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Ok, so in 2018 I purchased a Cub Cadet LT42 XT1, Enduro Series. I used it a few times and realized it backfired every time I tried to kill the engine...I thought it would work its self out and I drove it that way for a couple of months. Then It began to run a bit like it had a little water in the fuel. I took it to the local Mower Repair Shop and they determined that the fuel solenoid was not working correctly but they put a cutoff valve on the fuel line on the left side of the engine. (You could reach it from the driver seat).. They told me to turn the cutoff off whenever I was done using the mower. I did this for years but it made no difference, it still backfired almost all the time...I now guess I was suppose to let absolutely "all" the fuel run out of the line prior to turning the key off...and that would take like several minutes..Geeze...
Over the years I talked to half a dozen folks about the backfire issue...I walked away with "they all do that" as the common answer, or "don't worry about it".
Last year, I finally got fed up with it and began my own investigation into the problem....I pulled the solenoid off the bottom the fuel bowl and guess what..?...the plunger on the top end of the solenoid had been removed..looked like it was clipped off with a pair of wire cutters.. I decided to replace the solenoid with a new one...
You can find a bunch of them for sale on eBay and other sites for $10 to $15..but they are not the same attachment mount diameter. They all have a bigger diameter "screw in" than the Cub Cadet takes. I even bought two new $25 eBay carbs that said they were for, and looked like, a solenoid like Cub Cadet, but they were not the same and the "carbs" were just not the same as mine so no help here..Years go by...Ok, so now another season goes by and I decided to go ahead and buy a new $90. solenoid from CUB CADET.,,(that's a lot of $ for a simple little solenoid)..but I bought one and put it on in 5 minutes....ran the engine and killed it several times and NO BACKFIRES...!!!!! The stupid stock solenoid probably NEVER worked right and was probably mutilated when I took it to the Mower Repair Shop..
If this is a universal problem, Cut Cadet needs to address it....

First the Idiot DIYers think snipping off the pin is the right way to resolve a sticky solenoid which is the usual problem. It is hacking job done to keep from buying a new carburetor if the solenoid actually failed.

And it is not if they just had repaired it right to start with.

But please do me a favor and post the solenoid PN and which engine it is used on. I am coming up with a 4X90HU engine but yours my be a different engine.

Sorry, but you are wrong in blaming Cub Cadet for this problem. You should be blaming your repair shop, as this problem is simple to diagnose and repair. Putting in a fuel shutoff valve is a sign of a DIY guy who is in over his head. Your should have realized that when it didn’t fix the problem. I’m guessing that you purchased the unit used and the previous owner is as dumb as your mechanic and cut the end off the solenoid.

Rivets said:

Sorry, but you are wrong in blaming Cub Cadet for this problem. You should be blaming your repair shop, as this problem is simple to diagnose and repair. Putting in a fuel shutoff valve is a sign of a DIY guy who is in over his head. Your should have realized that when it didn’t fix the problem. I’m guessing that you purchased the unit used and the previous owner is as dumb as your mechanic and cut the end off the solenoid.

Click to expand...

Rivets this is the problem. And MTD/CUB isn't helping the problem by not providing the parts other complete carburetor assys on the newer engines or at the solenoid or other carb parts are listed as available.

With OEM switching over to complete assys instead providing the parts are actually needed is not helping either. This mainly because they these so cheap it isn't funny when compare to what they sell them for. Now the OP may have a 4P90HU which I do find a fuel solenoid for.

And OP is right that the price for solenoid is ridiculous considering the complete carb is nearly as cheap.

I understand what you are saying Star, but I don’t believe for a second the the unit came with a solenoid which had a clipped plunger. As you stated some idiot DIY guy did that. Second, the mechanic who installed the shutoff valve is also an idiot, because he shouldn’t have known to check the solenoid. I’ve probably got 2 dozen different solenoids laying around and have installed them on carbs where a carb is cheaper than replacing the solenoid. Just let the customer know what I did and why, they never have a problem.

I bought the LT42 brand new, in the crate from Tractor Supply. (Uncrated it myself..to two hours...) the solenoid has No. 18R etched on the base...I guess thats the PN..? None of the paperwork gives me any better info.. The engine is a KS540-3011, with Nikki Carb, 18hp. I am reasonably certain that the repair shop did the plunger clipping...I just tried the clipped solenoid and it still functions fine...My guess, now, is that the bowl may had a bit of debris and just needed to be drained....but the repair guy, as you said, was "unknowledgeable".. I still would like to find an extra, replacement solenoid (at a fair price) to have as a spare....

Mower Serial No 4809305173

I’m fairly sure that the Kohler part number for that Nikki carb is 22-757-04. Star, would you double check this for me? Before you go purchasing any parts I would confront that mechanic about his repair. He should be the person paying for the repairs. I’m not sure he will fess up to his actions, but being a little hard headed and letting him know what you could do for his reputation might make him think about it. If he does Kohler authorized repairs I would ask him if you need to contact Kohler with your complaint. I know Kohler will not be happy to hear from you. Worst that can happen is you get the door slapped in your face.

Finding one the Nikki could be a problem depending on the clearance under the carb. I think the Briggs 596038 will work. It should be threaded M8-1.00.

Here is an aftermarket one you could try. It has a metal head instead of the hard plastic.

And here is the Briggs 596038.