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Hey everyone! I live in Matthews, NC and we just got hit with an F1 tornado. Power has been, as such, knocked out. It isn’t expected to be restored for at least 2 days. In the mean time I cranked up my old Coleman generator, it’s a small one just enough to run a fridge and charge some devices. It leaks gas and when it’s off because it’s missing a float bowl gasket, but so long as it’s on we’re good . Anyway, my neighbors are in the same situation and I went with them today to a thrift shop, where I knew they had some equipment. We picked up a 2400 watt generator with a Briggs flathead for 70 bucks, allegedly working. It is very Jerry rigged, the engine being secured by zip ties. However for 70 bucks it’s hard to beat.

Unfortunately it wouldn’t start. Quickly realized that there was gas in it that had gone bad. Dumped it, tried again. Nothing. There is spark and compression. Took off the pulsa jet carb and checked it out. The upper reservoir was filthy. Cleaned it, and put in fresh gas up there too. After that, I coaxed it into starting and running for a few minutes (after I put some gas in the intake as well, but not so much that it was only running off that for the few minutes). After it died I took it back apart and the reservoir had drained down a lot. This leads me to believe the pulsa jet isn’t working. Checked out the diaphragm and spring. Spring is springy and the diagram wasn’t hard or anything, but the check valves did look frayed around the edges. The uptake from the main fuel tank is not blocked, I can blow air up through it.

So is my problem with the diaphragm? Or is there a blocked passage? I suspect the diaphragm since it runs until that upper reservoir is drained, but a port could be blocked too i suppose? Any thoughts? I appreciate it.

p.s. I have posted the same thing on a few different websites, not because I’m impatient or trying to be annoying, but because the temperature here is supposed to drop to 20 and we’re trying to get a space heater running. Sorry if I bother anybody, though I doubt anyone will notice

Those diaphragms seem to be problem number one on those motors. I'd run down to the nearest place and get a new one and replace the old. Pretty simple carbs, the diaphragm is most of the carb.

You need a new fuel pump diaphragm kit.

tom3 said:

Those diaphragms seem to be problem number one on those motors. I'd run down to the nearest place and get a new one and replace the old. Pretty simple carbs, the diaphragm is most of the carb.

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I’ll try that first. Considering it looks frayed and the gas had went bad In it that’s probably the issue. I hope.

Before putting everything back together, make sure that both pickup tubes are clear. This manual might be of some help. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00

Rivets said:

Before putting everything back together, make sure that both pickup tubes are clear. This manual might be of some help. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00

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I check them for being clear by blowing into the tubes. This proves effective, although its probably shortening my lifespan and makes my mouth sore.

Today I went down to my local power equipment store, and sure enough, they had a diaphragm! I put it in, and got it to run for about 30 minutes. So the fuel pump is working. Then It died again. Gunk had gotten into the jet. Cleaned it and put it back together. Ran again for a while, then the same thing happened. Cleaned it out again, only this time it wanted 2/3 choke to run nicely. Then it died yet again, presumably from dirt. Gas was not gone. I think this means I should probably blast out all the ports of the carb really well with some cleaner, since it keeps clogging.

The thing is, when it was only running at 2/3, before I had put it together I had checked the ports. The tank uptake, jet, diaphragm cover, and in/out ports were all clear. So I don't know why it was running more poorly. I also don't know where all the dirt is coming from since the tank uptake has a screen on it. Its missing the bottom gasket, so I guess I need to replace that, but shockingly it doesn't leak. Anyway, I guess I'll just keep running it, cleaning it, etc. until it keeps working.

Did you check the gas tank for rust? Deoending on when made can have a big chunk of yellow mesh in the tank that can get old and start crumbling.
What is the engine model and code numbers?

Not sure on this exact model but you can get a tank and carb assembly on ebay for around $25 or less. Might save a bunch of aggravation.

tom3 said:

Not sure on this exact model but you can get a tank and carb assembly on ebay for around $25 or less. Might save a bunch of aggravation.

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I need a tank assy for briggs 5hp on an old 2400watt generator right now to replace a rusty one. You got a link to that 25 dollar tank? Tks

Oops. I did say tank on that didn't I. Might cost a bit more for that tank, like $100 more.

