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Craftsman 917 272246 trans

#1

steelroy

steelroy

There's about a 6" diameter wet spot under the trans since the last cut, about a week ago. Now it won't engage forward or reverse. I'd heard that these were a sealed system and no way to add fluid? If anyone has already figured this out I'd appreciate your process. Otherwise I'll make a way to get fluid in there! :laughing:
Thanks guys...:thumbsup:


#2

Fish

Fish

With a leak that bad, I would say that the trans is cracked somewhere.

The craftsman site doesn't say what brand the trans is, but there should be a tag with a model number on it somewhere. Look
for that, and a big crack.

Actually, the sears site refers to it as the engine on the parts list, so they aren't much help.


#3

Col F

Col F

I looked up your Sears model number, and it appears that the transaxle is a Hydro-Gear Model 323-0510, which I believe is no longer in production.

The substitute part number appears to be 184070, which appears to be a Hydro-Gear Model 336-0510 (which may also be discontinued from what I'm seeing on the web)...

A current model is a 310-0510, but I have no idea if it is a direct replacement, or not..


This is the Service/Support number for Hydro-Gear: Phone: 1-877-728-7410 You don't get to the company at that number, it automatically routes you to the nearest Distributor.

Here is the link to the web page for locating service/dealers: Hydro-Gear - Service - Hydrostatic Drives Transmissions and Transaxles


Here is the link to Sears site for your tractor: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Riding-mower-tractor-Parts/Model-917272246/0247/1509200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=917272246

And this is the parts diagram for your transaxle: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Riding-mower-tractor-Parts/Model-917272246/0247/1509200/P0103294/00001?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=917272246

You can probably find any parts or complete replacement transaxles on the web, and almost always cheaper than Sears.

Good luck... let us know how this resolves...

P.S. Looks like some nice gear in your avatar... Marshall's full stacks, SG, LP... do I even see a Rick in there?


#4

steelroy

steelroy

Thanks for the wealth of info, Col F, you must be a guitar player!! ;)
That line up consists of: Epi LP SG Custom, Washburn HB35, Ric 360-12, 60th Anni Strat, and a Agile AL3000 Spalted top.
There are 10 more!! :cool: (couldn't get the pics to load?) I got GAS man....!! :thumbsup:


#5

Col F

Col F

GAS is OK until you run out of room, or money (or your wife loses her sense of humor)! :cool:


#6

steelroy

steelroy

LOL! There are advantages to being single!! :thumbsup: I managed to create an album, "Toyz In The Attic". And yes, that's a 120 cubic inch Ultima V-Twin sitting there. I posted this pic on a guitar forum and a guy replies with: "awesome guitar stand!". Why yes, yes it is! :cool:

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#7

Col F

Col F

That guitar stand is wild.. I have never seen anything comparable. Very nice!

As regards your transaxle... They are not sealed. There is a fill plug located on the top. Access can often be difficult. Sometimes it is accessible from above, after removal of the battery tray. However, your problem is not that of refilling the oil; you need to determine where it is leaking from. I presume that you want to refill the oil and determine that it is still operating. If it was running well before the leak, it can easily be insufficient remaining oil for operation. The current version holds 79 oz of 20w50. Hopefully you can access the plug from above, or pump oil in with a flexible pump.

It could be leaking from the joint of the two halves of the transmission case, which is sealed with a liquid gasket (similar to RTV sealant). You may have impacted the bottom of the case and caused a leak. You may have a leaking axle seal or input shaft seal or brake seal. Or, it may be casting porosity, wherein a casting flaw finally opens a sufficient crevice from which the oil can leak (which is not uncommon with aluminum castings, and is repairable at home).

You need to carefully inspect, and determine the source/location of your leak. If it needs to be drained, it will need to be removed and inverted over a bucket.

Here is a link to the Service Manual for the current 310-0510 unit: http://www.hydro-gear.com/Main/docs/service-repair-manuals/310-0510.pdf

There is a label with full model/serial/production information attached to the rear of the housing. Get the data from the label and call that 800 number if you need to locate replacement seals or other parts. If the case is leaking, J-B weld will do it, once the repair area is clean, dry and abraded with a file to allow the liquid metal compound to bond (to "key-in").

And, keep 'em all on 10! (from the Marshall's I'm guessing Rock).


#8

steelroy

steelroy

Hey Col F! No that's not a "guitar stand"! It's a real motor that I just used as a backdrop for the guitar pic!! I decided it would be cool to angle the guitars @ a 45 to complete the "illusion"! :thumbsup:
In regards to the Marshall's, I'm afraid '10' just won't cut it. They all go HERE:ry70.jpg :laughing: Aerosmith to ZZTop! :cool:

Thanks again for the info. If there's a fill plug, I'll find it. It's been a slow leak that I just lost track of until the larger leak appeared the other day and subsequently was the last bit to maintain the minimum amount of fluid level.


#9

Col F

Col F

The service manual (linked pdf) shows the location of the fill port on top.

Fix the leak.

Purge the transmission of air after refilling.

Re-check and adjust oil level after purging.

Hopefully, good to go.


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