If you're talking about the fuse just off of the starter solenoid, checked it. It's goodLook for the 15 amp main fuse and check it. If it is blown and you was using the elecric clutch then it is possible that the electric clutch is partially shorted or have bad place touching ground at random
I appreciate the write up. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm quite savvy. Have an entire workshop of tools including multimeters. However, I don't think it's a solenoid or any sort of main power issue. A bad solenoid or fuse wouldn't cause it to suddenly due while mowing. That's why I'm leaning more towards one of the safety switches or some sort of relay. I bypassed the seat safety switch. I'm going to check the break switches next. So my question is, what else is there? There's alot going on in the PTO engage switch. Wondering if it could be in there?Time for electrical troubleshooting. Here is the procedure I use, but others do it in other ways.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Replaced both the PTO and Ignition switch. They were cheap on Amazon. Not sure which one it was, but that did the trick.
It does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battleYou replaced two parts without troubleshooting the actual issue. I am glad you got it resolved and repaired, however, replacing parts does not “make you savvy.” Just like I don’t work on electrical engineering issues everyday, you don’t go hands on with outdoor power equipment everyday. Nothing replaces real world experience.
Ya'll talk alot of shit for people who offered no help what so ever. The issue is fixed with minimal time, effort, and $$$ Go strut your tiny balls elsewhere.Just another person that just throws parts at a problem and hope to hit on the solution.
If you were so tech savvy you would have use the electrical schematic and figure where the problem. but most DIYers are too lazy to learn how to read electrical schematics.
You just got lucky as it could had been a starter relay or neutral safety switch or even mouse chewed wire. The seat only controls the kill relay and fuel solenoid.
View attachment 67416
What he doesn't realize is that even if he change the switches a faulty Delphi terminal could still be at fault; although, it is making contact for now if he didn't inspect the terminals. This why you troubleshoot a problem instead just throwing parts at it and hoping you found the problem. He sounds like the mechanics at new car dealers that just throw parts at a problem and charge the customer for those parts even the parts replaced were not bad.
That is like the time I had brought a new car and a week later it failed. The first thing the dealer shop barked was that they didn't if it was covered or not by the bumper to bumper warranty. Boy did they changed their mind when I called my lawyer. They gave me a list of things they replaced including the actual failed part, the distributor. They still tried billing me for all those parts and labor but I had them by the balls in writing. I don't know they ever got that $8,000 from Plymouth or not but I didn't pay them one red cent.
I had one DIYer that changed everything major starting component wise trying to fix a starting issue to only finally give up and bring the mower into the shop. The problem was a fifty cent Delphi terminal. He spend well over $400 on electrical parts and still didn't fix the problem. What worst he had thrown away perfectly good parts.
For education it is only worth it when you know how to apply it. Beside most schools, colleges, and universities are not fully up to date on the latest information. There is still a lot OTJ self training a person has to do. That is if they are willing to try to learn new things. I got one member of the family that has a four college degree that couldn't even fry an egg without a YouTube video and he designs computers for a living. He had depended on his wife to do the cooking until she died.
As a Professional engineer AND a believer in logical troubleshooting I have to ask why you bother requesting advice on this forum as you are obviously much more "savvy" than any of us could ever hope to be. Glad I don't have to interface with you in the engineering world.It does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battle
I followed this post & see you have repaired the issue. Just for a possible future "died suddenly" issue I had several units that had bad coils. A bad coil will shut down a running unit, once cooled off it will allow it to start again. Although a bad coil will not prevent the engine from turning over. Stay safe, Joe ZHey guys. 2015 hustler raptor 60", Kohler engine. While mulching leaves today, she just died suddenly. She won't even turn over. Gas and battery are fine. I bypassed the seat switch (just jumped the wires together) and that did nothing. What else could it be???
I appreciate the write up. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm quite savvy. Have an entire workshop of tools including multimeters. However, I don't think it's a solenoid or any sort of main power issue. A bad solenoid or fuse wouldn't cause it to suddenly due while mowing. That's why I'm leaning more towards one of the safety switches or some sort of relay. I bypassed the seat safety switch. I'm going to check the break switches next. So my question is, what else is there? There's alot going on in the PTO engage switch. Wondering if it could be in there?Sir
Heh Tim The ME I am an ME TOO, TIM....Be a polite ME, TIM Don't give us ME's a bad Name... Tim I was also an Aircraft Maintenance Specialist in the USAF for many years Tim... That does not make an experienced lawn mower/small equipment Mechanic ... 99% of These gentlemen and sometimes ladies too are more then ready to share their MANY years of doing this as a living with more knowledge,experience and savy than any weekend warrior who just happens to have a four year degree in what-ever-one may have Doctor Lawyer ME Indian Chief.. Some of them have degrees too ....remember to be and play nice in the spirit of the holidaysIt does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battle
And THIS IS EXACTLY why I very rarely even look at this forum any more. Less of a community of mower enthusiasts, more of a pissing contest.It does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battle
From reading this post, not sure why you even needed to come on here and ask for help! Good luck next time you ask for help, treating people as you do.It does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battle
Check the 15 amp fuse holder for corrosion. The fuse might be good but the fuse holder could be corroded and not making contact. I've had that happen to me, similar symptoms.Look for the 15 amp main fuse and check it. If it is blown and you was using the elecric clutch then it is possible that the electric clutch is partially shorted or have bad place touching ground at random
this one is damaged goods folks....just ignore. he's obviously here for one reason only...and it is not advice to fix a mower. just ignore. don't feed the moron.Alright look ladies. I came to ya'll with an issue. After a week and a half of no help, I took my limited knowledge and went with what I knew. It's not a main power issue (you'd know that if you read my OP). There's 2 switches, and 2 relays that would cause the machine to shut off suddenly during operation if they failed. Switches are 10x more likely to fail. Both switches were old and ugly. Both switches were $15 on Amazon. Replaced, fixed, end of story. But for some reason that triggered all the sissies on this site and I caught all kinds off butthurt hell. I only mentioned my credentials when ya'll started attacking my intelligence. Ya'll sound like a bunch of fuckin Biden lovers
Kinda rude to a guy who was spending HIS time to try and help you out. A really smart guy wouldn't need to ask for help here.It does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battle
And THIS IS EXACTLY why I very rarely even look at this forum any more. Less of a community of mower enthusiasts, more of a pissing contest.
