. I will try that tonight to see what happens.

I'm open to other suggestions as well......

KrashnKraka said:

Seems to be a rush on drive posts these last days.

The whole drive system shares a common oil reserve?
The oil you pulled out after resetting RGT side line, it was
in good order or?
Like no metal frags or fines?

Plenty of people looking at this thread yet none commenting.
I reckon you will be stripping that left drive down and posting
what you find.

Trust that helps some.

KK

Click to expand...

Sounds like you have some air in the lines. Keep purging

LSnapp said:

Hello

Yes lots of views but no suggestions.

The old hydraulic fluid looked ok, but I went ahead and replaced it with the recommended Hydraulic fluid per Dixie Chopper Operations manual. I'm thinking there may still be air in the line, but I thought after running the hydraulics for 20 minutes while the DC was jacked up would clear out the air.

Click to expand...

That is my understanding of these drives.

My local tech guy suggested that I open the release valve about 3/4 turn and run the DC to try and force air out then re-tighten back down (5/8" bolt with hole thru it) These are the same bolts that can be loosened to allow for free wheel movement if you were to physically push the mower around a shop floor for example. I will try that tonight to see what happens.

I'm open to other suggestions as well......

Click to expand...

And this is a common oil system?
So the bypass valve isn't relative to the problem
of one drive functioning whilst the other 'stalls'.
Try bleeding by all means, there may be a pocket of air trapped buttttttt chances are......
You will be looking inside the left side.

KK

To purge; jack off the floor, open the bypass valve 2-3 turns, start engine and run at mowing rpm, move the motion lever forward and backward 6-8 times, drop machine to floor, close the bypass valve and repeat forward and backward 6-8 times. The bypass valve does just that, it bypasses the fluid from the wheel motor and sends it back thru the reservoir & filter. gregjo1948