Export thread

I have a 2019 Hustler FasTrak SDX 60" with Flex Forks added. It had been my brother's, but he passed away in 2023. I have been cutting the grass with it because my plan is to move back into the old family home, where he had resided. Right now I mow between 2 and 3 acres, but once I'm in the home, it will only be about 2 acres. I have been planting trees and I'll be planting more. I feel that this mower is too big for me as I am 5'4" and I will soon be 70 yrs young. I have been getting offers with this as a trade in, but I think that I could get more if I sold it out right. It's in average condition as I have gotten a few scrapes on the deck because my depth perception is a bit off. My mowing area is not totally flat. I'm thinking I would do better with a 48" deck. One place offered $2200 for a trade in and the other offered $3000. I was looking at a Bad Boy for the lower trade in and the second I was looking at a Hustler FasTrak SDX 48". In the area I live, it's Hustler vs Bad Boy vs Spartan, then there are also Toros, John Deere, Cub Cadets, Gravelys, Dixie, etc. I want something low maintenance-long lasting, with enough power to cut Zoysia grass, and can cut up and down small hills. I have two questions. How much is my present mower worth in this market (range)? What is my best option for a low maintenance-long lasting mower? My brother had a company come get this one and service it yearly and I did the same for last year. If it's not traded in or sold, I will do the same this year to maintain with upkeep.

Another question:
Let me ask this, is there a reason as to why by the end of summer the deck starts scalping the lawn(field)? I do check the air in all 4 tires before I start. I even stopped one time and rechecked. It leaves large divots. Then there is about a 3 ft hill that is about 30 ft long and I can't get the grass to look even. I've decided to plant boxwood shrubs along it so I won't have to cut it.

I've planted 6 trees and I'm in the process of planting 6 more. I have also ordered some conifers. How I'm planting these will still allow for a 60' deck to pass through. With all these obstacles I know I'll have to go slower, but I go half speed anyway. In another year or so I would probably do better with the old lawn tractor style because of the trees. I don't know.

Husqvarna, Husqvarna, Husqvarna. Get a Husqvarna zTr with a Kawasaki And it'll probably outlast you lol.

sMw said:

I have a 2019 Hustler FasTrak SDX 60" with Flex Forks added. It had been my brother's, but he passed away in 2023. I have been cutting the grass with it because my plan is to move back into the old family home, where he had resided. Right now I mow between 2 and 3 acres, but once I'm in the home, it will only be about 2 acres. I have been planting trees and I'll be planting more. I feel that this mower is too big for me as I am 5'4" and I will soon be 70 yrs young. I have been getting offers with this as a trade in, but I think that I could get more if I sold it out right. It's in average condition as I have gotten a few scrapes on the deck because my depth perception is a bit off. My mowing area is not totally flat. I'm thinking I would do better with a 48" deck. One place offered $2200 for a trade in and the other offered $3000. I was looking at a Bad Boy for the lower trade in and the second I was looking at a Hustler FasTrak SDX 48". In the area I live, it's Hustler vs Bad Boy vs Spartan, then there are also Toros, John Deere, Cub Cadets, Gravelys, Dixie, etc. I want something low maintenance-long lasting, with enough power to cut Zoysia grass, and can cut up and down small hills. I have two questions. How much is my present mower worth in this market (range)? What is my best option for a low maintenance-long lasting mower? My brother had a company come get this one and service it yearly and I did the same for last year. If it's not traded in or sold, I will do the same this year to maintain with upkeep.

Click to expand...

Hustler is a decent mower. Just keep the one you got for 2 acres, 12” is not that big of a difference. The hours, engine type, hydros, brand, condition and features determine the value of a zero turn.

I second keeping what you have. The difference between 60" and 48" is 6" on each side, not much. I think for several thousand $ savings you could learn to mow with it. If depth of perception is off then I'm not sure a narrower deck would solve the problem. Could you put florescent tape on the deck to help see the edges?

Keep what you have. New doesn't mean new these days like it used to. Older machines are built better.

slomo said:

Keep what you have. New doesn't mean new these days like it used to. Older machines are built better.

Click to expand...

I have it picked up, taken in, and serviced.

Let me ask this, is there a reason as to why by the end of summer the deck starts scalping the lawn? I do check the air in all 4 tires before I start. I even stopped one time and rechecked. It leaves large divots. Then there is about a 3 ft hill that is about 30 ft long and I can't get the grass to look even. I've decided to plant boxwood shrubs along it so I won't have to cut it.

I've planted 6 trees and I'm in the process of planting more. I have also ordered some conifers. How I'm planting these will still allow for a 60' deck to pass through. With all these obstacles I know I'll have to go slower, but I go half speed anyway. In another year or so I would probably do better with the old lawn tractor style. I don't know.

Normally in OKC, we have a summer drought. Could be your grass is drying out letting the mower sink to the dirt resulting in a lower cut. Raise the deck if you want a taller cut.

I know what I said about drying out sounds weird. I have some Zoysia that FLOATS my entire mower with me on it. You feel like you are on a rug so to say. That grass is so dense and thick.....

If you are looking for a manicured lawn, 0 turns are terrible. You must have near flat ground and alternate cutting directions. If you have a 60" deck then you have a lot of grass to cut. Leveling the yard will help.

