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Cub Cadet mower deck double pulley

#1

B

birddog2790

Has anyone on here rebuilt one of the double pulleys used by Cub Cadet, MTD, Ariens, etc.? I ordered a new pulley and rebuild kit and the bearing outer races are a slip fit in the pulley hub. I know that the rotating outer race should be a press fit but was wondering if it is not in this case because of the difficulty in taking it apart. I was thinking of using Loctite but would like others opinions first.


#2

R

Rivets

Please give us the tractor model and serial numbers, plus the part numbers for the parts you ordered. There are different setups and with those numbers we can tell you what needs to be done. Many have rebuilt these setups many times, we need to see your setup to advise you.


#3

B

birddog2790

Thanks Rivets, I was trying to make as broad a cast as possible (not confined to Cub Cadet) as all the decks that I looked at that are manufactured by MTD used the same basic design. Mine is a CC GT2544 (44" deck, mfg. date 2/2006, SN 14A2C7L710). Pulley 756-3115, bearings 741-1122, idler arm assy. 903-0857.


#4

R

Rivets

First, from the parts you listed I don’t think you are rebuilding a pulley, but more than likely you are rebuilding the spindle housing. This is not that hard, as the only replacement parts are the bearings, maybe a new spindle and the spacer inside the spindle housing. Before removing the bearing observe and record the depth of each bearing in the housing, so you know how deep they need to be installed on assembly. To rebuild, remove the spindle shaft, drive out the old bearings, remove the spacer and clean everything up good. Then while supporting the housing very well (so you don’t break it) and carefully drive in one bearing, I use a hammer and block of wood. Install the spacer, I pack the housing with grease first. Now install the other bearing, then the spindle shaft and pulley. Replacing the idler arm is simply tacking a few pictures first, then replace, using the pictures as reference.


#5

I

ILENGINE

Rivets said:
First, from the parts you listed I don’t think you are rebuilding a pulley, but more than likely you are rebuilding the spindle housing. This is not that hard, as the only replacement parts are the bearings, maybe a new spindle and the spacer inside the spindle housing. Before removing the bearing observe and record the depth of each bearing in the housing, so you know how deep they need to be installed on assembly. To rebuild, remove the spindle shaft, drive out the old bearings, remove the spacer and clean everything up good. Then while supporting the housing very well (so you don’t break it) and carefully drive in one bearing, I use a hammer and block of wood. Install the spacer, I pack the housing with grease first. Now install the other bearing, then the spindle shaft and pulley. Replacing the idler arm is simply tacking a few pictures first, then replace, using the pictures as reference.
Click to expand...
Here is the pulley he is rebuilding

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PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment

Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.
www.partstree.com www.partstree.com

I suspect that the pulley is been oversized due to pulley wear or even maybe heat from the damaged bearings. So may have to bite the bullet and replace the pulley so the bearings will fit properly, and it appears that a pulley doesn't come with the bearings.


#6

B

birddog2790

I have a new double pulley and repair kit. That is why a know that the bearing is a slip fit in the pulley bore. Is this detrimental in this application? In my other life I was a design engineer for IH and Case so I know this is not a proper situation for the outer (rotating) race of the bearing to be a slip fit but thought it might be intentional for this application since it would be difficult to drive the first bearing out of the housing for another repair, with the bushing in place between the bearings. Max depth of bearings in housing is controlled by internal snap rings.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

The question is did the OP order an OEM pulley or an aftermarket. Yes those 6203-Z5/8 bearings should be an interference fit. Check the pulley bearing hole to see if it is a tad under 40mm.

Loose fitting bearings will wear the mating part out over time due to slippage.


#8

B

birddog2790

StarTech said:
The question is did the OP order an OEM pulley or an aftermarket. Yes those 6203-Z5/8 bearings should be an interference fit. Check the pulley bearing hole to see if it is a tad under 40mm.

Loose fitting bearings will wear the mating part out over time due to slippage.
Click to expand...
Can't afford OEM anymore.


#9

StarTech

StarTech

Real
birddog2790 said:
Can't afford OEM anymore.
Click to expand...
Really depends on where you order the parts too. Https://www.cubcadet.com is wanting S138.48 + shc but https://www.appliancepartspros.com is only wanting $79.44 + shc for the same 756-3115 pulley. That is cheaper then even my normal distributor price.

Now a machine shop can knurl the bearing areas of the pulley but they are not cheap; although, that depends on the shop too.


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