I am baffeled by this... everything was working fine the last time I used it, about a week ago. I cleaned it up as ussual and put it in the shed. Today I got it out and it started fine, the engine runs fine, the electrical system seems to be working as it's an electric start and the head lights came on as ussual. But when I pulled the PTO switch out.... nothing. Pulled the fuel tank to get to the back of the control panel and try to find the fuse that the book says is there. Found some square In-line thing that says it's a double fuse, a 20A 12VDC and a 10A 12VDC. Have no idea IF that is a fuse, or how to tell if it is bad. And then, not sure if that is even the problem. Could be the switch in the control module itself. Basically, I have no idea where to start looking or how to test stuff to see what the problem is and I don't want to get into replacing things if they aren't the problem. I got this machine new in January 2010 and it is an "09" modle. Other than changing the blades and the deck belt, it's run like a champ and this is the first real problem I've run into. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Cub Cadet LTZ1050 PTO won't engage
- Thread starter PeDee
- Start date
EngineMan
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2012
- Threads
- 9
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- 2,275
First check the fuse's or circuit breaker's if fitted, with a meter or see you have 12+ in and out on them.
IMPORTANT: A valid diagnosis of many systems cannot be made without full system voltage applied.
3.Take a methodical approach to finding the problem. As a rule of thumb, start at one end of the circuit and work to the other.
4.The next step is to decide what method to use to troubleshoot the circuit. • If checking a safety circuit that grounds the magneto, use an Ohms meter to test for continuity.
• If checking a safety circuit that enables a starter motor or accessory, use a volt meter to confirm the presence
of power at each junction in the system.
• If a circuit does not work at all, look for a short or an open.
• If the circuit works slowly or intermittently, look for resistance by doing a voltage drop test.
NOTE: In all diagnosis, it is very important to understand the circuit that is being checked. The use of a schematic is recommended, even if a technician is thoroughly familiar with the system.
5.Testing for opens/shorts
NOTE: When checking circuits for continuity, disconnect the circuit at the nearest plug and use the metal terminals of the plug as a connection point for the test probes. DO NOT STAB THE WIRES.
NOTE: When checking circuits for voltage, back-probe the terminals nearest the point to be checked. DO NOT STAB THE WIRES
IMPORTANT: A valid diagnosis of many systems cannot be made without full system voltage applied.
3.Take a methodical approach to finding the problem. As a rule of thumb, start at one end of the circuit and work to the other.
4.The next step is to decide what method to use to troubleshoot the circuit. • If checking a safety circuit that grounds the magneto, use an Ohms meter to test for continuity.
• If checking a safety circuit that enables a starter motor or accessory, use a volt meter to confirm the presence
of power at each junction in the system.
• If a circuit does not work at all, look for a short or an open.
• If the circuit works slowly or intermittently, look for resistance by doing a voltage drop test.
NOTE: In all diagnosis, it is very important to understand the circuit that is being checked. The use of a schematic is recommended, even if a technician is thoroughly familiar with the system.
5.Testing for opens/shorts
NOTE: When checking circuits for continuity, disconnect the circuit at the nearest plug and use the metal terminals of the plug as a connection point for the test probes. DO NOT STAB THE WIRES.
NOTE: When checking circuits for voltage, back-probe the terminals nearest the point to be checked. DO NOT STAB THE WIRES
Thanks for the in-put! I had no idea where to even start. Did some wire tracing and started checking things from the PTO knob on the dash to the clutch. Found a connection where the clutch plugged into the power and it looked pretty dirty so I blew it out and cleaned it, then checked for power to it with a 12 volt tester. Yay! there was power to that point so I blew out the clutch plates with an air hose and tested the connection to the clutch.... had power there so decided there wasn't anything to loose by starting the mower and engaging the PTO. It worked!!! So there was obviously a dirt or connection problem. Again, thank you for your in-put. I'm no mechanic and had no idea where to start. So glad I didn't have to replace the clutch, they want $375.00 for one of those... YIKES! 