Export thread

Need some help here. Mower is intermittently not starting. Would click when you turned the key. Turn it again and it may click or turn over. it was the original battery so I replaced it. No difference. Replaced solenoid and now the starter. No change. If you keep turning the key it may click or turn over or just turn a little bit. switches apparently are fine as it is turning over. But it seems to be turning slow. Many times the starter does not retract. It will do this even when crossing the solenoid terminals. When the key is turned to start the voltage will drop to 5 or 6 if it doesn't turn over and 8 or 9 if it does. Voltage is fine at the third wire on the solenoid. Any suggestions?

Remove the spark plugs then crank. If it cranks OK adjust the valve lash and try again with plugs installed.

http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769-01636/769-01636.pdf Check ground wires and straps making sure they are tight and secure, try moving them by hand to see if they are loose. Post engine manufacturer, model xxxxxx, type xxxx, trim xx if B&S engine.

Grounds are ok. First thing I checked. All clean, no corrosion, tight.

Pulled the plugs and it turns over every time. Put them back and it was back as before. So I will try the valve adjustment.

Repair manual that I found online says to set when piston is at 1/4 in. past tdc. How do I tell when it is at that point without being able to see the piston? Hope that isnt a silly question.

Mas1959 said:

Repair manual that I found online says to set when piston is at 1/4 in. past tdc. How do I tell when it is at that point without being able to see the piston? Hope that isnt a silly question.

Click to expand...

The piston is to be past TDC on the compression stroke ( both valves closed ). The 1/4" is not specific. A half inch, 3/4" or one inch beyond TDC works just as well. Briggs says to use a screwdriver inserted into the plug hole to the top of the piston. That's rather ignorant of Briggs because of the geometry of the plug hole bore and the cylinder bore on some engines damage can be done. Use a drink straw inserted to the top of the piston. Keeping a slight pressure on the straw you can tell when TDC is reached and continuing down past the 1/4" on the power stroke. That measurement is to be certain the compression release on the cam doesn't interfere with the valve lash.

That was it. Fired right up. Did not seem like it was a lot out. One cylinder was pretty close. The other was about three over on one valve and 8 on the other. I am assuming the 8 was probably the culprit.

Thankyou very much too those who replied. I relayed this info to my father-in-law who has the same mower and said he has had this happen a few times recently.