Export thread

Hi all,

I'm new around here. I purchased a used Hayter power trim which has a Tecumseh lev115 engine fitted. It started but ran terribly. Missing back firing etc. I removed carb and found float was full of fuel. cleaned carb. Still no good now wouldn't start at all. Removed flywheel and coil. Checked flywheel key OK.
Bought replacement carb still no good. Spark seemed weak to me so bought new coil but still no good actually seems worse than the old one. Pulling hair out so unless anyone has some real knowledge on how to fix it I'm thinking will a Honda GCV engine fit?

When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float, plus the float needle and seat? Please supply us with the spec number for the engine. With that we can give you better directions as to how to proceed.

Hi
Thanks for the reply. The engine number is lev115 350120D
Under that it says WTPXS 185 1BA

I didn't replace the needle and seat just the float and bowl rubber sealing ring and rings on tube but top part of tube where the ring fits on was separate from the rest, just sits in the top.

If it came into the shop with these symptoms I would be replacing the float needle and seat, part number 631021B, I use this procedure.

Needle and seat replacement.

Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.

I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.

With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.

PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.

Thanks for the detailed carb rebuild info. However I did fit a new replacement carb after attempting to rebuild mine and this made no difference!
Is it not the fact that the spark is so weak that's the problem?

A weak spark is very hard to detect unless you have a spark tester where you can change the gap and check the gap where it is no long able to jump the gap. Sorry, but there are very few people who can detect a weak spark by eye sight. You said you got a new coil, yes you could have a bad coil, but did you set the air gap properly at .010? Your initial problem was fuel and if you did not clean and rebuild the carb properly, I would go back and start there. You asked for help, but if you feel I’m off Base throw a new engine at it.

Well I think you may well be correct as I just removed the flywheel just to be sure and the key is in two bits!
So the carb probably was the original problem. I take what you say about the weak shark detection so basically if there is a spark that is good enough then. I did see amongst the specs that the spark only reaches full potency at 3000rpm so just flicking it over would just be a small spark?
Will post a further report once I have the new key.

Update:

Well re-built carb with new seat and needle, new O rings etc. Engine now will only run with easy start sprayed into air intake, same as with the New carb I bought!
Basically it only runs with the worn out punctured float and old needle and seat.

Now completely at a loss.

Lots of questions. Did your new carb have part number 640262A? This is the OEM carb, not a ”universal Chinese carb”. Second when you rebuilt the old carb, did you follow my procedure and install kit number 631021B, plus adjust the float slightly rich? This make for easy starting. Third, when you replaced the flywheel key, did you set the air gap at .010”? Fourth, did you replace the carb gasket to insure no air leaks? Finally, have you checked to make sure that fuel is reaching the carb?

Hi Rivets,

The new carb turned out to be the wrong one. You are right that 640262A is the correct one, and that is the one that equates to carb number 505 as stamped on my original carb. I used an Intagarden kit which was the only one I could find that was in the UK and not the USA. Which came from JAPG in Hereford this matched the needle and seat numbers of 631021B and nose O rings 632547 from the Tecumseh parts finder site I found. I had already fitted a new petrol tank as mine was badly cracked and I just put new petrol in it.
I'm just about at the end of my tether with this one. I have a 1927 boat with the original engine complete with Mag and that starts 1st time and runs sweetly (re built by me) So this one is beating me!

Before throwing in the towel, try setting the float slightly rich. To do this bend the float tab so that the float is about 1/16” (roughly 2 mm) higher by the float pin or lower on the opposite side.

Will do. I'll report back tomorrow. Fingers crossed

Hi Well now, I followed your advice to the letter and hey after 1st flooding the plug it then started and ran on and on BUT there just had to be a but, it sounds like every 3rd beat it misses and then acasionaly blows back but carries on running and starting straight away.

I do have a vid of the sounds. Look forward to see what you think.

I’m an old fart, I don’t do videos well. You might have gone a hair too rich and will have to tweak it back a bit leaner.

I have a photo of the plug after running for a few mins but it's too large to attach it says. Do you have what's app at all?
Anyway it's black around the outside and darkish brown around the insulator and very slightly lighter in the centre.

upload the image to a image hosting site, then post the link here.

Thanks Try this one

Looks like it might be running a little rich too me, but I’ve seen worse. Did you try tweaking the float level a tiny bit?

Not yet, it's been raining here all day so maybe tomorrow. I'll let you know asap.