Trees are great and all, but, keep them away from your foundation. Didn't sound like you are doing this. Talking about roots getting into pipes. That is a never ending plumbers call LOL. More trees as you said will take more time to cut.

slomo said:

Normally in OKC, we have a summer drought. Could be your grass is drying out letting the mower sink to the dirt resulting in a lower cut. Raise the deck if you want a taller cut.

I know what I said about drying out sounds weird. I have some Zoysia that FLOATS my entire mower with me on it. You feel like you are on a rug so to say. That grass is so dense and thick.....

If you are looking for a manicured lawn, 0 turns are terrible. You must have near flat ground and alternate cutting directions. If you have a 60" deck then you have a lot of grass to cut. Leveling the yard will help.

Trees are great and all, but, keep them away from your foundation. Didn't sound like you are doing this. Talking about roots getting into pipes. That is a never ending plumbers call LOL. More trees as you said will take more time to cut.

Click to expand...

So in your opinion, on acreage, what gives better cut quality than a good zero turn mower? When you drive by a nice lawn and you see all those beautiful stripes that pop, how do you think they got there? A 21” self-propelled mower, a 48” walk behind, a 42” riding mower Murray? Give me a break please. Nothing, and I mean nothing, beats a good zero turn for speed, reliability, productivity, and cut quality.

Tiger Small Engine said:

So in your opinion, on acreage, what gives better cut quality than a good zero turn mower? When you drive by a nice lawn and you see all those beautiful stripes that pop, how do you think they got there? A 21” self-propelled mower, a 48” walk behind, a 42” riding mower Murray? Give me a break please. Nothing, and I mean nothing, beats a good zero turn for speed, reliability, productivity, and cut quality.

Click to expand...

Don't forget all the massive rutting going on with those 2,000+ pound behemoths. Turf compaction every time you mow. Going over it again and again and again and again and again trying to get the clippings small enough to pass for a nice looking lawn. If you have hard pan clay soil like I do, a military tank 0-turn is not your friend. I'm trying to turn my soil around for the better.

Yes a 21" pusher gives the best cut out there. Much easier to work on. Cheaper to keep going. Less blades to sharpen and balance. Easier to store. Can load one in a pickup by myself with no silly ramps. Cheaper on fuel and oil. Just need one spark plug. I can bag with my pusher. I can mulch weeds if I want. I can side sling if I care. Just my opinion. Use what you want.

Strange I seem to mow hills with my zero turns and don't have ruts in my yard.

slomo said:

Don't forget all the massive rutting going on with those 2,000+ pound behemoths. Turf compaction every time you mow. Going over it again and again and again and again and again trying to get the clippings small enough to pass for a nice looking lawn. If you have hard pan clay soil like I do, a military tank 0-turn is not your friend. I'm trying to turn my soil around for the better.

Yes a 21" pusher gives the best cut out there. Much easier to work on. Cheaper to keep going. Less blades to sharpen and balance. Easier to store. Can load one in a pickup by myself with no silly ramps. Cheaper on fuel and oil. Just need one spark plug. I can bag with my pusher. I can mulch weeds if I want. I can side sling if I care. Just my opinion. Use what you want.

Click to expand...

All those lawn services out there with 21” self-propelled mowers being super productive on acreage all day long, Not!
You change the mowing pattern every week with a zero turn. Zero turns range in weight from 800 pounds to 2200, with around 1100 being a good average. If the ground is really wet you can rut up the yard, but under normal conditions, no rutting occurs. You obviously just don’t like zero turns. It’s a pity you never really experienced the joy of mowing with a good mower.

slomo said:

Normally in OKC, we have a summer drought. Could be your grass is drying out letting the mower sink to the dirt resulting in a lower cut. Raise the deck if you want a taller cut.

I know what I said about drying out sounds weird. I have some Zoysia that FLOATS my entire mower with me on it. You feel like you are on a rug so to say. That grass is so dense and thick.....

If you are looking for a manicured lawn, 0 turns are terrible. You must have near flat ground and alternate cutting directions. If you have a 60" deck then you have a lot of grass to cut. Leveling the yard will help.

Trees are great and all, but, keep them away from your foundation. Didn't sound like you are doing this. Talking about roots getting into pipes. That is a never ending plumbers call LOL. More trees as you said will take more time to cut.

Click to expand...

I use the air compressor to blow it off after each cutting and sometimes wipe it all down. There is an air filter with easy access that I also blow out regularly. No trees are going around the house and my choice of boxwood + juniper are limited to height. They will be planted closer to the road because they are to help soften the summer noise in front of a bedroom window. I've planted the tallest trees in the back field. I think that eventually I should just get the tractor style mower. They have them with much larger decks than they did 50 years ago. I guess it will all depend on how the trees do. I read a review on the difference between them and zero turns. The tractor mower is a slower, more comfortable, ride and zero turns are a more active ride and bouncy. I didn't mention that I have a lot of moles at the end of summer. The back field used to be a horse and cow pasture. The front side yard would need to be filled in to level it all. There is a lot of unevenness. I already go slow and take my time. That's why there are more hours on the zero turn after two years. What took my brother about 2.5 hrs takes me around 4.5 hrs. I also re-cut sometimes, and I have changed direction on each mow. Some parts are more difficult doing that because of the neighbor's chain link fence.