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I hope someone can point me in the right direction. I have a 900 Intek series 205cc (122012 0 140 B8) motor that I believe has broken the crank inside the case. It did not have a catastrophic failure; it was running fine. I shut it off and went to start it, and there was a clunking noise when I pulled to start it. I have not pulled it apart yet, but the output can be held in place when pulling on the cord, and the shaft has visible up-and-down play.
My options;
If it is not damaged inside I could replace the crank, it has about one inch of 7/8 diameter and then tapers up to 1 inch (pic attached). The tapered ones I have found online have threads where it is 7/8, does anyone know what the part number for my crank is?

Agrifab has a replacement motor for about $500 shipped but do not want to spend that much on something that gets 10 hours of use per year. I have had no luck finding a used one online or another brand that will work (assuming others have this output design).

I have an unused Honda clone with a 1-inch straight shaft, Agrifab said all their impellers are tapered, I found several other brands that are keyed, but also cost several hundred dollars. If I can find a capable shop I have considered having my impeller machined out and fitted with a key slot.

I have seen Predator motors on Agrifab vacs but do not know how they did it, I do not believe any of these motors have a tapered shaft (is there an adapter?)

Looking for recommendations as my knowledge of small engines is minimal, thanks for looking.

Replacement crankshaft is 797076 which is currently on the Briggs distributor backorder list. The shortblock and replacement engine have been discontinued. Funny thing is I just dealt with trying to find a replacement engine for another independent dealer for this exact engine about 2 weeks ago.

Crankshaft don't normally break. It is the piston connecting that tends to break from lack of oiling. When this happens there is lot aluminum transfer to crankshaft rod journal. This simply removed using Muriatic Acid.

Now I would suggest a disassembly and check for damages and if no major damage then clean the crankshaft and replace the broken rod and other parts.

Now the replacement engine was the 12S402-0028-F8 which has been superseded to 15T212-0008-F8.

Now it is to note that Muriatic Acid can be dangerous if used especially indoors as humidity will cause it to produce dangerous fumes that can take your breathe away. Otherwords serious precautions must be used or it can do some serious health damages. Also these fumes can damage to other close by tools and equipment.

StarTech said:

Now the replacement engine was the 12S402-0028-F8 which has been superseded to 15T212-0008-F8.

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Which is also showing NLA.

Tnx IL, my distributor price files here lately are not fully up to date which is a major complaint I have with them. I'll supersede the PN to NOS level.

Gardner files are junk and now RBI files are none existent too. I have no idea of what in the heck is going other than they are just so dang lazy or plain out of it lately. If things get any worst I probably just shut down the business due all this stupidity. I depend accurate info to run the business. The last price files I load are already out of date as the prices don't even match the current prices. Its BS to have go online everytime to quote a repair. And what worst is that the Gardner online prices are not even the price I get charged for the parts at times.

At least Rotary and Stens are still providing good files.

I have to have these file up to date as there is over 1.4 million part numbers on my system currently which a third or more have been superseded. Some that are no longer available must keep as I could still have them in stock under NOS level sooo pricing is still necessary.

What worst is when I ask for explanation from these distributors all I get is crickets chirping. No one wants to do their job.

Star I agree that this industry is a collision course to a full crash and burn. OEM's are slow walking out of business. Like I have said before I am just buying my time until retirement. And I suspect I won't have to leave the business. I feel that over the next few short years all dealer support will be non-existent because parts will either be complete component changes or NLA.

And something that you may want to watch with the part supercessions. Sometimes parts will supercede to an incorrect parts after several part number changes. Or in the case of bolts sometimes the original bolt will be SAE thread but they will supercede to a new part number and that part will have metric threads. Or in some cases part numbers get recycled to a new part unrelated to the old part, which can play havoc with superceding information.

Yes I have seen some superseding info to be wrong here too lately. I put all that blame right at the feet of the OEMs. They are the ones that are the main control this information. Now some of the suppliers are also at fault too.

As hardware such screws and nuts I usually check before ordering if one my hardware carries them and order in bulk. When I do I add the alternate info to my system so when I do a part search of my system the in stock alternate(s) are shown.

I just completed a gas powered jack hammer repair that when it was sold no parts were available as it came from China.

And agree our industry is on the way out like the electronic repairs went away with the introduction of the SMTs. Now if you can even find a complete circuit board you are very lucky. Instead of us reducing our waste we are creating even more everyday.

Thanks for

ILENGINE said:

Replacement crankshaft is 797076 which is currently on the Briggs distributor backorder list. The shortblock and replacement engine have been discontinued. Funny thing is I just dealt with trying to find a replacement engine for another independent dealer for this exact engine about 2 weeks ago.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply and the part number, AgriFab said they have a replacement motor for $400 plus $50 for shipping but that's more than I want to spend. Luckily I have until next season to figure it out.

StarTech said:

Crankshaft don't normally break. It is the piston connecting that tends to break from lack of oiling. When this happens there is lot aluminum transfer to crankshaft rod journal. This simply removed using Muriatic Acid.

Now I would suggest a disassembly and check for damages and if no major damage then clean the crankshaft and replace the broken rod and other parts.

Now the replacement engine was the 12S402-0028-F8 which has been superseded to 15T212-0008-F8.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply I can almost guarantee the crank broke, output will spin until I stop it with my hand and the other side is still turning. There were maybe 5 hours on the oil and has never used any, I'm assuming it's a splash system the level is correct and the lot is relatively flat so little chance of starvation. I will hopefully have time tomorrow to pull the side off and I will post a picture of what I find.

StarTech said:

Crankshaft don't normally break. It is the piston connecting that tends to break from lack of oiling. When this happens there is lot aluminum transfer to crankshaft rod journal. This simply removed using Muriatic Acid.

Now I would suggest a disassembly and check for damages and if no major damage then clean the crankshaft and replace the broken rod and other parts.

Now the replacement engine was the 12S402-0028-F8 which has been superseded to 15T212-0008-F8.

Click to expand...

Well, it was the crank that broke. I'm guessing it let go when it was shut down. There is no other damage; it looks like the only metal (no aluminum) in the case is from pulling the cord. Do you have any thoughts on what would cause it to break like this? seems like an odd pattern.

Weld it back on.

Clean the weld area. Grind away to clean fresh metal. Have it TIG or MIG'ed up. Grind away any welding slag and polish her up. Lots of tacks to control metal warpage. Good welder can fix this. This is a low RPM mower type engine.

Reinstall it. Rotate it in some lube checking for out of roundness with a dial indicator. All of this is way cheaper than some $500 replacement.

Take it to your local vo-tech or high school welding class. Probably get it done for free. Worth a free phone call or two.