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Model # 135202
type# 0145
Code# 93040627
Thanks for your help with this one. I haven't had the pleasure of dissembling the recoil starter on this machine....
The starter cord broke right at the knot so I removed it and tied another knot and reinstalled. One of the pawls that facilitate the starter fell out of the retract mechanism when reassembling to the motor. These are steel pawls and spring is intact. The engine is on a roto tiller and looks top be fairly large...at least 5 hp although I don't know the hp
I am unable to reinsert the pawl and spring.
Do I the need to disassemble the mechanism to get this back in or should I just get another assembly? The new assemblies are plastic and this one is mostly steel.
See below for more info and thanks for your help
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...s/Model-135202-0237-01/1245/1503500/10041530/
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...5/1503500/10041530/00003?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Recoil Starter 497830 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

By removing bolt 597 you should be able to refit the pawl (rachett) and not interfere with the spring.

EngineMan said:

By removing bolt 597 you should be able to refit the pawl (rachett) and not interfere with the spring.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help.

Hold that thought!
Unfortunately, the engine I have is not built quite like that. I have no idea why but there is no bolt. There is a piece of cold rolled steel holding the assembly together with a flare on one end.
I will post pictures tonight or tomorrow.

You have this type then, use a pair of mole grips or the like to pull and close part 101, it should be like a roll split pin.

EngineMan said:

You have this type then, use a pair of mole grips or the like to pull and close part 101, it should be like a roll split pin.

Click to expand...

Yes I think you are exactly right.
See below.....



YOU CAN SEE THE PAWL RESTING ON THE TOP OF THE RETRACT MECH.



so you are telling me the only way to get the pawl back where it belongs is to dissemble the mechanism by bending the flare at the end of the cold rolled pin....correct?
I suppose I will give it a try but I'm not sure how to re-flare the end so that it will accommodate the pawl with out binding.

Buy a new starter....

Fish said:

Buy a new starter....

Click to expand...

yea...that's what I'm thinkin. I found this one...should work eh?\
Amazon.com: Briggs & Stratton 497830 Rewind Starter Replaces 496650, 495766, 692696: Patio, Lawn & Garden

No you don't need to damage the flare end, you just grip and twist it out.

Fish said:

Buy a new starter....

Click to expand...

Yes you can go the easy way and just buy a replacement, but I am a MECHANIC and not just a FITTER...!

Ouch!!!!!!

So, as a mechanic, you would just "slip the pawl back in"?

And that is a good repair that a "Mechanic" would do?

No a good mechanic would dis-assemble it completely, and clean and replace all of the worn parts so the part functioned as
it was meant to.

The most likely worn out spot on that starter is the pockets where the pawls ride, which would require you to replace the plastic pulley, which is only sold with the spring, and on this outdated model costs @ $25, as that starter is no longer made,
replaced by the model with the bolt in the middle instead of the roll pin.

Now you can buy the new starter for $21.15 and just bolt it on and be done, or totally disassemble everything and buy a
new pulley/spring for @25$, what would "an intelligent mechanic" do????????

OEM Parts

Here is one on e-bay
Recoil Rewind Pull Starter Briggs Stratton 135202 135212 135232 135237 Engines | eBay

Heck, your local shop probably has one on the shop for about that price.

Fish said:

So, as a mechanic, you would just "slip the pawl back in"?

And that is a good repair that a "Mechanic" would do?

No a good mechanic would dis-assemble it completely, and clean and replace all of the worn parts so the part functioned as
it was meant to.

The most likely worn out spot on that starter is the pockets where the pawls ride, which would require you to replace the plastic pulley, which is only sold with the spring, and on this outdated model costs @ $25, as that starter is no longer made,
replaced by the model with the bolt in the middle instead of the roll pin.

Now you can buy the new starter for $21.15 and just bolt it on and be done, or totally disassemble everything and buy a
new pulley/spring for @25$, what would "an intelligent mechanic" do????????

OEM Parts

Click to expand...

I did not say "slip the pawl back in"

yes a good mechanic would disassemble it completely and repair or replace any parts that need to be done, ( yes a good mechanic ) not a store's boy who would just say "Buy a new starter.... " what's the point in posted that up. now am out of here.

