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I have a cub cadet hds 2155. Model 13a-244g100 s/n 379973. The engine will not crank consistently. I hear it click, but will not crank. Sometimes it will crank and starts fine, but most of the time it will just click. It sounds like the starter is stuck.

I have replaced the battery and battery cables.

Hard to say, but follow the red cable from the battery to the solenoid, make sure all of your connections are tight, as well as on the battery and where it bolts to the frame.

Thanks for the suggestion.

The red wire is tight, because I tightened it when I replaced the red wire from the battery. I read on another site that said to remove the solenoid to ensure it is not corroded between it and the mounting block.

What would happen if the starter or solenoid were bad? Would I still get the clicking noise?

I also read where there is a junction box for the lights that may cause something similar. I may try by-passing the junction box and see if that takes care of it, because the lights were missing when I got the mower anyhow.

I have also disconnected the seat kill switch, so I know it is not the problem. Unless there is someway the switch is closing on its own without one of the wires attached...which I doubt. I also think that if a kill switch was bad, then I would not get the clicking.

First, find out what is clicking. Just touch the solenoid while turning the key to see if that is the source of the "click"...

Is this just one click when you turn the key, or several clicks??????

Just one click.

I just read the following about solenoids on another site, so my guess is that the solenoid is bad.

Bad solenoids usually fail to do one of two things. They either click but don't complete the circuit (burnt contacts) or nothing happens (open circuit).

MTJ8617 said:

I just read the following about solenoids on another site, so my guess is that the solenoid is bad.

Bad solenoids usually fail to do one of two things. They either click but don't complete the circuit (burnt contacts) or nothing happens (open circuit).

Click to expand...

Yeah, that is why I was curious about the location of the "click".

If that is not the source of the click, then who could say? Electrical problems can be nightmares, so you don't want to just replacing things.

If your absolutely sure that all connections are clean and tight. Then arc the solenoid but USE EXTREME CAUTION- SPARKS & GAS= FIRE. If nothing happens then battery undercharged or starter is bad.

I replaced the solenoid and finally got the engine to crank, but that click was still there. I had to turn the key a few times to get it to crank, but it won't start. Doesn't seem to be getting any spark. I checked the spark plug and various connections, and all look good.

Could it be the starter with the clicking noise and the coil for the no spark issue? Or should I continue to look for wire issues?

Do you have a multimeter? What are the engine #'s?
Generally a click at the solenoid is from low voltage, alot of solenoids are replaced because people think they are bad.

I do have a multimeter and all I can find is the model of the mower, which is Model 13a-244g100 s/n 379973.

On the solenoid is there one small wire or two small wires connected to the terminal tabs?

One blue wire that to a plug with several other wires that is attached to the engine.

Okay, test starter stud coming from battery should be 12+ volts. Disconnect the blue wire and place positive probe(Volts dc on multimeter) to it and negative probe to good ground while trying to normally start mower. What voltages do you get? I would test this a few times.

With the positive connected to the terminal on the starter I get 0 volts. I get 12.85 volts with the positive on the blue wire.

I mistyped that, should have been from solenoid stud(battery side) 12+V. Sorry for the confusion.
Does the starter appear to be engaging and disengaging properly, not hanging up(bendix) when switched off?

Other than the clicking noise when it doesn't start, yes it seems to be engaging and disengaging. I really think there is a short some place.

Should there be continuity between the solenoid positive to the ground?

When it clicks, do you still have 12+V on the blue wire? If you do then do you have 12+V at the starter?
Which side battery or starter?

I get about 6.6 volts on the blue wire when it just clicks. What do you mean by battery side or starter side? This was measured on the terminal where the blue wire connects to on the starter/solenoid.

Battery side or starter side was to your question. You have found the problem with the 6.6V on the blue wire. This is also most likely the reason you had no spark. I would first check the wiring for any damaged/frayed/burnt wiring and also make sure all grounds are tight. If there doesn't appear to be any problems there then check the ignition switch and safety switches. You can search youtube videos for testing these(easier to understand) and maybe someone can provide a wiring diagram to help. I hate intermittent problems because they can be difficult to diagnose.

Thank you for your help! I have looked at the wiring and don't see anything obvious, other than the back of the ignition switch being a greasy black color. It there a good way to test the switch?

This may help
How to test lawn mower key switch - YouTube

I think my brake switch is bad. Does anyone have the instructions for removing the brake switch? It is located inside the access panel under the steering wheel but there is very limited space and I can't figure out how to get it out.

I finally got around to removing the brake switch, and it tested good. What should I try next? I also tried to start it again and it still clicks periodically and when it does cranks it acts like it is not getting any spark. Could it be the ignition switch?