Hello, I'm new here and have been able to diagnose issues here and there but now I'm stuck. I have a Craftsman LT3000 model # 917.276827 and the starter fried a couple weeks ago. I replaced it and it still didn't start till I jumped it. I replaced the battery and still nothing. So I went to the starter solenoid and checked it with a test light. Power on the B side but nothing on the M side. So I arched the 2 terminals together and it began to spin the starter. But, that let to 3 problems now. The starter ring in one spot of the flywheel is stripped and so is the ring on the starter itself. Not a huge deal, I'll just replace them. I replaced the solenoid and it still won't do anything. So before I screw anything else up...why can't I get her to start? I turn the key and nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Well its probably a saftey switch, maby for the blade engagment, seat or the ingition is bad. You might be able to jump the seat swich and blade engageds swich. I wouldent be able to tell you for shure without looking at a wireing diagram
Give this a try. LawnRanger and I have put this together to help rule out major components.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I have power going to the solenoid (brand new). After that, none of the other terminals have anything at all and neither does the starter when turning the key. Thats brake/clutch on, sitting on the seat and turning the key.
That means you have done steps 1&2 and step 3 is a no go right? You now how to check to see if you have power at the switch. On the large solenoid with power, you should have a small red wire attached. Follow that small red wire from the solenoid to the switch and test to see if you have power at the switch.
THANK YOU! I feel very stupid now. I traced the wire back a fuse which was blown. There was so much crap caked up around the fuse holder i didn't even know it was there. The starter spins now. Thanks again for saving me tons of money! I'm going to take a look at my neighbors mower later. It's only about 4 years old. A Cub Cadet 46" and if you put the throttle over half way the belt for the blades consistently pops off. I'll get a model # and post it on here. Thanks again so much!
I originally had a dead battery. So I jumped it for a long period of time and also kept the key turned for a while. i guess it protected something else from me frying it. The starter is slightly stripped at the top and the ring key on the fly wheel is missing some teeth on one spot. I have to replace the gear and the ring key. But, she just fired right up with no problem.
#9
EngineMan
Ok that's fine, just wanted to why, and yes replace the ring when you can. goodluck and all the best.:thumbsup:
I've read your troubleshooting instructions with interest. I have the same issue with teh same mower: Battery = ok, Power at incoming termional of solenoid, no power at outgoing terminal which leads to the starter. My fuse is fine - I've checked it with a multimeter. Could you let me know if you would be prepared to continue the troubleshooting process from where you left off? (i.e from " Follow that small red wire from the solenoid to the switch and test to see if you have power at the switch".) Your help will be most appreciated as I've been scratchingh my head for days trying to figure out what the probelm is.