RobertBrown said:

Model # 135202
type# 0145
Code# 93040627
I am unable to reinsert the pawl and spring.
Do I the need to disassemble the mechanism to get this back in or should I just get another assembly?

Recoil Starter 497830 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

Click to expand...

Hence, my response...... Buy a new starter......










Why would you disassemble this starter? The pulley/spring itself costs almost as much as the whole replacement starter?




But I knew this already, you still don't.........

Sometimes parts replacement is better than rebuilding. I think about it this way the original piece lasted how many years of unknown abuse. How many years would a brand new last.

Flip side the car mechanic shop down the road I kinda don't like him anymore he is absolutely no good at diagnostics... He's a parts replacer that's all he does I had a fuel pump replaced because I didn't wanna do it and he couldn't diagnose it.... He had taken it somewhere else to get a test on it..... Even after I dropped it off I told him it was fuel pump. I've heard from other people he just throws parts at cars unfilled its fixed than sends them the bill. So no I don't think he's a mechanic he's a parts replacer who has Google telling bin what to do.

Yes, and it also depends on what kind of shop that you are working for. Big shop owners frown upon a tech diddling with a $30 part, when the shop labor rate is $80, especially if there is a likelihood of the repair coming back.

Also certain situations have to be learned by doing them wrong the first time, or listening to someone who has been there.

Like a Kohler starter, the type with the solenoid on top. The solenoid is defective, but you should replace the whole starter.
Why, because the solenoid by itself is just a few dollars less than the whole starter/solenoid.

Or certain Stihl saws and trimmers with Zama carbs, rebuild or replace the carb? Most times anymore, just replace the carb.
Why, because the whole carb sells for just a little more than the Zama kit.

UPDATE

Since I really needed to use this tiller this weekend.....

I decided to use the information given to me by engineman and attempt to compress the pin holding the assembly together, enabling me to remove the bits preventing me from reinstalling the pawl. I quickly learned the following:



The hollow pin is not a split pin.

It has a split on one end only to facilitate the flare at business end that holds the assembly together. the flare is part of the assembly process and it's dis-assembly is not impossible, it's highly unlikely that it can be done without some specialized tolls that I don't own or have any knowledge of.
As far any reassembly.......beyond the realm of possibly with the tools that I have, and I have a lot.
As far as I'm concerned...on this machine
This part is not serviceable....it must be replaced.
I just spent an hour discovering this. I'm just a little bit smarter now.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to help out a member.

Fish! You were right, and thanks for the link to the part on ebay. It's may intention to order same this afternoon.

I just picked a quick one off of e-bay, I am not recommending it.. Like I said this morning, your local mower shop likely has one on the shelf for roughly the same price, but they usually close early on Sat. Heck, Lowes or Tractor Supply might even have it.

That is the one thing I found about sales in the Spring, the customer really wants the part/fix today, as they work for a living, and days off are rare, and they want to be tilling/mowing today!!!!

Fish said:

I just picked a quick one off of e-bay, I am not recommending it..

Click to expand...

Is it the correct one or not?
It was the same as the one I researched on Amazon only cheaper.
I just ordered it before you posted.

Yeah, it should be the same.. They didn't make many/any variations. Let me know, It will be ok, some of these e-bay posters will sell them cheaper that I can buy them for, I don't know how they do it.......

Fish said:

as they work for a living, and days off are rare, and they want to be tilling/mowing today!!!!

Click to expand...

Here where I live, in a subtropical climate, the grass can gown really fast during the rainy season. Since it rains a lot, sometimes everyday, your opportunities to mow become limited and valuable. If you miss a weekend you could easily go 2-3 weeks without mowing and then it's a major undertaking for someone with a an engine under 20hp. I never cut wet grass, so I'm cutting in the afternoon or late morning during the weekend.
St Augustine grass must not be allowed to go to seed or your lawn is going to be screwed ( I keep a Bahia lawn).

That's why my mower has a 4 cylinder diesel rated at 35 hp and can cut 60 inches at a time. I don't know how high the grass would have to be to slow it down :thumbsup:.