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Charge problem Honda 20HP engine

#1

mc_harley

mc_harley

Hi, I am mc_harley from the Netherlands and this is my first post here. My hobby is buying, repairing and selling sit on lawnmowers. I prefer Stiga Villa and Park frontmowers. But now I have a problem with a sit on mower with no brand. I only see 4422 and powered by Honda. Now I like to have some help from you.
I am working on this mower with a 20hp engine I got it starting, driving and running but not charging the battery. I have power on the white wire comming from the regulator/rectifier but when I connect this wire to the battery to charge the wire is getting so hot that the wireprotection is melting. Can someone tell me what is wrong here. I think the regulator/rectifier needs to be replaced or am I wrong?

thanx
mc_harley


#2

Fish

Fish

How many volts DC? The other 2 wires going up to the alt? unplug them and take an AC reading there too.


#3

mc_harley

mc_harley

How many volts DC? The other 2 wires going up to the alt? unplug them and take an AC reading there too.

Hi Gonzo,
the 2 wires comming from alt, I took one off and I read AC 22.5 to 7 DC 0.00 up to 0.10
1 took the other and I read also AC 22.5 to 7 DC 0.01 up to 0.03
When I take both wires off at same time I have 0 reading.

Then I took the white wire that has to be connected to the battery and also read AC 22,5 to 7 DC 0.00 up to 0.10 and sometimes just 0.00

I hope I did this right and you can help me.

Greetings,
mc_harley


#4

Fish

Fish

Take an AC reading by putting a lead on each wire coming from the alt, I don't know the numbers for Honda, but Kohler's alt's should read 28 vac or higher, if you have that, the alt should be OK. There are some Honda folks here, maybe they will chime in.


#5

jroske

jroske

Hi Gonzo,
the 2 wires comming from alt, I took one off and I read AC 22.5 to 7 DC 0.00 up to 0.10
1 took the other and I read also AC 22.5 to 7 DC 0.01 up to 0.03
When I take both wires off at same time I have 0 reading.

Then I took the white wire that has to be connected to the battery and also read AC 22,5 to 7 DC 0.00 up to 0.10 and sometimes just 0.00

I hope I did this right and you can help me.

Greetings,
mc_harley

Do you have the model and serial number of the motor?


#6

mc_harley

mc_harley

Do you have the model and serial number of the motor?

Hi Jroske,
Where I bought the Lawnmower he couldn't solve the problem but he wrote down a number like GJAD 1004299 QAF4 the model is GXV620. I just bought a new multimeter and trying to find out how it works. I think that the rectifier is dead. I had a spare from another 16hp motor and this one is dead too. I have a rectifier from a Briggs and Stratton, is it possible to connect this one to the wire coming from alt and see of this will work.

I found something else, the mowerdeck is connected with a PTO. There are 2 wires going to the PTO and between these two wires is a diode (blown up) but what is the reasen of that diode it is connected between pos. and neg.

Thanx
mc_harley


#7

robert@honda

robert@honda

The charge coil should measure 0.23-0.21 ohms (for the smaller 3A coil)
The larger 30A charge coil should measure 0.17 - 0.23 ohms.

Here's how to inspect / text the regulator/rectifier:

GXV610regulatorrectifierinspection_zps859f836b.jpg


Note the 3A type has 3 wires, while the 20A type has a 6-wire plug:

Hope this helps...


#8

mc_harley

mc_harley

Thanx Robert@Honda,

I don't have the multimeter you adviced. I used the UT109 and messured >| according your info but I only got a reading from ACG1 to Batt(W) 0,470 and the same from ACG2 to Batt(W) 0,470 everyting else is OL. For R , I didn't get any reading. This was the spare rectifier I used first.
The originel that was on the Honda had readings from every point but I could see on the backside that it was blown open. I didn't put the spare rectifier on the Honda yet but I try this tomorrow. Why is there a diode (this one is also blown up) on the PTO wires (+ |< - )? Normaly there is no diode.
Anyway thank you for your help.
Mc_harley


#9

mc_harley

mc_harley

I tested today the spare rectifier. Output alt. 2 wires one side 25.5 Vac the other side 28.5 Vac. Then I tried output dc and I get 10.5 and after a while 6.5. Wire didn't get hot anymore. Bud for charging the battery I think I need a new rectifier.
These thngs are expensive does anyone have a solution with a cheaper universal or maybe from a bike that I can use.
I want to thank everyone for his help for now.
I think the brand is Wikov Slavia 4422 (1998) by Wisconsin Engeneering. I cannot find a picture.

