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Hi there - I had started another thread that got me to this point, but I think the thread died. Was getting great help from ILENGINE and MowerPro2, but I haven't heard back. I'll re-post my last post from there here to try to fish for ideas: I have a Poulan Pro PR45Y22SB, B&S motor# 10G902 0260 B1. Where I'm at now -- I think I might have damaged the governor/slinger. Is this even possible? I replaced a governor link that got bent. It was VERY obvious that the old one was mis-shapen - too long, to be precise, and so was keeping the idle high when the governor was adjusted in the static position. Well, when I installed the new link, I readjusted the governor for good measure, and cranked her up to an awful racket and lots of sputtering. That's when I discovered that I wasn't careful and the throttle lever had jumped the stop before I adjusted the governor. I know - Duh. I shut her down, put the throttle lever back over the stop, and readjusted the static position, and now it runs, at a good idle speed, but it "sputters" for lack of a better word, and there is a faint noise going on, like a fishing reel. At first I described it as surging/hunting, but it's really more like a random sputter followed with a surge, almost like a misfire. It runs pretty smooth between sputters, tho, with no noise. Is it possible to damage the governor from misadjustment? Could this be a coincidence and something else actually be going on? I had read that excessive idle speed could crack the coil.... and it was running really high, like 4000rpm+ before I replaced the link. The bottom line is, it runs -- I was able to mow the yard with it, in fact, it ran better with the drive wheels engaged than at idle, and it ran better as it got warm. Any ideas before I just let it run itself into the ground? It's a ten year-old machine, but I'd like to keep her around for as long as possible. Thanks so much for any help you may be able to offer.

A while back, Briggs actually had camshafts with nylon gears, and those could give some funny noises. Keep running it as long as it runs, but pull the
top cover off for a peek first, make sure nothing is rubbing on top.

Fish said:

A while back, Briggs actually had camshafts with nylon gears, and those could give some funny noises. Keep running it as long as it runs, but pull the
top cover off for a peek first, make sure nothing is rubbing on top.

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Thanks - was trying to avoid opening it up, but might just do it, if only for fun. I think we may have mowed for the last time this season, so I certainly have the time. :laughing: Thanks!

Fish said:

A while back, Briggs actually had camshafts with nylon gears, and those could give some funny noises. Keep running it as long as it runs, but pull the
top cover off for a peek first, make sure nothing is rubbing on top.

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Wait - I think I misunderstood you - the linkage moves freely, but now when I move it, there is some weird resistance inside the engine when there wasn't any before I adjusted it with the throttle lever jumped. Oops, forgot to mention that. And that's what has me worried. Possible broken cogs on the cam/slinger?

If the cam teeth go ahead and shear off, you won't go any farther.....

I would start by readjusting the governor. Follow the directions in this manual. If the engine continues to surge, I would say that you have one of two problems. Damaged governor when you over revved the engine or you will have to look at the carb causing your surging problems.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/B&S Service Manuals/01_270962SingleCylinderLHead.pdf

Rivets said:

I would start by readjusting the governor. Follow the directions in this manual. If the engine continues to surge, I would say that you have one of two problems. Damaged governor when you over revved the engine or you will have to look at the carb causing your surging problems.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/B&S Service Manuals/01_270962SingleCylinderLHead.pdf

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Thanks for the reply - It's a brand new carburetor - that's how the link got bent. The whole thing was gunked up with rust from the gas tank, which I also replaced, and it was easier to just buy the assembly. And like I said, It's more like a misfire, or sputter, and it pretty much happens only at no-load idle. It actually mows ok, albeit a little sputtering... I took a peek at the governor link while it's idling, and it was moving/bouncing all over the place... Is that normal? I'm beginning to think the governor is damaged as you suggest. Is it dangerous to run it like that if so? It's my girlfriend's mower for her rental property and I don't want her to possibly get hurt by a flying chunk of crankcase... :laughing: Thanks again!

Not sure about the history behind it.

You bought a brand new carb, and then the old linkages were too long?

So it wasn't exactly the correct carb?

If the governor arm is bouncing around, that is an indication of internal governor problems. I my opinion, time to open it up.

Fish said:

Not sure about the history behind it.

You bought a brand new carb, and then the old linkages were too long?

So it wasn't exactly the correct carb?

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How we got here is kind of irrelevant, but here's what happened. The mower wasn't starting. The primer bulb was shot, and the tank and carb were full of rust. Since I needed a new tank, I decided to pay just a bit more for the tank/carb assembly, since I didn't feel like rebuilding the carb. I accidentally bent the governor link when I installed the new tank/carb, but didn't realize it until later, when I couldn't get the motor to idle down. Rather than try to guess the correct shape/length of the old link, I bought a new one (only $6). Mind you, at this point the engine ran GREAT, just too high... Well, after installing the new link, I was confident I was finished with the whole thing, but that's when I adjusted the governor incorrectly, because the throttle lever had jumped the stop when I tightened it. That's when I started having the surging/sputtering/misfiring thing. After realizing what I had done, and fixing the throttle lever and readjusting te governor, I still have the problem, even though it's much better. That's why I was wondering if running the motor with the governor way out of adjustment could have actually damaged the governor. But the carb is new and clean, so that's not the problem. All parts are genuine OEM, btw.

lilychef said:

