I got a Tiller from a yard sale that had been sitting a while. Took out old gas, and put in fresh.. Put a new spark plug in (RC12YC), checked gap at .030". Won't start.. Checked spark and it looks good & strong. So sprayed starter fluid in and it revs/runs for a second or three, but won't run. Took off carb and sprayed it out real good with carb cleaner and all the jets seem to be open (squirt it in one place, and see it come out another). Bowl is filling with gas. Replaced gaskets and the needle valve seat in the carb. Compression seemed good sticking my finger over the spark plug hole, but ordered a tester to test it (arrives Tuesday). I took the valve cover off and the valves seem to be operating fine.
What's my next step? Just get one of the aftermarket carbs and try it? What else should I check? Is it possible for the timing to be off?
Briggs and Stratton 126312-0580-B8
Thanks!
#2
Fish
Go through the carb correctly, or replace it.
#3
Fish
Take back off the nut holding the bowl on the carb, and clean all of the tiny holes in the side/bottom of it, re-install.
See if it gets better.
#4
Scrubcadet10
And you generally won't get an accurate reading with a compression tester on most small engines since they have compression releases.
I did poke wire through all the holes I could in the carb.... except for the bowl nut, I only wiped it off.. Didn't know that had holes So will clean that out too and see what happens.
#6
Russ2251
And you generally won't get an accurate reading with a compression tester on most small engines since they have compression releases.
+2
The fact that engine started at all shows that compression is adequate.
In many decades of small engine shenanigans...I never needed a compression tester.
Cancel the order and get a refund.
Cancelled it about 10 mins ago.. Deer steaks are ready, so have to wait to try the bowl nut cleaning till the morning.. wife doesn't like me smelling like gas
That did the trick, started on second pull.. The side holes were clear, but the vertical one had something in it that I had to jam out with a piece of wire.
Thanks for the help!! Now I'm on to the main problem.. the tines won't engage..
#9
Scrubcadet10
Is it a troybilt tiller, Bronco?
#10
Fish
We'll have to have the tiller's model number to help on that.
It's a White Outdoors RT-412 near as I can tell. Model number is 21AA412A090, and this number is below that 4452770.
I'm trying to get more info on what is wrong. When I had the engine going it would go forward/reverse, but couldn't get the tines to engage. Didn't try that hard though. So took a bunch off parts off to get to the tranny to see if there was a place to put in oil, or grease, and nothing.. But now that it's half apart when I rotate the flywheel by hand I can get it in Fwd/Rev and get the tines spinning (and wheels rotate as well). So have a call out to the old owner to get the low down on what was wrong.. I've had the thing for a year now and forgot what he said...
Yeah, but got the whole thing for $25 & can prob sell the engine alone for that. Hopefully I can fix it as I need a tiller..
So he said that it keeps popping out of gear when tilling.. it also won't go into neutral where you can push it with the engine not running (wheels are locked up). So engine off, wheels won't rotate. Engine on, and forward and reverse work, tines will apparently work, but pops out of gear, and in neutral the tiller can't be moved (without dragging it).
I have the whole Illustrated Parts Breakdown so going to open it up and see what there is to see.
So doing some googling.. seems like the Shift Assembly, detent ball, and compression spring are common parts that need replaced to fix 'not staying in gear while tilling'.. not sure if that has anything to do with the neutral issue... Have to wait till I get it apart.
So will clean that out too and see what happens.