Greeting
mc_harley


#10

mc_harley

mc_harley

Last info!!
I bought a new rectifier and put it on the mower. (SH621A 12 with only 4 wires out against 6 wires out from the old rectifier (SH621 12) but it works fine Battery is charging 14,60 V and no wires are hot.
I think I will need you when I have my next problem that I cann't figure out.


#11

E

ekap1200

Hi Jroske,
Where I bought the Lawnmower he couldn't solve the problem but he wrote down a number like GJAD 1004299 QAF4 the model is GXV620. I just bought a new multimeter and trying to find out how it works. I think that the rectifier is dead. I had a spare from another 16hp motor and this one is dead too. I have a rectifier from a Briggs and Stratton, is it possible to connect this one to the wire coming from alt and see of this will work.

I found something else, the mowerdeck is connected with a PTO. There are 2 wires going to the PTO and between these two wires is a diode (blown up) but what is the reasen of that diode it is connected between pos. and neg.

Thanx
mc_harley

ON your issue with the PTO, The two wire's power a electromagnet , ( I am assuming ) The windings in the magnets coil will generate a very high Voltage when switched off and will ( whats known as a voltage spike ) damage other electronic equipment ( like your new regulator ) . The diode is there to short out only the reverse voltage spike. And is connected with its cathode end to the B+ to the coil and the anode to the B- side. If your not familiar with diode's this can be tested for proper connecting by the use of a ( mechanics test light ). It is just like a ( liquid check valve ) in operation . Any coil of wire is very simply an ignition coil when you think it through. Remove the power ( ie, points open ) and the magnetic field around the coil collapses and produce's a higher voltage than applied too. Hope this helps you understand this a bit more.


#12

mc_harley

mc_harley

Hi Ekap 1200,
Thanx for your info about the diode. This was what I wanted to know because my rectefier whas burned after this diode was blown up. The new rectifier is still working but I didnt connect the PTO yet. Because the diode was blown up I don't know what diode it was. How can I figure out what diode I should use for the blown one.

Mc_harley


#13

E

ekap1200

Hi Ekap 1200,
Thanx for your info about the diode. This was what I wanted to know because my rectefier whas burned after this diode was blown up. The new rectifier is still working but I didnt connect the PTO yet. Because the diode was blown up I don't know what diode it was. How can I figure out what diode I should use for the blown one.

Mc_harley

Hello from NJ USA. You can use a 1N4001 series diode , these are a common item in most electronics stores or online store. Now when you hook it up, have a test light handy if your not familiar with diode marking, with the test lamp connected to a good ground, find the B+ ( positive ) wire that will power the pto coil.. hold the end of the diode to that wire and with the test light to the opposite end of the diode, your light should ( not ) light up, if it does just reverse the diode and test again. Note how you have the diode when connected correctly. There will be a line around it on one end. No power is allowed to go through the diode when connected correctly. The high voltage spike is actually reverse polarity but that's what will kill other electronic components in the system. Any questions just post them and you will be a diode expert in no time. Gene


#14

mc_harley

mc_harley

Thanx Ekap1200,
I knew what side I had to place the diode to because there was still a peace on the blue (pos) wire and that was exactly like you wrote the other wire is brown and is connectet to ground. I just wasn't shure if the last owner knew that too because he was repairing the mower and quit after a while. So I bought some mess but now it works. The mowingdeck is the last thing I had to do.
Mc_harley (NL)


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