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Hello, I wonder if you might be able to help please? I am in the process of bringing back to life a Briggs and Stratton Intek Edge 6hp that is fitted to a McCulloch self drive mower. I got it second hand and apart from the inevitable rust on the deck it seemed pretty good. Winter is coming so I've took the chance to give it a bit of maintenance whilst its resting. So all good until I replaced the carb because the previous owner had stripped the threads on the filter. All fitted but despite me connecting the governor, new spring and original throttle plate there now appears to be no movement of the carb when I move the throttle plate back and forth. The replacement carb is pretty much the same but this one has a choke built in. The spring I replaced is exactly the same length and I have looked at various linkage diagrams and all appears correct. I have removed the governor rod and spring and there is no connection between where the remote throttle control fits to the control plate and the carb itself? The model appears to be quite a rare one as far as parts go and little sign of other people having worked on them. The model is 121602-0321 and the carb is listed as a 790120 however there appears some confusion with this as some have primer hole to filter on the left and some right. Mine has the primer built into the air filter housing which evidentially is an issue in itself, having air leakage problems. The other type of carb (with the same number??) has the choke built into the carb body. Any help I would gladly appreciate. I could attempt pictures but my computer skills are somewhat lacking so be patient with me please.

Please note: B&S OEM Carburetor above.

Did you learn anything about buying Amazon carbs?

How much money did you really save?

Recommend either take it to a good mower shop or clean the OEM carb yourself. I bet the entire machine needs some love. Look at youtube on carb cleaning.

Do you have good fuel flow AT the carb inlet? Drain the entire tank into a glass jar. Make sure it flows like a river. You can pour it back into the tank through a paint strainer.

what is your code number?
121602-0321 "xx"?
should be two digits, usually a letter and number after the 0321.

Scrubcadet10 said:

what is your code number?
121602-0321 "xx"?
should be two digits, usually a letter and number after the 0321.

Click to expand...

Thanks all. Two digits are E1. Quick to jump to conclusions Slomo when in fact I DID NOT buy what you refer to as "Amazon carbs". Also please read my thread correctly and see that the threads were stripped on the carb so cleaning it wouldn't have made the slightest difference to the OEM carb. I have obviously checked the fuel flow and ruled that out as a reason why the replacement carb does not operate when everything else is connected as before?????

slomo said:

Did you learn anything about buying Amazon carbs?

How much money did you really save?

Recommend either take it to a good mower shop or clean the OEM carb yourself. I bet the entire machine needs some love. Look at youtube on carb cleaning.

Do you have good fuel flow AT the carb inlet? Drain the entire tank into a glass jar. Make sure it flows like a river. You can pour it back into the tank through a paint strainer.

Click to expand...

My bad. Was thinking about another posting. I should of taken my medicine.

Fair play, held your hands up, so respect Slomo. I'm still holding out for someone who might be able to offer their knowledge. Just out of curiosity, is it likely to be an issue if i use a carb with choke on a system which has originally been designed to run with a primer bulb incorporated into the air filter? Do i need to isolate the primer and block off the air vent? I am guessing I do. This particular motor appears to be OEM set up for either system depending on the mowers manufacturer. Is the air filter going to be of a similar size to cope with either set up? I believe the choke carb uses a rectangular filter where mine uses the oval. This might also help alleviate any issues associated with the leaking gasket between carb and filter which appears to be a common problem?

If the original carb was working fine according to your OP, why wouldn't you just retap the threads for slightly bigger screws? You could also add teflon tape to the screws to make them fit. Seems like a lot of unnecessary work to replace a working carb because the filter screws were stripped. Sometimes you have to get creative working on older machines. JMHO.

So what side is the primer hole on, on your original carburetor?

Been there tried that. Not a lot of meat on carb or the air filter housing to take much bigger thread so i managed to get two nuts behind damaged area and jb welded them in. I took the carb apart so nothing untoward would happen whilst i was working on it and did proper clean up of internals. The carb prior to all this was showing signs of an issue fuel wise hence which is why it was a good time for the overhaul., but having opened it all up and found the stripped screws I think it was this that was the issue. I've just picked up a Hayter ranger engine which is almost identical to mine according to the seller however he neglected to mention he was selling carb separately but at least i'll be able to look at the throttle plate to see if anything is out of shape on mine. Strange thing is, the carb linkage holes are exactly in the same place on both the OEM and the aftermarket and I can't think for the life of me why it is that the carb shutter doesn't move at all when I operate the throttle mechanism and like I said initially it makes no difference whether the governor and spring are attached or not??? Thanks though for the input and like you make it sound, it was an obvious choice earlier on in this situation.

Scrubcadet10 said:

So what side is the primer hole on, on your original carburetor?

Click to expand...

