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I've had several different Craftsman riding lawnmowers and every one of them has had (I now have two - a '98 and a 2003) problems with starting. I have to sit there and "bump" the ignition repeatedly until finally it spins enough to start. Seems to me the starters are not powerful enough. I have a new battery on one of my current mowers and a 2 month old one on the other. Most of the time, I have to put my big charger on them and let it charge for a time and then even put the charger on "Starting" for it to start - and IT STILL does the "Bump" thing. Meaning, I have to continually hit the starter and listen to it engage but not spin until it finally does spin- They both start easily when this happens but the starter problem is consistent - and as I said, this is just two of several Craftsman mowerw I've had.
Any suggestions out there??
Thanks
Samsayger

Not big on Craftsman mowers but I would check/clean all wires to starter and battery including ground. I would also check the compression release valve and make sure its operating properly.

Because you don't give us any engine model numbers, make, age, hours, we can only give you very general info. From what you are telling us, I would suggest two things to do. First make sure that the ground between the starter and engine block is very clean and tight. Second, I would check the valve clearance.

actually the starters on these are not likely to go out easy,but the starter sileniod will its cheap and easy to fix, also if you go to sears its about 75$ but if you go to your local lawn and small engine store you can get on for just over 12$ dollars follow the red wire from your starter to the sileniod which sould be mounted on the side wall two nut and two plugs to remove.

If the starter is trying to turn means that the solenoid is working properly, no need to replace.

well then go grt a starter for 170$ and let me know how that works out clearly that the starter is turning over then if that does not work go get the selinoid for 12$ and hopefully things will be ok for you I just thought since i am a machine repairman and certified with automobiles that i might be able to help no books needed.

thomas boyd said:

well then go grt a starter for 170$ and let me know how that works out clearly that the starter is turning over then if that does not work go get the selinoid for 12$ and hopefully things will be ok for you I just thought since i am a machine repairman and certified with automobiles that i might be able to help no books needed.

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I agree! It's turning, sounds like the start not the problem!

Why get a starter or solenoid, the starter kicks in and engages the flywheel. The BUMP he is talking about is the engine reaching the compression stroke and not being able to get passed it. As I said earlier, check the valve clearance. If they are not set correctly, the compression release can not work properly, causing the piston to stop. I get one of these about once every two weeks, but then again I'm just a retired old fart who has forgotten more than I know.

Rivets said:

Why get a starter or solenoid, the starter kicks in and engages the flywheel. The BUMP he is talking about is the engine reaching the compression stroke and not being able to get passed it. As I said earlier, check the valve clearance. If they are not set correctly, the compression release can not work properly, causing the piston to stop. I get one of these about once every two weeks, but then again I'm just a retired old fart who has forgotten more than I know.

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Hey, all you guys are great!! Wish we could get together and have coffee sometimes - I think all you folks had good suggestions but it looks like the "valve clearance" may be my problem. Now, if I only KNEW HOW TO FIX IT, that would be great!! Is this procedure outlined in the manual which came with the thing by any chance? I've gotten so LD in my old age, I cannot read those things and come out with any sense at all!
This Ol' Misippy Boy thanks y'all very much.
Sam Sayger
Hernando, MS

As I said in post #3 give us the engine model numbers. With them I should be able to get you a service manual. With that and the u-tube videos you should be able to adjust them. Without them I can do nothing but guess.

SamSayger said:

Hey, all you guys are great!! Wish we could get together and have coffee sometimes - I think all you folks had good suggestions but it looks like the "valve clearance" may be my problem. Now, if I only KNEW HOW TO FIX IT, that would be great!! Is this procedure outlined in the manual which came with the thing by any chance? I've gotten so LD in my old age, I cannot read those things and come out with any sense at all!
This Ol' Misippy Boy thanks y'all very much.
Sam Sayger
Hernando, MS

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A couple of things you might want to check. I work on electric forklifts for a living, and you need to check and see how much of a voltage drop you get on the battery while you are cranking it. It is a 12vt battery, and should not drop below around 10 vts. Also I have changed a ton of relays that close, but will have contacts burned internally and not let full load go through. Get meter, go from battery negative to battery postive, and try to start it. You'll have to use a couple jumper wires, as the seat will need to be down. The go from battery negative to the starter relay contact. The one that has the wire to the starter, and try to start it again. That will check out both items, (starter & relay) for voltage drop. Let us know what reading you are getting.