How we got here is kind of irrelevant, but here's what happened. The mower wasn't starting. The primer bulb was shot, and the tank and carb were full of rust. Since I needed a new tank, I decided to pay just a bit more for the tank/carb assembly, since I didn't feel like rebuilding the carb. I accidentally bent the governor link when I installed the new tank/carb, but didn't realize it until later, when I couldn't get the motor to idle down. Rather than try to guess the correct shape/length of the old link, I bought a new one (only $6). Mind you, at this point the engine ran GREAT, just too high... Well, after installing the new link, I was confident I was finished with the whole thing, but that's when I adjusted the governor incorrectly, because the throttle lever had jumped the stop when I tightened it. That's when I started having the surging/sputtering/misfiring thing. After realizing what I had done, and fixing the throttle lever and readjusting te governor, I still have the problem, even though it's much better. That's why I was wondering if running the motor with the governor way out of adjustment could have actually damaged the governor. But the carb is new and clean, so that's not the problem. All parts are genuine OEM, btw.

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Run it!!! As long as it doesn't overspeed!!!! The sputtering and misfiring is probably old gas/crap still in the system.

lilychef said:

How we got here is kind of irrelevant, but here's what happened. The mower wasn't starting. The primer bulb was shot, and the tank and carb were full of rust. Since I needed a new tank, I decided to pay just a bit more for the tank/carb assembly, since I didn't feel like rebuilding the carb. I accidentally bent the governor link when I installed the new tank/carb, but didn't realize it until later, when I couldn't get the motor to idle down. Rather than try to guess the correct shape/length of the old link, I bought a new one (only $6). Mind you, at this point the engine ran GREAT, just too high... Well, after installing the new link, I was confident I was finished with the whole thing, but that's when I adjusted the governor incorrectly, because the throttle lever had jumped the stop when I tightened it. That's when I started having the surging/sputtering/misfiring thing. After realizing what I had done, and fixing the throttle lever and readjusting te governor, I still have the problem, even though it's much better. That's why I was wondering if running the motor with the governor way out of adjustment could have actually damaged the governor. But the carb is new and clean, so that's not the problem. All parts are genuine OEM, btw.

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Never irrelevant, all info is helpful.

Fish said:

Never irrelevant, all info is helpful.

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Thanks, Fish - yeah, you're right - I thought that was a stupid comment after I typed it... ha! But what about the funny noise? Kinda of like a squirrel cage noise... I think she may have at least another season in her. I'll try to mow with it and see what happens, I guess.

I wouldn't run it with out checking out the internal governor parts. Will cost you more in time than parts. If you open it up and find everything is fine, you'll just have to pay for a new gasket and oil. You will have the piece of mind that everything is in good shape. If you run it and the governor let's go, you may be replacing the entire engine. It's your choose which route to take.

Fish said:

Never irrelevant, all info is helpful.

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BTW - speaking here is the orginal thread -- http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/small...an-pro-pr45y22sb-throttle-governor-issue.html

Rivets said:

I wouldn't run it with out checking out the internal governor parts. Will cost you more in time than parts. If you open it up and find everything is fine, you'll just have to pay for a new gasket and oil. You will have the piece of mind that everything is in good shape. If you run it and the governor let's go, you may be replacing the entire engine. It's your choose which route to take.

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Thanks, Rivets - Would I just drain the oli and remove the sump to check it out? From below? Can I replace the governor if necessary without taking the entire engine apart? Honestly, it's a 10-yr old machine, and at this point it's taken such a beating that I wouldn't mind replacing the entire mower.... Next season, of course. Ha!

Not that hard. Remove the engine from the unit. Tip it on the top corner so you won't loose all the oil. Remove the sump cover and inspect the governor. The manual I posted should help. Before taking it apart, get a new sump gasket to have on hand. 10 year old Briggs is not that old and could last you many more years if taken care of.

Rivets said:

Not that hard. Remove the engine from the unit. Tip it on the top corner so you won't loose all the oil. Remove the sump cover and inspect the governor. The manual I posted should help. Before taking it apart, get a new sump gasket to have on hand. 10 year old Briggs is not that old and could last you many more years if taken care of.

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Thanks - I just might check it out - a new governor/slinger assy is only $8.... Where did you post said manual?

Check post #6.

Rivets said:

Check post #6.

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Shoot, sorry, thought that was from Fish... Thanks. So I can replace the slinger/governor if necessary without tearing the whole engine down?

Yes you can, I've done it a few times, not that hard.

Rivets said:

Yes you can, I've done it a few times, not that hard.

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Awesome - thanks so much - will report back with results. I'm a motorhead, but this is my first with a Briggs... Should be fun, and hell, the oil needs changin anyway! :laughing: Thanks again for the advice!

Rivets said:

Yes you can, I've done it a few times, not that hard.

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Quick question before I make the haul over to my girl's rental property, as I want to make sure I have everything I need. This mower is self-propelled. Is the belt drive pulley simply held down by the blade bolt, or is it pressed on? Will I need to bring my pulley puller? Don't want to get all the way over there and not be able to remove the sump cover, but don't want to bring it if not necessary... Thanks!

Should slide right off.

Rivets said:

Should slide right off.

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Yeah, man... Thanks, Thought I remembered that after I sharpened the blade last time! I'm stoked. :thumbsup: