Export thread

Courage 26 start issue.

#1

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

Kohler Courage 26 SV735s
Cub SLTX1054.
725cc twin OHV.
I replaced carburetor and fuel solenoid, starter, starter solenoid. New fuel, oil and air filters, fuel pump.
I adjusted the valves per spec.
Replaced spark plugs. New battery.
I get strong crank and turn over. But it just will not start. When turning the key, the exhaust pops after a second, like it wants to start
Any suggestions on what to check? And yes there’s plenty of oil and fuel is getting to the carb. I fiddled with the choke, just to make sure it wasn’t any rod damage or anything. But no difference.


#2

V

VegetiveSteam

When did it last run correctly? Did you notice anything unusual the last time it was shut down? What is compression?


#3

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

Last ran correctly before the starter began grinding. Ever since, it’s been really finicky and now it won’t start.
Last time I shut it down, I didn’t notice anything odd. It feels like the engine isn’t getting enough air or gas or something.
Adjusted valves to .05
But maybe I should take another look? It feels like it’s something else though because the crank is nice and strong.


#4

V

VegetiveSteam

If you've got good spark and are getting fuel to the spark plugs I'd probably be thinking a timing issue. Either ignition or valve.

If the ignition timing if off that would mean the flywheel key is probably sheared or partially sheared. To know for sure the flywheel will need to be removed. I always tell techs that they need to hold the key in their hand and examine it. Most of the time they just take the flywheel bolt off and look down and think it's fine but you can't tell for sure unless you remove the flywheel.

If it's out of valve time that would mean the gear on the crankshaft has moved and the valves aren't opening and closing at the correct time. The gear is pressed on the crankshaft and it's rare but once in a while they will turn slightly on the crankshaft especially if the engine has ever been run hot. That is a fairly easy thing to check by removing one rocker cover and checking for valve overlap.

And of course it might not be either of these. I'd still be curious about compression.


#5

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

This is a big help regardless.
I’ll check those. The engine has been run hot on a handful of occasions. Mowing on a 92+ degree day a few times and the exhaust getting clogged. As well as running with a bad transaxle for a month. I replaced the trans 2 years ago, but I imagine it would have a lasting effect?
I know these engines do not like running on hot days as it is.
Do you know what the correct compression is supposed to be? I thought valves were supposed to be set at .04-.06 on both intake and exhaust. But I could be wrong.


#6

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Set throttle to max. Do not choke it. Remove air cleaner. Spray about 1/2 second shot of starting fluid in the intake and try to start engine. If it doesn't fire and run for a couple seconds either spark, timing, valves or compression. If it fires and runs fir a couple seconds then fuel delivery problem. Fuel line, fuel pump, filter, carb or solenoid.


#7

V

VegetiveSteam

JRD1054Cub said:
This is a big help regardless.
I’ll check those. The engine has been run hot on a handful of occasions. Mowing on a 92+ degree day a few times and the exhaust getting clogged. As well as running with a bad transaxle for a month. I replaced the trans 2 years ago, but I imagine it would have a lasting effect?
I know these engines do not like running on hot days as it is.
Do you know what the correct compression is supposed to be? I thought valves were supposed to be set at .04-.06 on both intake and exhaust. But I could be wrong.
Click to expand...
Anything above 150 psi is good. If taken correctly and the engine is in good shape it could easily be 180. And .004 to .006 on clearance is correct.


#8

S

slomo

All those new parts will require testing of each and every one.

What you meant to say was you put all new "untested" parts on........

Were these Amazon or Ebay parts?


#9

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

slomo said:
All those new parts will require testing of each and every one.

What you meant to say was you put all new "untested" parts on........

Were these Amazon or Ebay parts?
Click to expand...
I generally don’t buy parts from Amazon. Strictly from small engine parts depot on eBay.


#10

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

Hammermechanicman said:
Set throttle to max. Do not choke it. Remove air cleaner. Spray about 1/2 second shot of starting fluid in the intake and try to start engine. If it doesn't fire and run for a couple seconds either spark, timing, valves or compression. If it fires and runs fir a couple seconds then fuel delivery problem. Fuel line, fuel pump, filter, carb or solenoid.
Click to expand...
I tried using spray already and nothing


#11

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub said:
I tried using spray already and nothing
JRD1054Cub said:
I generally don’t buy parts from Amazon. Strictly from small engine parts depot on eBay.
Click to expand...
I tried going the Amazon route before with a starter motor and a few little things here and there, and I’m not interested in buying cheap Chinese crap anymore. There’s a store around me called Marlboro mower that markets Kohler product. If they don’t have what I need, they’ll usually get it. Otherwise, it’s small engine parts depot. And he’s in the states.
Click to expand...