If both of them check out OK, it is probably the valves. The voltages are just quicker, and easier to check. I live just north of you, and will get with you if need be.

Engine model numbers for Craftsman starter problems. Actually, I have two Craftsman

Rivets said:

As I said in post #3 give us the engine model numbers. With them I should be able to get you a service manual. With that and the u-tube videos you should be able to adjust them. Without them I can do nothing but guess.

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My newest Craftsman mower is a 2006 I believe (maybe newer??) and as I said, I have two of them - one, a few years older but both run perfectly - when they start. The newer motor's MN is: Family: 5BsXs.7242VF 276024. The older one's motor model no. is: Family: 5BSXS5012VP. Both have the identical problem. Today, I charged (battery tests good!) it fully and it refused to start until I left the charger on in the "Start" position and just kept banging away. Finally it started and ran perfectly (almost??). Haven't tried the older one lately but as I said, it is the same way. BTW, I had ANOTHER Craftsman for several years before these two and it had the SAME problem as these two. I was about to decide that it must be the fault of an inadequate starter??
Thanks for your willingness to help me.
Sam Sayger
Hernando, MS

Sorry to say, those are not the model numbers. On the the engine you will find three sets of numbers, model, type and code. They are theones I need.

Rivets said:

As I said in post #3 give us the engine model numbers. With them I should be able to get you a service manual. With that and the u-tube videos you should be able to adjust them. Without them I can do nothing but guess.

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I searched all over those engines and could find no M# - but the M# of the newer mower of the two is 917.275684. Today, (after finally getting it to start and mow yesterday) I got on the mower and it kicked right off and mowed beautifully. Started on the first try.

The model number on the older mower is 917.272672 - and as I said, it has the exact same problem as the newer one. It sure sounds as tho there is too much compression for the starter to allow it to even spin one time (both mowers) because if it ever makes even one cycle, it will spin and start.

I hope the mower model numbers are sufficient for what you need.
Thanks tons for all your help.
Sam Sayger
Hernando, MS

Those numbers are model numbers for the tractors and not the engine. If you cannot find engine numbers on a Briggs and Stratton engine, I don't know if you can adjust the valves. That being said I have reservations giving you a service manual for you engines. Maybe you will be able to accomplish what you want and get you engine running. Here is the manual, but with that I am out of this one, maybe some one else can help.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/B&S Service Manuals/01_270962SingleCylinderLHead.pdf

SamSayger said:

I searched all over those engines and could find no M# - but the M# of the newer mower of the two is 917.275684. Today, (after finally getting it to start and mow yesterday) I got on the mower and it kicked right off and mowed beautifully. Started on the first try.

The model number on the older mower is 917.272672 - and as I said, it has the exact same problem as the newer one. It sure sounds as tho there is too much compression for the starter to allow it to even spin one time (both mowers) because if it ever makes even one cycle, it will spin and start.

I hope the mower model numbers are sufficient for what you need.
Thanks tons for all your help.
Sam Sayger
Hernando, MS

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If a Briggs engine the model number should be stamped into the valve cover, if somebody has had it off and put it on upside down could be on the bottom. The other location maybe a tag on the blower housing itself which says model, type, code, or stamped into the blower housing.

yeah just dont start going into your motor and ajusting thing and making bigger probems for your self start with the easy stuff first now my self proclamed retareded guys going to have you start ajusting your valves and end up blowing your motor if you dont do it right

ILENGINE said:

If a Briggs engine the model number should be stamped into the valve cover, if somebody has had it off and put it on upside down could be on the bottom. The other location maybe a tag on the blower housing itself which says model, type, code, or stamped into the blower housing.

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I probably overlooked a "stamp" as I was looking for the "tag" for sure. I don't see how I could've missed a tag tho - but possibly a "stamp". I'll have a grandson have a look tomorrow.
Thanks Tons.
Sam