Have a Troy Built 2007 Red Horse 50in. lawnmower with a 23 hp BR & S. engine. Kinda/sorta "inherited" it.
Problem; Wants to start and run wide open. Have moved the linkage every way known to man & beast, still wants to run wide open.
TroyBilt 14AA80TP766 Big Red Horse (2007)--50 inch
#6
shadetree#1
I had the same problem with a Briggs twin recently.
I would make the static governor adjust per the manual and still wide open throttle.
The governor arm nut when snug would still allow the governor arm linkage to slip on the governor shaft coming out of the engine
Try taking a 1/4 inch drive RATCHET and snug up the nut after making the static governor adjust.
If that does not correct the issue, try holding the CARB throttle plate linkage at idle (instead of wide open) and then make the static gov adjust. If it still goes to full open throttle the governor may be bad or something amiss behind the throttle plate area. (Governor spring broken or disconnected behind the throttle linkage., etc)
When you start the engine you should FEEL by hand the governor arm try to pull the throttle towards closed DIRECTION. If you do not feel by hand the governor arm try to pull towards a closed throttle direction the governor itself is not operating or the arm is not tight on the shaft coming out of the engine.
Right now have the engine disassembled to the point that I'M trying to pull the crankshaft but one rod cap bolt is frozen and I have "rounded" the head very "nicely". So, I'm headed to Lowes for some special sockets.Am tearing it down initially to replace the governor shaft, bushings, seals,etc., But if I don't replace the crankshaft seals it's gonna leak.
Am going to "Dynamic Governor Adjustment" instead of the Static adjustment
but gonna need a tiny tach which I don't have.
Out of the manual';
Static Governor Adjustment
1. With governor lever nut loose, rotate governor control
swivel counter-clockwise as far as it will go (wide open
throttle) and hold in this position.
2. Rotate governor shaft clockwise as far it will go, Fig. 20.
a. Torque governor nut to 130 in. lbs. (15.0 Nm).
Fig. 20 − Adjust Governor
GOVERNOR
SHAFT
CONTROL
SWIVEL
Dynamic Governor Adjustment
ALL ADJUSTMENTS MUST BE MADE WITH AIR CLEANER
ASSEMBLY INSTALLED.
Assemble remote controls and check for proper adjustment.
The following tools are required when making governor
adjustments, Fig. 21:
1. Tachometer, Tool #19200 or #19389.
2. Tang bender, Tool #19480.
Start and run engine for approximately 5 minutes to allow
engine to warm up.
Fig
#9
StarTech
Just note crankshaft seals were replaceable without removing the crankshaft.
Also any inductive tachometer will work as long it is set to one spark per rev. Here I have used Tiny Tach II and now I using a Husqvarna/Echo tachometer. I like the Husqvarna tach as goes to sleep when not in use.
Dynamic adjustment is for fine tuning the govern speeds. Currently you are describing either a static adjust failure or governor failure but these is one least likely failure and that is the throttle vane(s) have came loose or missing completely.
As said you needed to operate the throttle vane assembly on the carburetor to see if it would had controlled the engine's speed before tearing down the engine. Once the static governor adjustment was done and the engine still raced and if you were able to control the speed by manual operating the throttle assembly then it was likely a governor failure. But now all this is out the window as you got get the engine back together before starting all over again.
The problem is if it exceeding the designed RPMs which can not be done by ear; although, there is a smart phone app for doing this via its onboard computer via the microphone. I don't how well this app works as I don't have a smart phone here.
"Just note crankshaft seals were replaceable without removing the crankshaft."
With a hammer and a cold chizel?
#13
shadetree#1
I would suggest you put the engine back together as is with a new sump gasket and PTO crank seal, look at the governor flyweights while you have the sump off and it will be readily apparent if they are not ok and if ok re-assemble the engine and do as StarTech says.
You do not need the tach for dynamic gov adjustments and those tools YET or maybe never. You normally make STATIC governor adjustments FIRST, then fine tune for dynamic gov adjust.
Also the upper crank seal is not likely to leak. The seals are also easily replaced with common tools and common sense without taking the engine apart.
Well, removed the flywheel crankshaft seal without removing the crankshaft. With a cold chisel and hammer without any damage. One of the rod cap bolt is damaged to the point that its going to take a special socket, which I don't have, to remove.
Am waiting on gov. parts, shaft, seal, bushings before the engine goes back together. Gov. gear and other related parts look good.
Now, I have been taking apart engines, small & large, probably before U were born. And if I don't have even a "modicum" of common sense at my age...well, I can forget it. I saw the first light of day in MARCH 1937...do the math.
#15
shadetree#1
srwa:
I apologize for that.
Keep a heads up when replacing seals now days, especially to lower sump crank seal. Several of the seals do not have the spring inside to hold the seals lips tight to the crank and will start leaking oil in short period of use.
These seals are being sold as Briggs but I suspect they are china clone seals.
I've removed the spring from the OEM seals if it's not damaged after being removed and installed it into the ones without the spring with good results.
AND yes some of them Briggs engines rod cap bolts are really tight and they also used locktite on some and the heads will round off even when using a good 6 point tight fitting wrench Sadness when that happens.
Bought most parts from; https://www.briggsstrattonstore.com/ which, come to find out, is not affiliated or part of Briggs & Straton. You're probably right about China made. Will check.
This is my first experience with a "small" engine where the throttle is connected to the govenor control. It has been an "education". Am still learning, why I'm on this forum.
Firmly believe the throttle should be connected to the carb. where it belongs.
