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Hello,

I guess I will start from the top. I mowed part of the lawn on Monday, the tractor worked fine. Then on Thursday I went out to start the mowed and it started but then died after 30 seconds of running. Turned the key and it tried to kick over but didn't. When I looked at the battery I noticed that the Positive terminal was really badly corroded. I first used baking soda to clean the terminal then used a battery spray clearer that I purchased at Lowes. When the battery was cleaned I noticed that the metal bolt and nut was badly corroded. It looked like the bolt and nut were corroding away so bad that I could not even get the nut off. I was forced to bust off the lead on the battery to disconnect it.

I wanted to see if it was the corrosion that was the problem so I further cleaned the wires and used jumper cables to reattach the battery (clamped the jumper cable to what was left of the top terminal to the tractor wires). It took two turns of the key but the tractor fired right up and sounded perfect.

To be safe I bought and replaced the new battery and also a new ring end for the positive wire because even though it was clean it looked beat up.

When I went to turn the key the engine did nothing. Something new was wrong now, None of the lights or engine timer worked. When I turned the key you could hear the starter spin but nothing on the engine. almost like there is no load on the starter.

I am lost, Please Help!!!

I have been searching the internet and here is some more stuff that might help.

I used a multimeter to test the solenoid and it looks like a 3 wire solenoid. the small wire is getting 12 volts and from what I can find all the fuses are good. I tried to jump the tractors solenoid with a screw driver and got nothing.

Thanks for any help you might have with my problem. I am wondering if maybe I shorted out something when I changed the battery? How can I check?

Try this troubleshooting procedure, it may help you.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

Rivets,

Thanks for the help. I was able to do almost everything that was listed. I know the very basics about electricity. I also have some pictures.

First I guess I will show the pictures of the battery and starter. Sorry but I have a lot of pictures so you can see everything.


Picture of battery and how it sits in the tractor


Picture of battery wires


Picture of starter and solenoid


Picture of solenoid wires


Another picture of starter and solenoid also ground wire to engine


Picture of tractor dash.

Done with the pictures.

First I checked the fuses. They were all complete and looked good and I also check the continuity of them with a multimeter. I then checked the battery connections and they looked good and tight. The battery was reading 12.55 volts when I started.

Second I checked the power from the battery to the large red wired terminal of the solenoid. when I tested it it was at 12.5 volts

Third I checked the small wire to the solenoid. The solenoid on the tractor is a 3 wire and is attached to the starter. When I turned the key I was getting 10.44 volts. I took the wire off and cleaned the bolt and connector and got the same when I tested it again. I tested it multiple times and it kept giving around the same reading. 10.35 -10.55. I also unplugged the wiring harness located right above the solenoid and blew both ends out. You can see the wiring harness in pictures located right above the solenoid.

Fourth, I checked the condition of this large red bolt that is connected directly to the battery. It looked good, no corrosion. When I tested the bolt it gave me a reading of 11.5 volts. I checked to see what the battery was reading and it was only giving me a reading of 12.37 volts, I guess from cranking it so many times.

Fifth, I did not understand this one. I have no other wires going to the starter so I could not test the power going directly to the starter.

Sixth, Checking the ground. I may have done this wrong so please tell me if I did this wrong. I tested the continuity of the ground wire. Put my multimeter on the Continuity setting and touched the ground wire that connects to the battery and then touched the wire that attaches to the engine. it beeped. I also touched the engine itself and a ton of other parts and bolts. They all beeped. Should I have unconnected the battery?

I also wanted to add that when you turn the key none of the lights or gauges work. They did work before this problem. Now I did take out the light bulbs and did all these tests with the light bulbs out. They were blown and I just took them out to take with me and get new ones at the store.

Thanks again for your help I really do appreciate it.

First I have to apologize for giving you instruction for a remote mounted solenoid, not a starter mounted one. Here are some changes with your unit. First, please put a connector on the small cable attached to the battery, we want to make sure that we have a good connections. That wire goes to the ignition switch, providing the power. When you turn the key to the start position the small wire should have 12 volts, assuming all safety switches are working. If you don't get 12 volts you are going to have to check the voltage at the key switch first, then power going out the switch.

This website has a wiring diagram for a 2542, which should be almost exactly the same as your 2544. As you will notice there are a variety of safety switches and points where you can and need to check for voltage. You may just have a safety switch that is not engaged or bad. This type of troubleshooting will drive most of us mad, you must take it slow and have patience. Some connects you will have to pull the plug, while others you can come in from the back. Good luck and keep us posted. There are a couple of us electrical guys watching to see thread and will chime in when they have suggestions.

Forgot the website, sorry.

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