BVS 143 - What to do, rich running, horrible spark plug, constant misfiring

ilmiont

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  • / BVS 143 - What to do, rich running, horrible spark plug, constant misfiring
This is a continuation of sorts of my last thread from over a year ago.

My dad has a Tecumseh BVS 143 on a Mountfield Empress 16, we believe bought in the mid-80s. It gave very good service for about 30 years but missed several seasons over the past few years, predominantly because for a long time it was nigh on impossible to start, which several mechanics failed to resolve for any length of time.

Last year I committed to getting it running again as I've loved this mower through my childhood and it seems far too good to dispose of, as has come close to happening on a few occasions. Now, this year, I finally have a full toolkit so am able to do some work and implement suggestions.

With the help of this forum, we got it starting reliably - enthusiastically and every time. The hypothesis is excess oil always got into the cylinder on the car journey home from the various mechanics it went to, so it ran while away but performed poorly again at home. At least that's the explanation that appeals to me.

So we now have it starting although we do find there is a strange period of resistance - described in my older thread - when the cord will sometimes go completely stiff, and you end up yanking the mower off the ground. (The pull cord itself runs completely smoothly, the cord is new, and the mechanism has been sprayed with WD-40, so it is the engine/flywheel causing the tension.)

Now the problem is in running. It does run - it has done every cut of 2020 and 2021, but I believe it is running very rich with a constant misfire.

It has felt down on power, puffs blue smoke through tough patches of grass, and when increasing the throttle, and smells petrol-y in the air. Fuel has diminished at a rate far beyond what we think it used to use. I may be at fault as before really understanding the problem, or asking for help, I had already tried adjusting the mixture and idle screws, and now I really wish I'd left them alone. It's now set up per the Tecumseh operating instructions though, with the mixture screw tightened and backed off a turn and a half.

The running problems have got progressively worse until a few weeks ago when it was finally running really quite poorly and barely powerful enough to cut confidently.

This weekend I pulled the spark plug at last and found it absolutely disgusting. It was black and oily when it came out last year but went in reasonably clean. This year I am amazed it was still running, sadly I did not take a photo but there was hardened sludge all over it, even in the gap. I cleaned the plug as best I could and put it back in - I will be getting a new plug - and immediately it is running much better, of course, still puffing blue but not missing nearly so often.

Oil has been topped-up over the summer, Dad did it and I'm not sure what he added exactly, it has not been changed probably since 2019 when it was given a brief service by one of the mechanics. Oil has gone down again since it was topped-up and is maybe 2-3cm below the top of the filling hole now.

I wondered whether the flywheel key could be sheared and the culprit behind everything, so I got the flywheel nut off by jamming the blade against a wooden log. Am I correct in saying these photos suggest the flywheel key is in fact intact and not sheared? Do I need to take the flywheel off to confirm that? I do not have a knockoff tool yet.

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I'm not really sure what to do now to be honest, I feel like there's too many variables to address here and as I have no experience I'm not sure which is the best thing to focus on.

I will get it a new spark plug, and intend to change the oil in the coming weeks, but this is not going to address the root of the issue so far as I can see. I will buy a couple of plugs as it seems certain it's going to ruin another one until we get it running properly. I was truly astonished on Sunday when that plug came out, it was just black muck caked all over it.

Any help appreciated.

Many thanks!
 

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slomo

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  • / BVS 143 - What to do, rich running, horrible spark plug, constant misfiring
To me, a non expert on Tech engines, looks weird. Wide on the blower fan/flywheel and narrow on the crank. I think I can see the narrow groove on the crank. Looks to match the key from what I can tell??
and the mechanism has been sprayed with WD-40
That would be a no-no. That little oil in WD will attract dirt and grit wearing parts. If you have to, use silicone spray and wipe off excess.

Oil has been topped-up over the summer, Dad did it and I'm not sure what he added exactly, it has not been changed probably since 2019 when it was given a brief service by one of the mechanics. Oil has gone down again since it was topped-up and is a few cm below the top of the filling hole now.
Use SAE30 oil or what ever your manual calls for. Shy away from multi-grade oils. They shear down and you will see increased oil usage. A few CM??? Every mower engine needs the oil kept EXACTLY on the FULL MARK. Not over nor under at all times. Check the oil prior to every mowing. Only takes about 17 seconds. And that is getting MY glasses on to see the level LOL.

