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Looking into possibly rebuilding a 190cc quantum engine? Am I wasting my time with these aluminum blocks? I looked online and can't seem to source a shortblock part# or verify if parts will swap over. Can't even seem to find the date code? Engine is off a 2006 SR4. Thought about trying a 7/8in SB and swapping over the crank? Thoughts? Any help would be highly appreciated. Thank you!

Engine
124T02-0203-b1
25mm x 3-5/32" shaft 1/4in keyway

skyline0964 said:

Looking into possibly rebuilding a 190cc quantum engine? Am I wasting my time with these aluminum blocks? I looked online and can't seem to source a shortblock part# or verify if parts will swap over. Can't even seem to find the date code? Engine is off a 2006 SR4. Thought about trying a 7/8in SB and swapping over the crank? Thoughts? Any help would be highly appreciated. Thank you!

Engine
124T02-0203-b1
25mm x 3-5/32" shaft 1/4in keyway

Click to expand...

Unless you want the experience and expense, it would be a hard no. Try to find a good used one maybe.

Short Block PN 799985. IF still available. Several sites are listing it as NLA. And both my distributors no longer provide accurate price files.

The following site lists the SB but the site may not be up to date. Also list all the engines it fits.


Also these are possible complete engine replacement with the correct sized PTO end. Just wont have the 7/16 tapped hole.

I am curious how you made out? Did you proceed with the engine rebuild or did you repower with an other engine? I am in the same or similar situation right now and if I can get a decent Connecting rod and piston at a good price I would prefer to rebuild but having trouble finding parts at a reasonable price. Inflation and likely supply chain issues are real in this sector of the economy.

skyline0964 said:

Looking into possibly rebuilding a 190cc quantum engine? Am I wasting my time with these aluminum blocks? I looked online and can't seem to source a shortblock part# or verify if parts will swap over. Can't even seem to find the date code? Engine is off a 2006 SR4. Thought about trying a 7/8in SB and swapping over the crank? Thoughts? Any help would be highly appreciated. Thank you!

Engine
124T02-0203-b1
25mm x 3-5/32" shaft 1/4in keyway

Click to expand...

How much play is in the piston when installed in the cylinder?

Is the cylinder scored badly?

Parts show to be available, but they are expensive.

Parts Tree:

There is no perceivable play in the piston. If I have it apart I usually like to replace the rings on an older engine. If not too expensive.

You can grab a ton of cheap pushers off facetrash marketplace. Either use the entire mower or rob the engine off one.

slomo said:

You can grab a ton of cheap pushers off facetrash marketplace. Either use the entire mower or rob the engine off one.

Click to expand...

yep.

Scrubcadet10 said:

yep.

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Yes , but you have to match the original Crank shaft or at least get it close and have the correct blade adaptor. Not impossible but it makes it a little harder than most think.

Forget trying to rebuild.

slomo said:

Forget trying to rebuild.

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That is the business answer. Not everything on here is about business. Sometimes people want to do something to learn or just for the experience. Personally I have done things I know are going to cost me more just to learn more about a particular engine. I have taken junk engines apart just to understand how they are designed and put together. I did not get paid to do any of that. Said differently, I could have done other things and made more money. It was for my own personal education to improve my knowledge. Sometimes that is priceless.

There is a difference that must be considered as a business we do charge for our labor where an individual doesn't have to pay someone to do the work. As a business we normally have tools on hand for rebuilds [normally they are used multiple times] where as an individual would have buy them them for an one time rebuild and then they are useless.

So all costs must be considered and sometimes it just make more sense to just to replace the complete engine. And some equipment it just as cost effective to replace the whole unit.

Hi nbpt100,

I support your determination and tenacity to see this project through. Most of us with any length of experience doing this kind of work sometimes take for granted that we were once in the same position... But times and economics have changed dramatically.

Parts have become intentionally very expensive and quality along with availability have diminished greatly. Most of these newer engine designs were never intended to be repaired because they were designed with a short lifespan in mind like any other commodity item.

Even many of the new B&S engines come with a sticker that states "no oil change required, just add oil as needed". They do not even have a drain plug on them. If anyone wants to change the oil, they have to suction it out.

Auto Doc's said:

Hi nbpt100,

I support your determination and tenacity to see this project through. Most of us with any length of experience doing this kind of work sometimes take for granted that we were once in the same position... But times and economics have changed dramatically.

Parts have become intentionally very expensive and quality along with availability have diminished greatly. Most of these newer engine designs were never intended to be repaired because they were designed with a short lifespan in mind like any other commodity item.

Even many of the new B&S engines come with a sticker that states "no oil change required, just add oil as needed". They do not even have a drain plug on them. If anyone wants to change the oil, they have to suction it out.

Click to expand...

All true. The manuals will tell you to turn the mower on its side to drain the oil through the fill tube. Often, if there is a drain plug it is hard to access due to other parts under the engine. For the past 15 years, if there is a drain plug, I still turn the mower on its side to drain the oil. I find that easier. No tools required and effective on most engines. The Honda GCV160 and Briggs Sprint Engine without the oil tube extension is a mess doing it that way. But they are fewer to come by. Suctioning it out is better but not everyone has that available. Eliminating the drain plug is actually a cost savings I am good with. The no oil change Engines are a Briggs marketing gimmick that has been discussed beyond worth repeating. Change the oil as you normally would. If you do so, and take reasonable good care of your mower it can still last decades. Not to say it won't need any repairs. But it is still often worth making a repair. I have seen home owners abandoning otherwise good working mowers because a cable froze, dirty carb or a rope broke. They assume the rest of the mower is junk and it is not worth fixing based on its age or some surface rust. So they go out and spend $600 on a battery mower. Often warped logic.
I am not intimidated by the cheapening of the industry. I find it frustrating, but I still want to learn and will invest in my knowledge and broaden my experience in certain areas. Somethings I throw out but I still find some things are worth the effort to repair when most would walk. Because of that, I have customers who come back.

Hi N,

I am a semi- retired mechanical technician and have slowly become the "Mr. Fix It" around my area thanks to the reckless economy.