That kinda what i thought

Hammermechanicman said:

I need a tank assy for briggs 5hp on an old 2400watt generator right now to replace a rusty one. You got a link to that 25 dollar tank? Tks

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Any chance it’s a generac? Mines also a 2400 watt hooked to a 5 horse L head Briggs. Tank didn’t seem too awful but I didn’t inspect thoroughly. Will do soon. That shouldn’t be what’s clogging the carb though because there’s a filter on the pick up

If the metal tank is rusting the pickup screen won't stop it all. The one i have needing a tank is pretty old. It was a freebie. I have a 2500 watt Coleman with a 5hp L flat head briggs. Had to remove the yellow mesh as it was deteriorating. I have saved a tank using a product from eastwood just for lining rusty tanks. A little expensive but it works.

If you can fit a fuel filter in the line somewhere, one that you can see through, that would help to see what's actually going to the carb.
With a rusty tank, the you probably won't be able to see the where it's getting clogged. But you'll be able to remove the fuel line, and blow back up into the tank (gas cap off), and clear it up for a little until the gas runs out. Then remove the gas fitting from the tank and drain it again.

I had an old coffee pot I used to use for this. Where I'd use a coffee filter to pour the dirty gas into, that drips into a clean container. This allowed me to see what was coming out of the tank.
Remember, a magnet will still pick up rusty steal.

Being that you may not have time or access to all the new parts you may need. BTW, some small engine shops have used parts. Check with them to see if they have a good used tank.

There is no conventional fuel line on the 5hp flathead briggs. Fuel is pumped into a cup in the fuel tank and that acts as the float bowl.

Thanks everyone! I've determined that the issue is with the pickup tube finding every tiny piece of dirt in the tank. It keeps clogging. Hopefully at some point it will get the last of the dirt and stop clogging. The pump and everything else is working quite well. Starts on 2 pulls.

TylerFrankel1 said:

check them for being clear by blowing into the tubes. This proves effective, although its probably shortening my lifespan and makes my mouth sore.

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Wait............does it really???

Well Logert it does only if you not drink gasoline regularly. Most of us don't as it is hazardous.

TylerFrankel1 said:

Thanks everyone! I've determined that the issue is with the pickup tube finding every tiny piece of dirt in the tank. It keeps clogging. Hopefully at some point it will get the last of the dirt and stop clogging. The pump and everything else is working quite well. Starts on 2 pulls.

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If it is rust you may be fighting a losing battle. You can remove the tank and put a big handful of machine nuts in it and shake it for a few minutes or put it in a vibratory cleaner to shake it then rinse it out a half dozen times and hope you get the loose rust out.

StarTech said:

Well Logert it does only if you not drink gasoline regularly. Most of us don't as it is hazardous.

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so even just a little bit of gas touching your lips will hurt you.........?

Hammermechanicman said:

If it is rust you may be fighting a losing battle. You can remove the tank and put a big handful of machine nuts in it and shake it for a few minutes or put it in a vibratory cleaner to shake it then rinse it out a half dozen times and hope you get the loose rust out.

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The problem with that is that the 3 qt tanks have plastic inserts and sometimes even a section of foam to prevent sloshing fuel.

Most those engines are old enough the yellow mesh is deteriorating. I pull it out of anything that comes in with it. They will run fine without it. Go cart racers never needed it to stop fuel slosh.

Just a thought, if it is a pulsa-jet carb, directly mounted on the tank, you may have an air leak between the carb and the tank. This would not allow the pump to work properly, pulling up the fuel into the tank reservoir. If the gasket doesn’t seal, as a last resort I’ve sealed the area outside the carb, with a gas resistant silicone sealer.

logert gogert said:

so even just a little bit of gas touching your lips will hurt you.........?

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I don't think so... hope not, cuz it's a weekly occurrence for me. Can't be worse than dipping I suppose.

StarTech said:

The problem with that is that the 3 qt tanks have plastic inserts and sometimes even a section of foam to prevent sloshing fuel.

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Mine does have the stupid plastic insert. I can't imagine why fuel sloshing matters. I don't know how I would remove it though, because the filler hole is a smidgen smaller than the plastic piece.

Rivets said:

Just a thought, if it is a pulsa-jet carb, directly mounted on the tank, you may have an air leak between the carb and the tank. This would not allow the pump to work properly, pulling up the fuel into the tank reservoir. If the gasket doesn’t seal, as a last resort I’ve sealed the area outside the carb, with a gas resistant silicone sealer.

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I made a cork gasket, which is quite thick, and it seems to be allowing it to work now.