Dude. The guy was just trying to be helpful. No need for a reply like that. Besides, he was in fact correct. You still (technically) didn't find out what caused the problem in the first place.It does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battle
I did the same on a 02 MTD mower and the ignition switch was the problemReplaced both the PTO and Ignition switch. They were cheap on Amazon. Not sure which one it was, but that did the trick.
Rivet: That's a mighty fine troubleshooting guide and sound advice. I'm a retired Navy Aircraft Electrician, and - though I don't have lawn-mower-specific training - I completed multiple formal electrical training schools, classes, and courses and gained 20+ years of experience, and I understand electrical circuits, and I know very well that there are no (reliable) shortcuts in making sure they are intact and functional, This is especially so when maintaining aircraft, and it makes sense to me to apply the same principles to 'ground-hugging-machinery'. So I applaud your response to Tim. And I say that if that arrogant, ungrateful clown was even half as savvy as he proclaims himself to be, he would at least know how to spell the word 'brake' (instead of 'break') when referring to the brake switch. My oldest son is a Mechanical Engineer by degree, working as an Aeronautical Engineer. But when he has lawnmower problems, he turns to someone who knows what they're doing with lawnmowers - usually me.Time for electrical troubleshooting. Here is the procedure I use, but others do it in other ways.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
You may be on to something - the PTO...If you're talking about the fuse just off of the starter solenoid, checked it. It's good
Any other ideas guys? Could it be the PTO engagement switch? I see some relays or something in there
Y'all were doing good, I was actually cheering you on, then you threw in a small dick comment. Oh yeah, pay attention to the correct spelling of the first word. All reflections on your 'intelligence'.Alright look ladies. I came to ya'll with an issue. After a week and a half of no help, I took my limited knowledge and went with what I knew. It's not a main power issue (you'd know that if you read my OP). There's 2 switches, and 2 relays that would cause the machine to shut off suddenly during operation if they failed. Switches are 10x more likely to fail. Both switches were old and ugly. Both switches were $15 on Amazon. Replaced, fixed, end of story. But for some reason that triggered all the sissies on this site and I caught all kinds off butthurt hell. I only mentioned my credentials when ya'll started attacking my intelligence. Ya'll sound like a bunch of fuckin Biden lovers
Just a thought,..but did you, perhaps, misspell the descriptive word for the OP?Rivet: That's a mighty fine troubleshooting guide and sound advice. I'm a retired Navy Aircraft Electrician, and - though I don't have lawn-mower-specific training - I completed multiple formal electrical training schools, classes, and courses and gained 20+ years of experience, and I understand electrical circuits, and I know very well that there are no (reliable) shortcuts in making sure they are intact and functional, This is especially so when maintaining aircraft, and it makes sense to me to apply the same principles to 'ground-hugging-machinery'. So I applaud your response to Tim. And I say that if that arrogant, ungrateful clown was even half as savvy as he proclaims himself to be, he would at least know how to spell the word 'brake' (instead of 'break') when referring to the brake switch. My oldest son is a Mechanical Engineer by degree, working as an Aeronautical Engineer. But when he has lawnmower problems, he turns to someone who knows what they're doing with lawnmowers - usually me.
Based on Tim's diatribe, I will never again think favorably of Allison Transmissions.
I noticed you came to a forum to ASK for help…..Ya'll talk alot of shit for people who offered no help what so ever. The issue is fixed with minimal time, effort, and $$$ Go strut your tiny balls elsewhere.
FYI....your little lawnmower knowledge is cute and all. But I'm an Engineer at Allison Transmission. I literally design the worlds most advanced propulsion systems. I know you think you're smart, but in comparison, you don't know shit
I agree, You should have replaced one at a time to determine what failed. Now you don't know which one was the problem for future issues. But it's working and time to mow.It does make me savvy numb nuts....and smarter than you obviously. I already expressed it wasn't a battery, fuse, or solenoid issue. I also ruled out the seat switch. That only leaves ignition and/or PTO switch. There are 10 leads between those two switches. I could be a super duper smart guy like you and spend hours tracing every one of those leads, or spend $30 for both on Amazon with next day delivery and have them swapped out in 10 mins. Time is money smart guy....I think I won that battle