Just tried to add images but it says too big so back to the drawing board. The primer hole on the original carb is top left (as you look at engine with filter removed) The replacement is the same. It does appear most are on the opposite side. Primer on filter is on left too.

It don't suppose move it would at max throttle due to slight governor spring tension. Once the engine running then the air vane will move the throttle plate (butterfly) vane to a governed speed that you select via the throttle control. The governor spring goes from the governor link which is attached to the carb and throttle control

As for reduce the pixel count to 1000 x 1000 or less and retry.

As air filter base primer hole there should be a channel along the bottom edge forming a cross over which is why you have a gasket there. Also if this base does like the other style does they warp in this area and then requires a modify gasket assy or or new air filter base.

grim1 said:

Fair play, held your hands up, so respect Slomo. I'm still holding out for someone who might be able to offer their knowledge. Just out of curiosity, is it likely to be an issue if i use a carb with choke on a system which has originally been designed to run with a primer bulb incorporated into the air filter? Do i need to isolate the primer and block off the air vent? I am guessing I do. This particular motor appears to be OEM set up for either system depending on the mowers manufacturer. Is the air filter going to be of a similar size to cope with either set up? I believe the choke carb uses a rectangular filter where mine uses the oval. This might also help alleviate any issues associated with the leaking gasket between carb and filter which appears to be a common problem?

Click to expand...

Carb for carb, if the only difference is a choke plate, I don't see an issue. Just run a simple choke cable is all. Now if the jetting is different.......

Now i'm really confused. There is no air vane. The governor lever runs directly from the engine casing by a wire link onto the carb off a preformed ring which also attached is a spring that connects to the throttle plate. The throttle cable attaches to the same plate at a different point. There is also no channel in the air filter base, just a hole that lines up with the carb and obviously gasket hole too. The carbs on both ends are identical to the OEM. I can't get my head around how I am supposed to set the governor if It doesn't move the carb shutter to full throttle or do I ignore the shutter on the carb and just go by the throttle plate? I also can't see how I can start the machine when I have no control over the carb. I am thinking there is something entirely ridiculous I am missing here. I have had a lot of small machine engines pass through my hands and have never been stumped by something like this.

Pictures and youtube videos help us a lot to assist you. Read up on resizing images or put up a youtube video and link it here.

slomo said:

Carb for carb, if the only difference is a choke plate, I don't see an issue. Just run a simple choke cable is all. Now if the jetting is different.......

Click to expand...

Yeah I feel fairly sure about the choke set up and I'm just going to use that with the lever it came with. Cables are a pain in the A£%& and just something else to go wrong. I'm a keep things simple kind of guy which reflects my intellect exactly. I'm not even going to consider the jetting at this point.

And finally we have pictures. Can't exactly explain how I did it but it was something to do with windows 11, photos, right click image, resize, change size to 1000 as advised by Star Tech (thank you) and hopefully bingo. Everyone got that?As you might notice I have no pictures of the OEM carb because I stripped it to clean and somehow have managed to mix my parts bin up. And yes, I take a lot of tablets for my condition(s). Apologies if the pictures are no use at all but I have tried my best today. The throttle plate in pic 1 is how it sits against the inlet (with gaskets/spacers etc) NO.2 and 3 are self explanatory and no.4 is what happens when you get beyond your capabilities too quickly. I have found a parts diagram for my particular engine on Briggsbits and I will attempt to get it on here if required however it does not explain much except that I am missing no parts. Thanks gents.(and ladies if any are interested or even care).

Mine is 222c and I am using 209a spring which is new.

I've never seen a carburetor with the primer hole and choke. But I don't see a reason why that carburetor shouldn't work properly.

Hello and good afternoon to you. I am still trying to get my head around this machine. What I can tell you is this. I have contacted Briggsbits in the hope their technical might be able to help me locate the issue but they never got back to me after I emailed them photos at their request. No matter what I do, the control cable does not move the carb throttle. I have checked and re checked my linkages as per the few others I have been able find and the part numbers match mine too. I just get the feeling I am missing something very obvious here. As luck would have it, or not, I actually have another intek engine a similar size on a masport mower but unfortunately this one has the air vane auto choke on it so isn't much use to me. To remind, I have the primer type with no choke and no air vane which should be very easy to fix but no it isn't happening. The mower will fire up first go without an issue but I have no control of the engine remotely which is a pain because this mower has self drive too. I've checked the control plate above the governor and that moves fine when I use the remote cable but there is no connection to the carb except the governor spring which in turn connects to the governor rod and goes back to the governor arm. The spring is also brand new. One thing I did notice which may or may not be useful to know is that when the governor arm is moved the tension on its spring changes very little and that part of the control plate moves more side to side than forward and back? Please guys its driving me crazy!