I don't know what carb this has. Does the oil smell like fuel? Sounds like an oil burner to me. Is the crankcase vent/baffle hose open? Air filter oily?

Hard pull starting sounds like possible hydro-locking from excess oil in the cylinder. Pull the head and check for a pile slash ton of carbon. That black carbon needs to be removed say every 5-8 years depending on hours mowed each year. This process is in every engine manual I know of. Also that excess carbon will break off and get between the piston and cylinder bore scoring it all up. This is where cylinder bores get scored up from. Clean behind the valves too.

Dump the oil. Maneuver the deck so the oil opening is at the lowest part for max oil removal. Refill with SAE30 oil on the FULL MARK. Run it with a fresh plug and clean air filter.
 

ilmiont

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  • / BVS 143 - What to do, rich running, horrible spark plug, constant misfiring
The key is fine.

Thank you - at least that's eliminated.

Every mower engine needs the oil kept EXACTLY on the FULL MARK. Not over nor under at all times. Check the oil prior to every mowing. Only takes about 17 seconds. And that is getting MY glasses on to see the level LOL.

Understood and well aware that's what's in the manual. It's maybe a couple of cms below to be clear, still well up in the dipstick thread.

Unfortunately - and while this is no excuse - the engine hasn't really been best looked up after but. To the best of our knowledge it was not until circa-2010 that it ever received a service at all (it was still running well at that point), when it finally returned to the place it was originally bought from; prior to that, Dad would just top the oil up, probably no more than once a season sad to say, and that was all the servicing it ever had.

It's only as I've become ever more interested in vehicles, engines, and maintenance that it's become apparent how well it did through the first 25 years of its life. Even if the impacts of that nonexistent servicing routine are starting to have an impact, it doesn't owe anyone anything. 10 hours would probably be a roughly correct estimate for the amount of work it does a year, we've not got much lawn but it gets a good 20-30 minutes running when it's used.

I don't know what carb this has. Does the oil smell like fuel? Sounds like an oil burner to me. Is the crankcase vent/baffle hose open? Air filter oily?

You've lost me at "crankcase vent/baffle" - where is it?

Oil filter is dry which is something else to resolve once it gets new oil, as Tecumseh service manual specifies a light film of oil should be applied.

Hard pull starting sounds like possible hydro-locking from excess oil in the cylinder. Pull the head and check for a pile slash ton of carbon. That black carbon needs to be removed say every 5-8 years depending on hours mowed each year. This process is in every engine manual I know of. Also that excess carbon will break off and get between the piston and cylinder bore scoring it all up. This is where cylinder bores get scored up from. Clean behind the valves too.

I'm afraid that again I'm not sure how I'd get the head off - I have seen the full service manual so will take a look.

As per the above, it runs maybe 10 hours a year. I very much doubt the head has ever been off.

I do suspect there is excess oil in the cylinder as that was certainly the case last year when it wouldn't start at all. The pull cord is at its worst (basically rigid) if trying to restart straight after running when the engine is hot, which I guess does imply oil-based hydro-locking.

Dump the oil. Maneuver the deck so the oil opening is at the lowest part for max oil removal. Refill with SAE30 oil on the FULL MARK. Run it with a fresh plug and clean air filter.

Yep thanks I'll get to it, planning to time it to coincide with a car oil change in a couple of weeks.

Service manual suggests it should have a 3/8" drain plug on the base so should be able to get everything out.
 

slomo

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  • / BVS 143 - What to do, rich running, horrible spark plug, constant misfiring
Service manual suggests it should have a 3/8" drain plug on the base so should be able to get everything out.
Or that.

If this has a foam air filter, better clean with dish soap and hot water. Let dry and saturate with SAE30 oil ONLY. Gently wring out in a red shop rag to remove excess oil.

I don't know exactly what you are working with. Post up some pictures here or a full walk around video on youtube.
 
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