CZ4818 Husqvarna

[darol]

Hullo from Australia, new to the forum. Need help.I have several Honda self drive push, a honda 2 cyl liquid cooled ride on a cox ride on a rover push, and

my problem Husqvarna 48 inch skid steer with a 18hp kawasaki. It starts, will idle indefinitely, will drive slowly but the second I drop the blades or shove the skid steer handles forward it stops. Will crank start up straightaway and do the same over again.
Done so far: turned the blades by hand ok; replaced the fuel lines and connectors, the fuel pump; the spark plugs and set the gaps, tested for blue spark Ok; checked the shut off solenoid for the carbie ok; cleaned and reset the flywheel gap for the spark to "business card specs"; put the resistance metre on the twin coils and they read the same, so while I suspected them breaking down under load maybe one should have at least had a different reading to be faulty. Kawasaki recommend buying their special tester for $160 but it is simply a volt/amp/ohms etc metre , basically the same as a $10 one.

I havent as yet found switches to isolate except for the seat. I have clean fuel and have changed the fuel filter and the air filter and I have clean sump oil.
. I still need to test for compression (1000 hours on the motor). I am going to renew the three current control switching plugs as they are cheap and maybe the control box ($50). However the 2 coils are $140 each in Australia and I am trying to avoid buying them. Any guidence/help will be greatlyappreciated. Regards Darol

 

[Rivets]

Sounds to me like you have a carb problem. I would remove the carb and have it cleaned throughly and rebuilt.

 

[darol]

Sounds to me like you have a carb problem. I would remove the carb and have it cleaned throughly and rebuilt.

Thanks Rivets. Will pull it off and see what compressed air and a new needle for the float valve will do.Im assuming there will be two jets one for idle and one for run plus an air screw. Will see tomorrow thanks again

 

[Rivets]

I would also get a can of spray carb cleaner to clean all the small passages.

 

[wjjones]

Hullo from Australia, new to the forum. Need help.I have several Honda self drive push, a honda 2 cyl liquid cooled ride on a cox ride on a rover push, and

my problem Husqvarna 48 inch skid steer with a 18hp kawasaki. It starts, will idle indefinitely, will drive slowly but the second I drop the blades or shove the skid steer handles forward it stops. Will crank start up straightaway and do the same over again.
Done so far: turned the blades by hand ok; replaced the fuel lines and connectors, the fuel pump; the spark plugs and set the gaps, tested for blue spark Ok; checked the shut off solenoid for the carbie ok; cleaned and reset the flywheel gap for the spark to "business card specs"; put the resistance metre on the twin coils and they read the same, so while I suspected them breaking down under load maybe one should have at least had a different reading to be faulty. Kawasaki recommend buying their special tester for $160 but it is simply a volt/amp/ohms etc metre , basically the same as a $10 one.

I havent as yet found switches to isolate except for the seat. I have clean fuel and have changed the fuel filter and the air filter and I have clean sump oil.
. I still need to test for compression (1000 hours on the motor). I am going to renew the three current control switching plugs as they are cheap and maybe the control box ($50). However the 2 coils are $140 each in Australia and I am trying to avoid buying them. Any guidence/help will be greatlyappreciated. Regards Darol

I have seen the park brake switch stick on them before it will run but as soon as you engage the blades it kills the engine.

 

[darol]

I would also get a can of spray carb cleaner to clean all the small passages.

Thanks will do this as well

 

[darol]

I have seen the park brake switch stick on them before it will run but as soon as you engage the blades it kills the engine.

Thanks for that. Im not sure if this monster has a park break as such. If you push the control leavers to the centre it stops but I will explore this option to see if there is a wire switch attached to the lever

 

[darol]

Hi all
Have now systematically bi-passed all 4 kill switches as it was impossible to isolate each one except the seat and the solenoid on the carbie. I suspect the in series wires that lead to one fail, all fail. Any way the motor kicks first start and the control arms send the machine forward and back and the blades go round. I now need to put it all together again. Incidently each of the 4 switches which I will renew are $33.30 each in Australia plus postage. So I ordered 3 from a supplier in the US of A with $44 postage and the three including postage came to $59. Are we getting ripped off in Aus or not..genuine Hus parts.thanks for all your help. I renewed the petrol pump, fuel lines, filter and cleaned the carb...changed air filter and topped up sump.Thank goodness I didnt buy the two main coils at $149 each as the symptoms at first appeared to be coil failure or carb. I now suspect the brake switch as suggested but will renew all.