#12

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Original ignition coils?
Does it have good spark on both cylinders (jump 1/4" gap)?
Flywheel key intact?
Compression test?


#13

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

Hammermechanicman said:
Original ignition coils?
Does it have good spark on both cylinders (jump 1/4" gap)?
Flywheel key intact?
Compression test?
Click to expand...
Flywheel key and compression are next on the list. Good spark. Have never replaced ignition coils


#14

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

Hammermechanicman said:
Original ignition coils?
Does it have good spark on both cylinders (jump 1/4" gap)?
Flywheel key intact?
Compression test?
Click to expand...
Flywheel pulled. Key intact. No fractures. Nothing. (I was hoping this was the problem). Pulled rocker covers and discovered the top arm on the right valve set was very loose. Adjusted all 4 back to .005. Now when I turn the key, the starter engages, then I get a rapid clicking. Kinda like an electrical clicking sound. Tried again. 1 click this time then nothing. I hooked the battery up to my truck and tried to jumpstart. Same thing.
I just replaced the solenoid last month. The battery was replaced last year. Outside of chucking this thing at the dump, I’m at a loss and fresh out of ideas.


#15

V

VegetiveSteam

JRD1054Cub said:
Flywheel pulled. Key intact. No fractures. Nothing. (I was hoping this was the problem). Pulled rocker covers and discovered the top arm on the right valve set was very loose. Adjusted all 4 back to .005. Now when I turn the key, the starter engages, then I get a rapid clicking. Kinda like an electrical clicking sound. Tried again. 1 click this time then nothing. I hooked the battery up to my truck and tried to jumpstart. Same thing.
I just replaced the solenoid last month. The battery was replaced last year. Outside of chucking this thing at the dump, I’m at a loss and fresh out of ideas.
Click to expand...
Got a voltmeter? Set it to DC. Put the red lead on the starter post and the black lead to a good ground. Engage the starter and read the voltage. What does it read? Do the same thing on both sides of the starter solenoid and the small excite terminal at the solenoid. Are all the voltages similar and if so what are they?


#16

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

They’re all similar. Earlier in the day, the battery was reading the normal 12.6-13.3.
Came back to it just now and it’s reading 1.7-2.0. Damn near dead. Same at starter and solenoid.
But even with my truck jumping it, it was giving me a steady clicking. Suppose I could get a new battery, but I don’t think that will fix the problem


#17

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

First. Remove and clean both ends of the battery cables.

Check battery voltage. Approximately 12.6volts? If not charge battery.

Measure battery voltage while trying to crank engine. Less than 9 volts? Replace battery. Greater than 9 volts?


#18

V

VegetiveSteam

JRD1054Cub said:
They’re all similar. Earlier in the day, the battery was reading the normal 12.6-13.3.
Came back to it just now and it’s reading 1.7-2.0. Damn near dead. Same at starter and solenoid.
But even with my truck jumping it, it was giving me a steady clicking. Suppose I could get a new battery, but I don’t think that will fix the problem
Click to expand...
When you did your voltage tests where did you put the black lead of your voltmeter?


#19

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

A couple spots. The engine housing, chassis and foot rest. Just to be sure. All read the same. Between 1.7-2.0


#20

V

VegetiveSteam

JRD1054Cub said:
A couple spots. The engine housing, chassis and foot rest. Just to be sure. All read the same. Between 1.7-2.0
Click to expand...
Try going right to the negative terminal of the battery if possible. Every place you used still would run through the negative battery cable. Going straight to the negative terminal would eliminate the negative battery cable.


#21

JRD1054Cub

JRD1054Cub

Thank you all for the massive help you’ve been!
Mower is now back up and running like a champ! I have been working on mowers (at a personal level) for about 15 yrs or so. Dismantling, rebuilding, repairs etc… but electrical issues always stump me. My brain just isn’t wired to understand it. So to speak.
The MAIN issue appears to have been a bad battery. Got a new one yesterday and all is good. That being said, I still had a litany of other issues that have been fixed.
Valves were readjusted again. (Locking nut came loose on the right intake valve and it was super loose).
So, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!


Footer Links 1

Top